TheFlash

It's a fairly straightforward job.
 
The next base kit comes with a piggyback fuse which will slot into an existing fuse slot and allow you to take power from it.
 
This is how I fitted mine:
 

 
If you look at the right hand side of the fusebox there is a Torx 20 screw. If you loosen this it will let you push the fusebox back enough to pass the cable through to avoid coming out the front of the fusebox and down and under the panel. Much neater.
 
I used this fuse slot:
 

 
Which gave me an ignition live so no worries of draining the battery.
 
If you remove this panel on the driver's side dash then you can gain access to an earth point and secure the wiring in the space. Its held on with pressure clips so will just pull off with enough force. Start at the bottom with something flat so that if you do make a mark its not obvious. You'll feel it "pop" and start to come out, then just use your hand working up the rest of the way.
 

 

 
Use the top bolt as an earth. a 13mm socket will remove it. Then secure the wiring to the existing wiring loom behind the dash using cable ties so it is nice and secure and safe. 
 
If you can source some of the black tubing, known as convoluted tubing, it will help protect the wiring as it runs up the A pillar or near any bare metal and will secure it under the roof lining to avoid it falling down!
 
You'll need to pull the door seal off before removing the A pillar which as far as I remember pops off, which will give you plenty of space to run the cable. Pull the headlining down a touch along the windscreen and run the cable along there to wherever your mounting the camera.
 
Then feed the cable out to your desired location:
 

 
So the only tools you really need are:
 
Torx 20 screwdriver,
Ratchet with 13mm socket,
Something flat and preferably plastic to remove the dash panel.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Anything else you want to know or want cleared up just ask.
 
Cheers,
 
Grant