wallacebob

I recently took my Scout into dealer, first time ever! They had contacted me, there is a ecu update, FOC. On dropping the car off, first question was “have you had any chipping done?” , if so, then no update. After the emissions scandal, they are being very cautious.

Just as an update to my spring replacement last year: all good. Handling is great after 4 wheel alignment, sag has gone, and towing a caravan much improved. Brilliant advice on here as always. I’ll be keeping my Scout for a few more years now!

I ordered these : Sachs 992103 matches OEM part number 5Q0511115AN https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/5q0511115an?search=OEN+5Q0511115AN&supplier[0]=32 and was very pleased with Autodoc service. Springs are to the spec discussed above. I fitted them last week, following the guides that are available on Youtube , etc. Just search for golf mk7 or all track. I did the job with axle stands and a trolley jack, and it was reasonable easy to get it all back together. I recommend clean all the bolt threads before disassembly to ease things up. The ride height is pretty similar un-loaded, but huge improvement when loaded - no sag. Definitely firmer on the rear, but I can tolerate that. I think handling is a bit sharper too, but I will get 4 wheel alignment done again soon to check things are OK. I still haven't towed yet, but I'm very pleased so far. For just over £100 it's great value too. Many thanks for all the advice.

Don't know if this may help; independent alignment in Dec 2020 on my Scout 2015. I try to get my cars done very year as I tow, and drive on some sh*te roads.

My Scout is 2016, with latest Haldex; no changeable filter, but easy to clean. You can hear the pump running, if you want to lie under the rear in this weather! If yours has not had filter change/clean and fresh fluid it must be overdue by now. Easy job, I’m lucky as Edinburgh has good VAG independent specialist garages: non-Skoda.

I can't believe the info: fantastic! I'l spend my lock down Saturday night reading through it all with a glass of something. I checked spring today, it's 5Q0511115 AL, and 12.5 mm thickness, the softer of the three options. Label still attached. The only colour dot was a single yellow one. So, I may try to get 2 x AN or equivalent to stiffen things up. Many thanks.

Excellent; I’ll get the wheel off tomorrow for a look and measure the springs.

Thanks for useful info, any place I can see parts for rear springs and shocks?

Thanks for the info: it does confuse me! This is the sticker in my boot, where will I find the build codes?

I have always thought my rear suspension a little soft when towing or even with a full tank. I fitted rubber assisters and this has helped hugely but I would like a little more permanent solution. How can I tell if springs such as these - https://www.autodoc.co.uk/lesjofors/9735347 are heavier duty? It does say for towing. Would fitting new shocks (Bilstein B6?) help as well? I suppose crawling under to see what shocks I have, and what springs I have may a good idea anyway? I think there is a paint code on springs to guide me?

I have Michelin CC, and didn't like them to start with either wet or dry, but after 25% wear they improved to give decent grip in all conditions. Very good life span, but prone to punctures (very strange). Need to replace this year, and tempted by Goodyear Vectors, but had bad experience of Goodyears on my Honda CRV - terrible tyres.

I recently replaced my coupling on Scout Mk3 65k miles. I have had a "thrumming" noise when car is loaded, and checked coupling. There were several "cracks", so DIY job from Autodoc - £200. I have to say I may have wasted money, as the new unit has cracks too! The construction is such that there are slits in the rubber I assume to allow a degree of flex. Time will tell, but the noise/vibration is still there. If you have no issues, I would be tempted to leave it alone. Changing Haldex fluid/clean filter and diff oil is probably more important. I am now moving my diagnosis to the rear drive shafts...........

Good to know I saved £100 by DIY at start of November. I might reward myself at Xmas! Definitely needed the Haldex system today: “ thunder snow” , all working very well. Need new tyres tho’

Worth checking if cleaning throttle body and crankcase vent would solve the fault codes. EGR is a bit of a “catch-all “ for these problems. My valve kept jamming, few hours work sorted it for free.

or even better, here's the link on here.........

Sorry, I can't find the link to where I saw the Audi fix for this. BUT it is very obvious when you remove the pipe from the exhaust, loosen the flange, remove the venturi and clean it there is a small notch, just file one on the opposite side (180 degrees) to allow the flange to fit with the outlet facing towards the engine. Should have photographed it. Found the PDF I used, see pages 9-10 Throttle body clean V3.pdf

Sorry, I can't find the link to where I saw the Audi fix for this. BUT it is very obvious when you remove the pipe from the exhaust, loosen the flange, remove the venturi and clean it there is a small notch, just file one on the opposite side (180 degrees) to allow the flange to fit with the outlet facing towards the engine. Should have photographed it.

Yes, fuel average is now 50mpg. I always use proper VW spec low ash oil at changes, and did long motorway runs for work; that's maybe how I got away with it for so long! Now my wife runs this car, so shorter journeys.

As I'm currently isolating I decided a Haldex oil change was probably overdue, and I had no excuses. 2016 Scout 60k miles, with Gen 5 haldex. I always change my own engine oil and filters, but unless I had found the info on here , I wouldn't have known of the Haldex oil and filter issues. I do use my Scout on gravel roads, grass and snow, so I knew the system was working, but didn't want a needless breakdown. I ordered the kit from haldexrepairs.co.uk, and at £46.30 inc delivery I think thats good. All you need, including syringe. I used ramps and found access easy. The guides on here and a couple of Youtube vids (search for vw alltrack gives good USA vids) showed me the way. If you can change engine oil, then Haldex oil is well within a DIY job, only needs a few hex and torx keys, plus ice cream tub. I removed the control unit to give me enough slack cable to remove pump, as getting fat fingers to the connection was impossible. My filter was truly clogged up, with fibrous gunk. Cleaned, and refitted with new seals. Refilling is easy with syringe. A quick prime of the pump, a run round car park in 4x4 mode, top up again, and its done. The oil in the kit is just enough to do the job. I will change it again in 20k miles and see if there is a difference then. Thanks again to the people on here for their good work. Saved me other garage bill!

Firstly, many thanks to the posters on here and elsewhere who have documented the EGR issues, and solutions. My 2010 2.0 110 Yeti 130k miles started showing the management light and some times heater plug light. Car always drove very fine, but this is MOT fail. It started to go into limp mode occasionally, so I thought the end was near. Garage quoted £1k to scare me, but did diagnose EGR "failure". I followed the advice on removal and cleaning, including reversing exhaust gas pipe orientation. Four very oily hours later I had finished. Lots of white spirit and toothbrush. My wife was astonished car even ran! The flap valve was not able to open or close fully, causing the management lights. Car passed MOT, low emissions, runs fantastic. No Cost. Car even did a regen, which it hadn't done for ages. Now, several months and 100s miles later, all is still good. Just goes to show a DIY fix is sometimes more than good enough.