Torbo

I have a question... Do anyone have a electrical schema that shows where the two small leeds go from the generator? I´m thinking to use one I have extra in an Old Volvo ti get more effect so I can use lights in the middle of the day? One goes to the battery, The hose have ground, but I should have one for start it - DF+.... My be one is D- and shall go to ground? Manual or other tips?

Thanks!

Thanks! Thanks!

Does some one know where I can find tips on changing cambelt on Octavia 1,9 D? Do I find a manual here? Info, tools, specc. and so on?

Both i gasoline. The freewheel is to save fuel, theoretical. Some says less wear on drive belt, also. May be 0,0001 l/mile? I do not believe in Santa Claus or VAG.

I have fixet pully in one of my Fabias. I dont need freewheel!

Changed the steering sensor and -pump. Not necessary to remove the bumper! Easy... 4 wheel bearing pads, tube and so on. Now the car is like new The steering is smooth fast and good! 100 %

The valve guides must also be changed. I fit that last year, and the guides locks very bad. I was thinking of ti make som new, but i bought 6 new, since I think it will hold for another 100 000 km, but not more.

He is always around! He like cars:

I had to adjust the cylinder height on my 1.4 Mpi-engine. I shimmed up under the cylinders so I get 0,10-0,15 mm higher than the engine block. Like this in a Renault-engine. Picture 2 FAbia engine. picture 3. My Renault cylinder. picture 4 new cylinders on my Fabia before honing.. One of the old one had crack. picture 5

Well, I got some light on the dashboard. The little indicator will work for me, and for EU-control, I think.

Thanks! I did not understand whats wrong?

To day I make an new warning light for main beam. A 3 mm blue LED connecter to two Zenerdiodes on 5 volt X 2, to take avay 10 volt. In eerie I also put a resistor on 1000 Ohm so the Led warning light is glowing a little on 12,5 volt an a little more at 14,5 volt. (effect: 0,0006 W) I will put the little light right under the instrument. But the rear door is worse...

Thanks! What a job! ? It can't be the main lock switsh i front door on driver side? A connector loose? The contact in B pillar looks good...

36 mm twelve edges i front. 30 mm twelve edges rear. The rear bearing can be greased. Mine was dry. If I greased them for some years ago they have been good still I think? It is not necessary to take the driveshaft out - only in the bearing not at the gearbox. Save time. New ABS -sensors is may be a good idea? I bought all new. Changed one...

The handle is ok, but the central lock is on, and the wire is on. I think it is the micro switch? lite this:

I also think the lock hook make trouble, but if I can swing the door better out, its may be more easy to take the inner panel off?

You need special tools. http://pmmonline.co.uk/technical/wheel-bearing-replacement-skoda-fabia/ The tool have to modify so it not destry the ABS-sensor. I had to take more iron off with a grinder, on the tool so the inner part dond crash with the sensor. Else you have to change the sensor, go take it our first. The problem i that the sensors can brake when you try that. I hav changed tree i to cars, and now Im waiting for rear bearing. Thats easy, only a nut in rear.

New copper tube is in place now. Do any know if it is possible to take the door out with loosen the nuts on B pillar? Trouble to get the inner part of the door with the door closed.

I was waiting for brake parts. brake tube then I saw it lacquer brake fluid on the floor. Took off the brake pipe and found corrosion! Checked on the other side too, but there was the tube ok. Also changed a brake hose.

May be heck the brake pipes? I had to change on the left rear, and brake tube to.

Thanks! Not a good idea to change then!? I will put av blue led in the senter of the dashboard instead. two zener diodes in serie to get 11,5 volt , and the diode in the end. Hope that will work. But now I have door problem - the side door of passenger will not open! Is it a idea to disconnect the wires in B-pillar and try manually?

New problem! The left rear side door will not open! No chanse! I tried everything to day! Checked the contacts and they was on place...

I can get en new speedometer/ instrument panel for 20 pound. Good price, but du I have to program right milage on it after changing, or is the right km in the main computer?

I don't think the pant have some affect, but I will take the paint off anyway. New cylinders and pads/band will also come on. Ha have new sensors but I think I use the old one? About the blue light on dashboard I will use a 5 mm led lamp and a zenerdiode i serie and put it on the lithe plate just under the instrument, 5 cm from the glass (instrument unit) aganínst the steering wheel. Get zenerdiodes yesterday. The old ble led lamp has allways light very strong, so I always think it was a bad product? To morrow I will by a steering pump - TRW from a little lysed car. 90 000 km on speedometer. Hope this will fix the warning lamp on dashboard? So the car is nearly new soon! Yesterday I get some sylinderheads til Volvo PV /Duett. I will fix an sell. In the winter I sold two separate sylinderheads and two engines ovehaled (renewed) with valve seals on. That isn't original, so the engines not use oil after this. Another engine Im working on will now get a 285 degrees camshaft fixed 1,5 and 3 degrees (on crank) forward and better compression, from 8,7:1 to 9,5:1. Cant make more here since set 98 octane gasoline is not i sale many places. Two SU carburetor so I hope this will work. The owner shall drive som rally - in Monte Carlo and some other places. about 25 more horsepower, an higher torque. This is the eccect of setting the cam forward: It don't loco much, but the present is good. The green an purple curves will work I think?