bob32123

Yeh that was me mate. I was going to view it next time I was in London but it’s a quiet week and haven’t been down that way. Congrats on the purchase, all the best.

Changed everything I can think of on the side I can hear the noise. It’s had new driveshaft complete in addition to the items I’ve listed and I’m out of ideas to be honest. I’m gonna jack the car up again tomorrow and double check tightening torques plus double check caliper and pads but I’ve never encountered a problem like this ever. No patients in the boot, I checked 🤣

Yeti just went over 500,000 miles on the M1 on my way home from London to Llandudno. (Yeti 170 2.0 tdi) Work for the ambulance authority transporting people all over the country, hence the high miles. Gotta say it’s been brilliant in the nearly ten years of ownership. Obviously it’s had the regular service items like a couple of clutches, 2 EGR valves, new brakes and calipers all round and regular oil services every 10,000 miles. I did buy a 2017 EA288 2.0 tdi a couple of years back but it turned out to be a nightmare of epic proportions. The NOX sensor packed up, the ADBLUE system failed, the DPF blocked and the EGR valve failed. The inlet manifold blocked solid and the car was continuously in limp mode. I paid 12k for the car and ended up giving it away to webuyanycar for £2,500. Anyhow back to the 170. I have a knocking noise coming from the front left corner. Have changed strut top, shock absorber, brake pads and discs, ARB drop links. The ARB bushes are fine, it’s been on a ramp in a garage, all bushes are intact, no play in ANYTHING. Top and bottom ball joints are solid, wheel bearing fine. Any ideas out there ? My mechanic is stumped for an answer like myself.

Any tech out there that can recommend the best fluid to fill my transfer case on 2017 Yeti 150 ? I’ve just upgraded from my old 2010 170 Yeti and don’t want to get it wrong. I have to hand some Febi Bilstein 21829 75w90 but not sure if it’s only for the gearbox. Does it have to be fully synthetic ? Thanks. Bob

Sorry for late reply. Cheers for that, you were absolutely correct. It’s GL4 for the gearbox and GL5 for the diff and transfer case. All the best. Bob

The caliper carrier is probably one of the hardest items to remove on the Yeti. My garage had mine on the ramp and still couldn’t release them even with a long bar. It’s insane that Skoda designed them like this. Brake discs are a service item for goodness sake ! To make matters worse for me, the offside rear wheel bearing has cried enough and the rear hub nuts refuse to shift even after concentrating a Firemaster Torch with Ver Map gas on it for 15 minutes solid. Looks like I’m going to have to scrap the rear hubs and driveshafts and replace the lot.

Can anyone confirm that 75w90 oil viscosity is good for gearbox, transfer box and diff on a 2017 Yeti 2.0 150ps ? Thanks. Bob

Front wipers stopped working. Diagnostic comes up with code 0153. No power to motor. Bonnet latch sensor works fine so not cutting off circuit. Checked all fuses, all fine. Must be a wire failure somewhere. Anybody had a similar issue? Yeti 2.0 170 year 2010. Mileage 372,000. Thanks.