Everything posted by hebdenwill
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rear wiper coming on by itself on starting car
Hi all, This started a couple of days ago - I started the car and the rear wiper started furiously sweeping, the speed it goes when you spray the rear window. I assumed I'd knocked the stalk but it was in the right position. No amount of messing with the stalk made it stop, so I went and disconnected the clip from the motor. It seemed to just go continuously without any signs of stopping. I've seen a couple of threads about this maybe being related to poor batteries, but my battery is only a year and a half old and still very strong. There doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the stalk (although I thought maybe a microswitch might have failed inside?) and the wiring going into the motor looks ok, as does the motor itself - it's not making any noise or getting hot or anything. Has anyone else experienced this and knows a fix? It'll probably be a garage job but if I can avoid that I'd rather, as I'm skint cheers Will
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Swapping 2009 estate tailgate for 2010 tailgate
ok thanks, that's great news
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Swapping 2009 estate tailgate for 2010 tailgate
Hi all, Maybe a long shot question but - does anyone know if a 2010 Fabia estate tailgate will fit onto a 2009 car? I want to replace my boot as it's horrible and rusty, and I've found one in the right colour for a good price. I've listed it below, with a 2009 tailgate (in a different colour) for reference. An added bonus is that it's quite close to me https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314172511985?hash=item49262416f1:g:PX0AAOSwqMZjOt0u&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoKtwpmxe4omPQtmmKR3XyHSCfyxJ2iamHhiS0QhGh0YNEiyuRod%2FezTvKT1trQpaO3NFwoNVhlNZzhCG9LZj%2B794zSIjP5zedjWT1pYKfzZ3u2aQUPi4WhRtZejM4rydiFNl3ndmgm%2B5UY0o0LZ5JGoXLyLCbOGAp6luxcqPuF2SgdsXIDu6CxJ4IOIC9PbeVr16uv5pnV3mjAm3Yl3SOuY%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6yRh_z9YA (this is what I'm considering going to look at) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403617630938?hash=item5df97c4ada:g:DjUAAOSw36xiYqgg&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4Im1oKUss2bAyiBfif82wLB6I%2BKHkvZCdtKihd1RlH0zqUrswd0bpg0bJf8iNAWFCz8S3kSmp1BVRywS2xIyQmi0uqn6rHaa1ClsDJvVP%2FOE8kcdoqZTQHxYLwjY6Htmc59dlrwu1YlNYqSJ6le9uBCXcMBIPjvd60jNtSeWJTZ9ODlWN8rnuxf4y5FZ6pLFFk9i%2FcsfEbnrvMNZzxaXirAPTqTXREOkWz%2FJaUeyq6QgmeL3qCpP0QEUebE1y5iHTQ75W%2BSeak9EERmBWK9wu8nbZHelqwxr5jlJ8wX8U%2Bsq|tkp%3ABk9SR6qRh_z9YA - 2009 car tailgate They look pretty identical to me, but I suppose the only way to know is to go there and see if it fits.
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turbo went bang...what should I be paying / is it a fit and forget repair?
It's corrected the rude word I used to 'kittens', just to clarify that I didn't mean to write kittens
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turbo went bang...what should I be paying / is it a fit and forget repair?
I'd have thought so for the price yeah. But it's that or get it trailered at god knows what cost to somewhere else. And in reply to that - don't be a kittens. As I stated in my original post I had to carry on to be able to pull over, or it would mean stopping bang in the middle of the A1.
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turbo went bang...what should I be paying / is it a fit and forget repair?
Ah, the oil warning light did come on...and I wasn't able to shut the engine down straight away (although it wasn't long after, and it didn't run away) The price of 850 was in fact for a recon turbo but they assure me the engine is fine, so I guess I'll have to take their word
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turbo went bang...what should I be paying / is it a fit and forget repair?
Hi all, Unfortunately on Friday night, as I was accelerating out of a layby on the A1, my turbo went bang and thick white smoke poured out of the exhaust. I managed to pull over but that required running the engine and driving the car for another couple of minutes. I'm waiting to hear back from the mechanic at the garage it was towed to regarding possible damage to the engine (I'm concerned that there could have been further damage, based on the amount of smoke and the fact that the dipstick was completely dry when I checked it after stopping) but in the meantime his receptionist has quoted me 850+ VAT for a new turbo. She didn't say whether or not the engine had been checked to make sure it was still safe and working otherwise. Has anyone experienced this before? From my research that price looks about right (although I will ask if they'll fit a reconditioned turbo) but what needs to be done before that to establish that the engine is worth fitting a turbo to? I imagine a garage wouldn't fit a new turbo to a broken engine but you never know... The car in question is a 2009 Fabia 1.9 105 with 133k miles.
