MrSissons

Evening all, MOT today and got the following minor defect - suspension arm ball joint dust cover severely deteriorated. Am I right in thinking this is a new ball joint? Quick search through the forum suggest this is an easy DIY job with 4 bolts in total. Do I need tracking afterwards? Thanks

FWIW I have replaced my aerial with one of these - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221590883405, and it seems to have solved the issue but have only driven small rounds so far so true test over time. When people say yank hard, they’re not lying. Yank it hard and if it comes with an adapter like mine, make sure to lift the aerial base thread back into the ‘upright’ position before screwing in. You may think it’s too small a thread but it does go!

Thanks Breezy, just saved me an exhaust! Is it worth trying to clean up corrosion and treat / seal with putty or simply just ignore altogether.

Hope you had a merry Christmas guys! Was thinking, if I do need a full exhaust replacement would a VRS exhaust fit on?

Initially the oil leak, when cleaning this part it always come up oiley again so suspect the o ring has gone but every now and again the EML light comes on and the error code was camshaft position related.. can’t recall code mind. On a separate point, my recent MOT advises “ slight leak at front flex pipe”, slight leak at 2nd exhaust joint” and “rear silencer corroded”. Found various posts for the front flex repair but this sounds like a whole new exhaust might be somewhat easier? Thanks

Hi all, I am trying to figure out what this part is, I found a parts drawing which states it’s as impulse sender and when searching impulse sender it comes up camshaft sensor. Part number is 11G0368. Car is 60hp 1.2 htp. Also assume this is source of oil leak. Thanks

Hi Doily, Yes there is 12V at the coax pin, assume I need to check 12V at aerial side of pin too and for this I have to remove aerial again?

To update you all and for others in future. After a painful recovery and ten days later the car is finally fixed and back with me. The issue was the steering control module, part number S3Q0905861B £500 for the total bill including parts and 2.5 hours labour. Only downside is I now have a nasty scratch on the airbag from either Skoda or Recovery truck… Thanks for all the help!

Hi all, I have a 09 baseline mk2 Fabia with the common poor radio signal (dance) having search through the forums here the most common issue I’ve read is water in the base of the aerial. I’ve taken the headlining down and managed to completely remove the aerial from the car but the base (where it attaches to the car) is bone dry. The aerial is the long type which the rubber does seem to have become dry and brittle but wouldn’t have thought this would affect signal. What else should I be looking at next? Thanks

Bump

Thanks Aperture! Sounds like a trip to the local dealers then, any idea what damage I’m looking at?

Thanks Aperture, for what it’s worth the wheel turns completely, how would I go about checking or removing the steering lock pin?

Yes

Hi all, wonder if your knowledgable folk can help! Went to start car this morning at the screen flashed up with “ Move Steering Wheel” and wouldn’t start. Tried turning the steering wheel in both directions, tried adjusting the rake of the steering, locking unlocking etc but nothing. Rang the nearest skoda dealer to be told to ring AA/RAC. Not currently got at home cover so looking to this, but any ideas where to start or if anyone has come across this before? The car drove absolutely fine yesterday. It’s a 2016 2.0 TDI superb. Thanks in advance.

Hi all, sorry to resurrect an old thread but I discovered some more when removing the boot liner. Certainly looks after market but anyone got any guesses? There is a fitted inline fuse also?

Thanks ApertureS! When you say best bet to buy one off a scrap car what do you mean? Buy a 16inch alloy wheel or a full 205/65/R16 setup? Noted about the speed and time factors, it’s intended use is only to get out of trouble and nothing major, so would this space saver be okay for that? thanks

Evening all, I have been reading through various posts about spare wheels and acquired a ‘space saver spare wheel’ which is 3.5J x 16 code HA42160927 with a T125/70R16 I read that the closest to a full size is 205/60/16. Am I right that I can’t fit a 205/60 tyre on this rim and that I need to buy a different rim? If so what size rim would I need and can I still use this spare as a spare? Thanks

Hi there these are the wires I was referring to and you can see like some blanking plates

Hi all thanks for responses. There is no hole in diffuser for tow bar but in the spare wheel compartment there are lots of wires and scotch block type things. Is this just a preparation type thing or did the previous owner remove tow bar and refit standard bumper?

Hi all I have recently taken delivery of a 2016 Skoda super estate 2.0 190PS SEL Exec and am still getting used to it. I have run the option codes through the decoder and get the following; E0A = No special edition 1D4 = Trailer hitch, manually swiveling 7UG = Navigation system - High I8H = High radio (Gen2) 1KU = Disc brakes, rear 1AT = Electronic stabilization program (ESP) 7MM = Emission standard EU6 plus 1N3 = Speed-related variable steering assist (Servotronic) G01 = Front shock absorption HI9 = code not found :-( 4UP = Drivers and front passenger air bag with knee air bag and front passenger air bag deactivation L07 = Suspension range 07 installation control only, no requirement forecast B09 = Type approval Great Britain and NorthernIreland 3QT = 3-point seat belts with tensioner and height adjustment, front 4X3 = Side air bag front with curtain air bag J2D = Battery 380 A (68 Ah) QI6 = Service indicator 30,000 km or 2 year ( variable ) 8GU = Alternator 140 A This doesn’t seem complete as I have heated front seats but no code for this, would this be due to it being an standard option? My question though I have a tow bar lever built into the rear bumper guard but no tow bar as the codes would suggest?

Still have the same problem and changed the belt so it's had a new aux belt tensioner, 2 no. aux belt and the squeal still persists. It also now has a 'tsh tsh tsh' kinda sound which is very faint but can be heard. Is there anyway to check the alternator pulley or what else could be causing this? Could it be a result of the timing belt?

It's a sdi 1.9

Hi there I have this horrible squeal which sounds like it's coming from the aux belt area. I have recently replaced the aux belt tensioner and the aux belt but I still have the squeal. It's only on start up and while the engine is warming up then it goes away. Any ideas?

Apologies all as I'm sure this has discussed at length however I am still confused as to what is required. I have bought a new key and transponder on fleabay as I only have a single 2 fob key. I have purchased a 3 fob key but I believe I need to have it coded to the immobiliser and also for the remote centra locking system. I believe I need to get my SKC code or key code to have it coded? Is this correct please can someone give a definitive answer and potentially some one who may be able to help me

As a new driver (passed in august) my second car is a SDI 1.9 and i can honestly say they are a great beginner car! The SDI is cheap to run and tax isnt so bad around 13£ a month. Insurance is pretty hefty for me at 1800£ but thats due to first time driver etc and with 1 years NCD, I've had quotes at 600£. As for general driving the visibility is good and being a first time driver you don't really mind a couple of knocks hear and there as they're pretty well built IMO, not to mention the massive amounts of helpful people on here! My one warning though the SDI is slower than a cheetah with no legs -it really is that slow. (not a huge thing for new drivers but just note)