edwardw

Only got the one decent photo unfortunately. These forums are life savers although sometimes it can be a bit like when you google your cold and come to the conclusion you have a brain tumour! Thankfully you come across a mind easing post like this every so often... I've always been a Castrol edge man but perhaps it might be time to make the swap.

You sir are absolutely bloody brilliant. Thank you for your help and that has massively put my mind at rest - and dumbass isn’t far off! I have actually just saved your list of tips onto my notes too. What a gent - I’m a bit of a worrier when it comes to car problems (I have a habit of buying lemons - regardless of how many checks and independent examinations I get done on the car first ) so this has absolutely put my mind at ease. Thank you! And I’ll update if I do/don’t go ahead with anything!

Thank you for all your help everybody! I'm going to stick with it as standard - I love it to bits how it is anyway. Again thanks for all being so helpful

If I’ve been driving I leave it 10-20 minutes before checking but I normally check before leaving so it’s been left overnight to drain back into the sump. Do you know if there is much clearance from the sump to the crank? I can’t imagine a couple mm being enough to collide with the crank and cause foaming?

Yeah all correct now - I think I'll leave it standard! As you say let sleeping dogs lay... I imagine it can't have done any damage assuming there is a reasonable clearance between the oil sump and crankshaft 500ml shouldn't have raised it too much. I had low crankcase pressure actually at the same time as I had oil leaking from the oil filler cap - which I guess could have been my saving grace. If it's leaking from there I can't imagine it would have built up enough pressure anywhere else to cause my oil seals any problems.

Hello everybody - thanks for all the help on my last post! Now I have only owned my Octy a short period. I bought it from a dealer who serviced it before sale. As soon after I bought it I drove over 100 miles home and parked on my steep steep drive - checked the oil and it was ever so slightly over the max. I thought nothing of it as it was on a reasonable gradient (doh - I know..). Now I immediately then had to travel on holiday, take my fiancée to Uni and back 2x to move in etc. etc. Anyhow - to cut a long story short I drove about 2000 miles in the space of the next month. At this point I found it wise to check the oil (in my previous car used to check it weekly as it drank a pint a day getting me to work and back) and it was still over the max mark. This made my bum flap a little bit - I had it drained out and the garage who drained it reckon it was maybe 250ml over the max or if I'm super unlucky a little bit more than that - possibly even 500ml. (Drained it into an already full container so couldn't tell exactly). Now my car has no oil usage whatsoever - I've done 1000 miles since draining and used no oil and I drive in a rather spirited fashion for the most part. I've been told if it was to do major damage then I would know by now... however it has made me unsure about my plans to remap the car. It only has 68k on the clock and I would love to get a Shark map but I don't want to end up with blown oil seals everywhere etc. or even problems with the crankshaft and so forth. Anybody have any ideas? Should I leave the map or will it be alright to go for the Shark Stage 1? Sorry for the essay - feel free to drop a mark out of 12.

Thank you everybody got a job to do now then - is it a definite having to redo the membrane? Dont fancy having to sort out damp white carpets!!

Hi, just last month got an 05 67k Mk1 VRS. Absolutely enamoured with the car - although have a slight issue. The rear O/S (Drivers side) door is very intermittent with whether it is locking or not. I thought it would be the microswitch however the chrome door pin always reacts when I press the key to either lock or unlock the car - almost as if the motor/actuator is not strong enough to open the door? My gut would tell me if the microswitch was faulty then the silver pin wouldn't be wiggling when I pressed the key - surely if it was microswitch nothing would happen at all when it wasn't working - then operate completely as normal when it does work? I have looked through about a million forums but I can't diagnose what my problem is! Not deliberately trying to necro old problems that have a million solutions already - honest....