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'door open' indicator woes - what next?
Open door, stick keys in ignition (handy place to keep them..) go around car to fold the mirror back out, come back to the driver's side...'CLICK' it relocks after 30 seconds or so if it doesn't detect a door having opened. I remedy this now by not letting go of the key and or opening the passenger side door, which tells the car it's open luckily I was close to home and have a spare
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'door open' indicator woes - what next?
Hi all, My 2009 Fab has the common issue of the driver door not telling the car it's open, leading to keys locked inside on one occasion! I assumed this would be the door lock module (having briefly checked the wiring to see no obvious damage into the A post) but after fitting a new one, it's no different. Can anyone point me down the next path to try please? Or if it's best taking it to an auto electrician to diagnose? It's barely worth bothering if it costs me money but it would be nice to have it working properly..
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MK2 door mechanism
ah, perfect, yeah It's got remote central locking. I've tried the 6th from last, ebay compatibility checker also say's it'll fit. I can always send it back if needs be thanks for your help
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waterproof number plate light lens seal
another quick one I hope! Does anyone know if a non-absorbent number plate light gasket exists for Fabias, made of rubber rather than foam? I'm going to get my rusty boot tidied up and want to make sure this particular issue is addressed, to try and stop rust coming back in this weak spot alternatively, has anyone tried just cutting new ones out of thin rubber in the right shape?
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MK2 door mechanism
Hi all, I'm going to change the driver's door mech on my car, it seems like there are two kinds available which both say they'd fit (but look totally different) one supposedly fits cars from 1999-2014 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154156704665?fits=Model%3AFabia&hash=item23e474a399:g:yHgAAOSw931h6AiS) and the other looks similar, if a different colour, for a different year range (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194198033813?fits=Model%3AFabia&hash=item2d371ad595:g:dK4AAOSwvVpgw2cG) has anyone done the job / know why they could be different? cheers
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aux port not working on my fabia mk 2 estate - does it have a fuse?
the port is sitting inside a little 1.5cm square block with the flap cover that says AUX, if you get two very thin edged prying tools (ideally plastic!) you can lever it out and make sure it's all connected as it should be. It is quite fiddly, you can peel the bit of trim under where the handbrake sits and get a finger in to help
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Boot latch / button being weird
Hi all, Fabia MK2 estate - the boot will occasionally not want to 'close' properly, it won't click shut unless banged really hard several times. It also, with no rhyme or reason, seems to sometimes unlock the boot with one press of the key (which is what I want it to do) but quite often doesn't, and will re-lock the boot after closing even when I use the boot button on the key. Is this an issue anyone else has? I'm concerned that water may have got in via the rust above the numberplate (am I right in saying this propagates due to water holding foam seals in the light fittings?) as shown in the photo. Could the mechanism inside the boot have gone funky from the moisture? anyone with some expertise on this please give me a shout and yes, I will be getting the boot rust sorted as soon as I can afford, I'm thinking of getting a body shop to clean it up and do a black stripe along to avoid poorly matched paint
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aux port not working on my fabia mk 2 estate - does it have a fuse?
might not be pertinent but when I got my Fabia II, the last owner had managed to push the port so hard it had separated inside its block and the cable end would not click in, as it was just pushing it down. Pry the block out (quite fiddly) and see if that's happened / if there's a loose wire on the bottom
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Clutch and DMF in a 1.9 - is it time yet or should I wait?
Hi all, I've recently noticed the clutch in my car feeling a bit funny, when I'm letting it out it sometimes feels like the clutch pressure isn't constant, it's hard to describe exactly what I mean, but it feels like it's being let out more than it should at that height on the pedal. I also notice the wheels chirp slightly sometimes when I let it out on a gear change. Does this mean the clutch is wearing out? The car has 127k miles and I don't think there's any reference to it having been done yet in the service history, is it past time to be changed? I've never had a car with clutch problems before so I'm not really sure what to expect.. With regard to the DMF, it doesn't seem to be rattling or doing any of the things they're supposed to do when they're failing, but I guess the best thing would be to get it changed along with, right? I was thinking I'd buy the set (it's about £300) one month then get the garage to fit it the next month, so as to spread the cost a bit. Has anyone had this job done lately? I've read massively varying quotes for (parts incl) between mid 500s and up to £1500! cheers if you can help *edit* I should add that the car changes gear nicely
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new wipers likely to help windscreen smearing?
thanks for the tip seriesdriver, I did use some vinegar on them when I got the car which helped a lot! but it's time for them to go I think and yeah cheers baxlin, I gave it a really good clean then clay-barred it then cleaned again, then applied two coats of rain-x, which also helped a lot I do wonder if there's any worth to trying that expensive AutoGlym glass polish...
