hebdenwill

hi all, I'm going to view a car tomorrow to replace my horrible awful Audi, it's a 59 plate Fabia 3 105 estate. It has a couple of issues advertised (I guess I'll see in person what they're like) but seems a good straight motor; decent service history, cambelt in date, good bodywork. The only thing that's given me pause for thought is that the rear windows are manual - I'm sure that in my last Fabia (a 3) it had electric rear windows. Could this just be something that someone specified when buying it new from the factory? It seems odd... Otherwise it has all the trappings of a '3' - maxidot computer, cruise control, black velour style seats... If anyone can enlighten me / put my mind at rest I'd be most grateful!

I'm curious... I was looking at a 57 plate fabia for sale with the MK2 body the other day. Today, I noticed a very much MK1 fabia...with a 57 plate. Does anyone know why this is? Did they swap production over partway through a 'run' or something like that? I think I've noticed this with some octavias around 2004 / 5 as well! Let me know if it's piqued your curiosity too...

Lovely, thanks for that. I've seen a couple of very nice looking fabia estates darn sarth...

Hi all, I'm going to buy another Skoda soon, I have a budget of preferably under 2.5k and want either a Fabia or Octavia (had an excellent 08 Fabia with a pd105 before but crashed it). I'm looking for something no older than 2008 and preferably under 100k miles but well maintained. My issue is I'm worried about what year they started fitting DPF's, I've read that no 1.9s had them and also that some do. I'd like to to as 'new' as possible age wise but to avoid the DPF. Does anyone have any specific wisdom about this issue? Also, If anyone is selling something like that, let me know, I may be interested..

Nice one, that's good to hear. Thanks!

I've had a look around on the forum but not seen a conclusive answer (I've seen a range actually) When I turn the ignition my glow plug symbol has only been flashing up for probably less than a second. Is that normal? On my 2001 1.9 Octy they would show for a good 4-5 seconds I should add that it always starts beautifully This is a 2008 Fabia

Ah, yeah it does! Briefly, then it makes the long beep and disappears

I don't know, it looks kosher enough but I wouldn't know how to tell

ok thanks folks, well in that case I'm going to stop bothering with it, it's not that big of a problem anyway

I think it was called Carista. So if and when the scan tool tells me there's an improper connection from one of the sonars, what's my move? What I'm asking is, does anyone have experience actually accessing them, since you can't reach from below?

I should clarify; it was me and my friend looking at his little scanning tool in the car park at work. We'll try again with the car in reverse. does anyone have any parking sensor-specific knowledge? given that they're hidden right up inside the bumper they're not easy to get to, is it a bumper off job?

had it on diagnostics for an engine fault the other day but it didn't show up. Would it have needed to be in reverse?

Hi all, My recently purchased 2008 Skoda Fabia estate has parking sensors fitted. The seller advised me that they didn't work when I bought it, so this isn't a new issue. I've watched a couple of videos saying to listen out for a very quiet clicking sound, but none of the four are making this sound. I've shot WD40 at them to try and purge any moisture, this hasn't worked either. It seems like none of them are getting a current. When I put the car into reverse the radio display flashes up as a little car and there's a long beep. Does anyone know what I could do next? Is there some sort of control box for them somewhere?

Ok, I got the multimeter on it and the numbers have improved even more! 12.59 volts with the engine off, with the negative lead on the battery and the same with it on the end of the lead to the earth bolt on the suspension tower. Voltage settled at 14.23 with the engine running, but with high beams on it went down to 14.12. Other good news is that the auto window up and down (the second click on the button) is working all of a sudden, no return of any weird bugs, engine light not reappeared, and it's also stopped vibrating at idle! (Maybe down to a fast run on the motorway)

Here's a picture! As I said, not perfect but not too bad at all As for 303, I left my Lee Enfield at home 🤣

I gave it a go (20 minutes or so of a job) and it came out quite well. I powerwashed the metal at the sides and took the engine cover off and sprayed that after applying some Elbow Grease degreaser, and it came up really nice. I just used a moist cloth to wipe gunk off after I'd degreased everything, it certainly looks a lot better than it did on the surface, but it's far from perfect down below. I'll try and get a picture up

Not sure as I don't have a multimeter, will have to check in a couple of days, thanks for the pointer

the foam soundproofing on the back of my car's engine cover has mostly disintegrated, can anyone suggest a worthwhile replacement? I've seen some threads around the internet of people using sticky-backed silver foam stuff which looks decent but not been able to find it with a google.

that's good! was it easy to get to? how long did it take you to get to the relevant part?

Hi all, I'm not that bothered about cleaning my car but noticed the engine and engine bay is very dirty. What should I be careful for when washing it? I'd guess I'll want to avoid blasting the battery and any exposed wiring. My plan was to: power wash any surface dirt off whatever I can, then make a 50/50 mix of flash cleaner and water in a spray bottle, spray everything liberally, scrub any dirt with a brush, then rinse that off.

Well, I had a look around when it wouldn't start today (lots of fast clicking) and straight away noticed a large strap connected to the positive battery post which was pretty loose. I loosened the 10mm nut holding it *pictured below under the red diode end*, cleaned the base where it screwed down (with my fingernail, not properly, I might do it properly another day) and screwed it down nice and tight. Since then I have had only very slightly flickering headlights when using power steering, no weird ABS light, no radio restarting, and no clicking on turning the key!! Oh, and the check engine light went out and hasn't come back on, fingers crossed that stays away! I've attached a picture of the batt. voltage with engine running. It sat stably between 13.79 and 13.81v with various different electrical loads, including turning the wheel to full lock. I should note this was after tightening up that wire (I also checked for any loose suspects in the area, didn't see any but should have a proper look) So, it looks like some tentative good news at first!

It doesn't look that old, at least I don't think it's the original one. I'll have a look at all that then, is the starter motor earth strap bolt fiddly to get to do you know?

Ok cheers folks, you've been very helpful! I'll start with the earths and see how they look, then new battery then test the voltage into the new battery to see how the alt is. Now I think of it, when I quickly checked the charging before I set off to Scotland, with the engine running the voltage from the terminals was something like 12.8, but when I plugged a coolbox in it shot up to 13.5. could that mean anything?

Thanks mpm, earth to body likely to be where? If the battery was dying would it still show those symptoms? Even after a ten hour drive? Surely if the alternator was fine the batt would be charged just as well as any trickle charger can after such a long drive?

Ok cheers I will try that, I suppose that suggests the alternator is at fault though? Especially if voltage dips when electric steering pump is running?