ddan1275

Thanks, would you advise using a none VW supplied brand? I've always stuck with the quantum and longlife brands from the dealer with good results having spent many years in the past using cheaper branded oils and getting poor results, especially on motorbikes where the wear was noticed a lot sooner.

@Breezy_PeteHi, What does 507 rating mean so i can have a look online? We don't have any Skoda dealers locally and the only VW dealers put their rate up from £35 to £65 and blamed covid like everything. @Paws4Thot Sorry about the caps, it should be clear from the sentence I wasn't shouting, I just didn't know how to change all text to lower case again on a mac. Whats tracking cluff?

I'M LOOKING TO DO AN ENGINE OIL CHANGE ON MY 170 SUPERB MK2 DIESEL. I'VE ALWAYS USED QUANTUM/LONGLIFE 5W - 30, BUT THERE SEEMS SO MANY THESE DAYS. THE CAR HAS A DPF FITTED, WOULD THE FOLLOWING OIL BE OK TO USE. PRICES RANGE FROM £32 TO £60, I'VE ALWAYS PAID AROUND £35 SO WANT TO STICK AROUND THAT PRICE MARK? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165443720590?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1Z6qtdXYIR4WVzK3jbrMdeQ62&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-166974-033325-9&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=165443720590&targetid=2208394625501&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1007225&poi=&campaignid=20281616098&mkgroupid=151151452460&rlsatarget=pla-2208394625501&abcId=9314340&merchantid=116623035&gclid=CjwKCAjw69moBhBgEiwAUFCx2MQkTyYSGQpalYv9hIrwXXA9sjNJAemU8Z-XtUgiOy5z_blg8kSMuBoC5n4QAvD_BwE

Correct.

Update for others. Fuses next to the drivers door all ok. Plugged in new and old fans with engine running and disconnected the plug with the red and black wires. I have power at the harness. When the harness is connected to the old fan, if i disconnect the 2 wire plug that connects the module to the fan, im getting 13.85V at my module supply the fan. So my fans dead. The new ebay identical look unit plugged in only has 11.8V at the module and the new fan doesnt work. Ive plugged the new fan connector into my original old module and everything works. So the ebay fan unit either has a dodgy connection or its not compatible because the part number 3C0 907 521 F which is the module part number was missing from the advert despite the seller saying it matches all my codes when asked. The code 1K2820015G applies to the fan unit. Ive asked the seller for a partial refund and will hopefully swap over my original module to the new fan. Maybe purchasing ebay item 2 for £75 was the correct one. As mines dual climate control model and this new fan has the metal heat sync unit on it that was the standout difference between dual climte and standard air con models. Would be nice to know if its the wrong model or if i have a faulty module but I'm not great with electrics.

So i checked with the sender from the cheaper of the two and its arrived but doesnt work. I now dont know if this is because of the unit sent isn't compatible, or if its because i have another fault which i dont know where to start with that. I could order the other fan which matched more of the codes. I thought having the visible metal heat sink part would be the correct dual climate model unless they all have this? My own failed fan is so stiff compared to the new one even after spraying it. Genuine model on the left.

Yeah I've gave it a spray and plugged it back in and it done nothing. I'm not sure how free it should be but theres still resistance in the fan it doesn't rotate on its own. The rear demister is now working apart from the rear side glass on both sides for no reason. The more expensive of the two fans has both numbers from my own fan displayed on their advert where as the cheaper of the two only has one of the codes.

Looking for some parts advice please. Ive only just removed this now, managed to find 2 on ebay but unsure if theyll be the correct one for my dual climate control model superb estate diesel. Both links have the same codes showing as my parts if im looking correctly. But they are £25 price difference with delivery. Euro parts was dpuble them prices. See links and photos. The £53.49 link has a matching code of 1K2820015G The £70 link has the 3C0 907 521 F Both have the metal heat sink part attached. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383644361317?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=eo3flM5cSvO&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=ik-l4TyNR9m&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155281654077?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=rmxY6GIRSX-&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=ik-l4TyNR9m&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Where these for a new one or used? Dual climate control? I've not had chance to do it with the cold weather so looking to sort it soon.

Thanks, I'm going to take a look at it next weekend in some day light. The £140 was for the fan unit from Europarts not fitted. I read that it's a 20 minute swap over thats why i was asking about location. I'm going to keep an eye on the rear demister, it seemed to work the other day so it could the connection or wire could be breaking down as you say. I'll post back when I get a look at the fan asap.

its an estate, i was told you access it from under the bonnet by the passenger footwell? £140 for a new one

Thanks for that. Yes your assumptions are correct, the dual climate control. I've checked all of the fuses on the drivers side door panel and all seem to be ok so I'm assuming it's the fan unit itself under the bonnet which people say is common. The rear window demister I will monitor, it seemed to be working better the following day. Not sure why it was just one side, maybe the connections are getting corroded, the rear wiper motor needs replaced so when I do that I'll clean them.

