Jojo1985g

I also have a diesel VRS with the CEGA engine. I had the EA189 software fix. My car is mostly used for city driving at present due to being on furlough. I get between 200 and 250 miles between the car doing an active regeneration (slightly raised rpm at idle, no dpf light on the dash) I have ran the car on premium diesel ever since I've owned it. I think 200/250 for active regeneration is about right.

Thanks for this, did you use a spray can or a brush. Do you have any pictures of your finished result? I am going to use a wire brush attachment on my drill. Thanks

It should tell you in your owners manual whether it needs to be VW 502/ VW 504 etc. From my knowledge it must meet either of those specifications depending on your engine size and whether you have a petrol or diesel engine. My car is also a FL so can check my book if you let us know whether you have a petrol or diesel engine.

Hoping for a bit of advice from you all. I'm looking to paint my winter steels once I put my alloys back on. The advice I'm looking for is the best paint to use for this process. I'm going to paint them black (they're currently silver but rather rusty looking as per picture below) but need your experience in what brand/type of paint to use. I have just bought the caddy centre caps. Thanks

I also like carista. You can do a lot with it. It's not quite as good value as it used to be but still worth it.

Hi Hoping someone will be able to assist me. My friend (not currently a member) has just purchased a 06 MK2 petrol VRS, I believe the engine code is BWA but could be wrong It looks like it's still got the original factory exhaust, unfortunately there's a hole in the exhaust that has evidence of being patched in the past. We are both struggling to find a replacement middle and rear section of exhaust for this particular model. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated, whether it's part numbers or links to a reasonable priced exhaust. I'm going to try TPS when they open.

Yes the FL headlights come out fairly easy. Undo the clamping nut, press down the locking lever and pull the lock slide out. Then the whole unit slides out, it doesn't look easy to undo the lead though.

Not had a chance to try yet weather not been great.

I second pikpilot suggestion of carista. The basic version is free which should show what bulb has blown. You need a carista compatible reader though.

Thanks tilt, I'll give that a try.

Does anyone know if the Octavia 2 headlights can be separated in order to clean the inside of the projectors. My headlights don't seem as good as they used to be, I have put brand new osram nightbreaker lasers in with no change. I have used the osram nightbreaker bulbs since I've owned the car and the headlights have always been really good, it could be the new style of bulb causing the issues but wanted to rule out the projector lenses being dirty if at all possible. What other high performance halogens have you all tried? I don't fancy LEDs I know the canbus in the VRS is quite difficult to bypass. Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks

https://www.wheelfitment.eu/ This is a great website for checking what wheels are compatible with your car

It's entirely your choice, it's something you're going to have to do anyway (assuming you're keeping the car for the next few years). Check some local independent VW garages and compare the prices, when I got mine done the Indy was only £5 cheaper but only after I showed them Skoda prices he was willing to knock a little off, before he saw Skoda price he wanted £499. I see no harm in changing early especially if it saves you some cash. The timescales are advisory and no way a guarantee, which I found out the hard way many years ago.

So just found my receipt for when this was done. It was £484.99 for cam belt and water pump which is a big difference to today's prices.

I bought one of these, it doesn't allow you to change tracks using stereo but as the OP has stated his soliton didn't either. This device has a built in mic and connect's through the aux input. I've had it a few weeks now and only charged it once which was when I bought it. Call volume playback is a little low but acceptable. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00O8GASEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_MeM3FbXBSYHWY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I find the system works quite well on my car FL VRS. I fitted my winter wheels set the pressure then decided to swap fronts for rears as rears had a bit more tread. At the time I had 2.2 bar front and 2.3 bar rear. After driving for a short while the TPMS flagged an issue as it noticed the pressure was different to what it was expecting. So it's able to detect even a small change in pressure.

I got my Diesel cam belt and water pump done in 2017 at a main dealer for £529 I think. So based on the prices given above the cost has only increased by £20 in three years.

I don't think the trim levels make a difference to the boot look part numbers. When I bought mine there were 2 available but Skoda were able to tell me the correct part number for my car. Good luck hope you get it all sorted

It only took me about an hour to change the lock over. The trim needs a firm but gentle pull to remove start from the piece closest to the lock and work your way round to the middle then repeat for the other side if needed. The lock is held in by torx head bolts. Think they were T30/T40.

Did the boot compartment lights work before you swapped the tailgate over? You could try swapping the lock mechanism from the old tailgate to the replacement one. There are 4 pins inside the lock mechanism and if one fails it can affect the lights not working. The lock on the replacement tailgate could be faulty. Mine didn't work at all nor did I get the open warning on the dash. Replaced the lock mechanism with a brand new Skoda original part and everything is working fine now.

Did the replacement tailgate come from the same year of car? Check the part numbers on the boot lock mechanism and see if they match, if not swap the old boot look into the new boot lid. I recently had similar issues to yourself whereby I had no boot lights nor did I have a boot open indication. Got a replacement lock mechanism from Hortons Skoda online think it was about £40. Swapped it out. Everything works fine now. Just need to remove the boot lid panels which just pull off but be gentle. If I remember correctly the lock is screwed in using 2 torx head bolts which I believe to be T30/T40. Then the wiring plug should just pull out.

When my local garage changed my battery for me. He told me to leave the engine running whilst he changed the battery over. So I didn't loose any radio settings etc. Not sure if that's safe or not but it did not cause me any issues.

Reply to my own comment as I now have managed to get some pictures of my dome lights. The first 2 pictures that look blue are in the rear. The other 4 are front. The LED in the middle is the same for both front and rear it's Festoon led which was in my previous car's number plate.

Considering you have a FL LEDs for exterior won't work with the canbus system from my experience. I use osram nightbreakers in my H7 dipped beam, haven't touched the H1 main beam at all. Interior dome lights are just 501s and 239s, I have LEDs for front and rear dome. I will post some pics next time I'm out at the car at night. From memory I'm sure I have ring LEDs, bought them year's ago and no longer have the packaging.

I have a MK2 FL VRS and not been able to find LEDs for the 501 wedges in the rear. The holders and openings are quite small, so you will need similar sized bulbs and bases to the original I found some LEDs that stated they were canbus compatible but the car threw a bulb out warning. The bulbs fit the boot lights so they are in there now.