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new wipers likely to help windscreen smearing?
Yeah fair enough haha
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new wipers likely to help windscreen smearing?
quick question - when my wipers wipe they leave a patch of not properly cleared glass which can be quite distracting (see photo) is a new set of decent wipers likely to make this better, or is it due to damage on the windscreen? There are a few very small pits in it and some very fine scratches going the same direction that the wipers go. thanks if you can help
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driver's door dash light / door locking
Thanks, I haven't checked the wiring yet, I'm always worried with those big rubber wiring sleeves that I won't get them back on properly. Is a tool needed or is it just a case of squeezing in the right places? I'll check the wiring first before doing the mechanism. Is the wiring likely repairable if damaged? From a very cursory glance the rubber sleeve is seated well and isn't perished / full of holes. If the wiring inside is in good condition, I'll go for the lock, but eBay seems to have some fairly similar items with different year ranges (I've seen something like 1999-2014 on one and 2004-2007 on another...) This is what I think I'll go for - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154156704665?hash=item23e474a399:g:inQAAOSw~VBg4zH- does anyone reading this happen to have the right part number? thanks for the advice Wino EDIT* If needed, it's a 59 plate BSW engine
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driver's door dash light / door locking
hi all, as with my old Octavia I've got a driver's door not showing as open (or triggering interior light, lights on buzzer etc). After locking my keys in my car the other day (don't ask, luckily I was close to home) I decided to sort it out so that I don't do it again somewhere where I can't go and get my spare. I've watched a really good video showing how to replace the microswitch alone but for £20 from ebay I think I'll just save the faff and try a new mechanism. I've done the job before on an Octavia so I'm comfortable doing it again, but before I do I wanted to see if I could get it to show any life with some WD40, as I've heard people recommend. Where exactly should I be putting the nozzle to reach the microswitch? And another thing, for anyone who has expertise with that sort of small electronics - is there anything I can do before fitting the new part to preserve / lengthen the life of the new microswitch? Such as a dab of dielectric grease or anything like that? As I imagine that that's the part that commonly fails as it gets used the most out of all the door microswitches. thanks if you can help
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shiny black / silver sidelight bulb discolouration
Thank you, very well explained! I'll change them out as soon as the new bulbs arrive
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shiny black / silver sidelight bulb discolouration
hi all, just a general question I've been pondering... does anyone ever get their sidelight or numberplate light bulbs getting a shiny blackish silver coating on the outside, leading to reduced brightness? I've noticed it on a couple of my car's bulbs (and have ordered replacements) and have certainly noticed it on several other cars I've had I've never seen bulbs for sale with this effect so I can only assume that it's due to dirt or grease colouring them, or perhaps that they'll soon fail, does anyone know what produces it? I've done plenty of googling but of course all I can find is references to cloudy headlights
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thoughts on a 1.9 remap
ok cheers guys, yeah, the clutch definitely feels like it's on its way out, so that's probably going to need sorting before anything else, and hopefully won't require the DMF changing as well! out of interest, anyone know a ballpark figure of what one might expect to pay for a clutch replacement on a 1.9 fabia?
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thoughts on a 1.9 remap
I've been pondering getting my 59 plate 125k mile Fabia 1.9 mapped up a bit, nothing daft, just up to 135 ish. I've had the car a few months, the timing belt, water pump and tensioners are new, and I got the oil changed immediately when I bought it as there was no proof of it having been done lately. I've had about 3000 miles of totally trouble free motoring and feel like I can trust the car and don't mind investing slightly in some none-essential quality of life improvements. I previously had a 2002 1.9 90bhp octavia which I got mapped up to 110, it worked perfectly and ran for another 8k until I got rid of it. In other people's experience, does the 105 engine map up to the 140 region safely? I've seen quoted gains of up to around 170, which I feel like may be playing with fire...