I have a 2010 TDI elegance and yesterday the blower stopped working on for the front window. The console turns on and you can hear it opening the vents but no blower. Today I've noticed the rear window is only slightly demisting from one side partially but never fully demisting the window over a 20 mile journey, it looks like partial heat transfer from one side to the other. Are these linked anywhere to have both gone at the same time?

I'll check but it's probably safest to go with the amazon one as the other add seems far too cheap to be true. I'll get a look at my car and make sure the codes are matching too. Thanks for your help.

Thanks for this. Yes I've always been happy with the lights as standard, I never realised they dimmed over time, I've not noticed so much probably due to it being progressive over the 6 years I've owned the car. I've also never heard that the brighter blue tints aren't as good in the rain, how does the rain affect the visibility? I've just had a look at the link you shared and the prices vary so much, this is what led me to think is there something I'm missing. Just doing a quick search, on ebay there's these as a pair which look the same as your amazon link to me? https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1175907176 but the code is different at 66144, vs your link 66140. Where did you get the code from for my model?

Is there much difference between these bulbs, they seem to range from really low to £120. I'm sure the cheapest ones won't last 5 mins but I'm not keen to spend £120 if i can help it. Any recommended brands?

I have a 2010 2 litre TDI elegance model, it has the xenon headlight bulbs if this is the correct name unless its a brand? The drivers side low beam has started glowing pink/red, it failed to light up one day but is since back on but never returns to bright white.Is this the lamp thats on it's way out and if so, what's the options for replacement, do i need to change both sides to prevent the passenger side going soon?

I'll give it a try with 4 hands and get back to you asap, thanks for the help & patience

I tried this yesterday, same setting and method as I was doing which you mention above but this time i tried with the the bonnet open and the catch down with car locked up for 1 hour simulating it being locked. My multimeter was just jumping all over the place so I need to take it to another garage or someone with a decent meter with more amp settings. It was impossible to take a reading with the numbers jumping about. I couldn't even get the same reading as i had previously shown above. I tried a second time, and later tried doing it then turning the meter off and back on to see if that gave a steady reading but the car alarm started going off so i'm guessing the connection must of slipped to cause that.

Thanks ill have a read of the link you sent. This is what i get on my multimeter.

it s an Oldham advanced and says 74Ah 12V 670CCA I did take it to a garage to get it double checked to make sure my multimeter was reading it correct. I only have one setting for amps, it says mA A and has direct and alternating pattern on the same dial where as volts has separate settings for direct and alternating ac/dc. When it's set at rest the display shows 00.00, once it's connected it shows - 289.6 m A

It must be 0.3A, I did get someone else to double check it and said it's fine being below 0.5a. The battery is now back on charge as it's too flat to start the car. I bought it in mid October 2018 when i found the receipt. So its 2 yrs and 4 months old. I'm sure the warranty is 3 to 5. It's not like it's sitting for weeks on end without being started. I have disconnected the car terminals from it and charging it up fully again. I will then try checking the battery on volts as someone turns the engine over to see if the starter motor is excessively pulling from it as someone local suggested it might be on it's way out. If this is worth it, what figures would i be looking at? Other than a weak battery and not enough use I don't know what it can be now. I don't want to buy another incase it does it again. I may have to buy a solar charger that plugs into the 12V lighter socket to top it up if it's the lack of use or shorter runs.

After finding the charging problem last week, my battery is still draining slowly, it's been used for 3 shorts runs over the last 6 days since i fixed it. Yesterday i went to start it and it felt lazy, today it almost never started. I have disconnected the earth lead from the battery and checked for earth leakage between the negative lead and terminal and it's drawing .3 mili amps so thats ok, I've checked it 4 times over 2 days. The battery is around 18 months old from memory. could there be something else or is it purely the cold killing the battery and minimal use? I'm going to disconnect it and give it a full charge with an optimate 4, what baffles me is that 6 weeks ago i took it out for a 70 miles round trip and the next day it got sluggish to start.

So an update, luckily it ended up being a loose plug on the alternator preventing the alternator kicking in until the engine reached 1500rpm. I don't know how this has came loose or if someone in a garage might have done it in the past.

I will update here once I get some spare time soon. Hopefully the next week