Pilotguy

Kitchen? How much premium sound do you need there? Sonos may be overkill. I've got a Google Nest Mini (Small and Mighty is their tagline). It sounds perfectly fine for my smallish galley kitchen. Ideal for BBC, Times Radio, Spotify, Podcasts, Audiobooks and such. Very good for timers for cooking, you can set multiple. Asking for ingredients for dishes, adding items to shopping lists, setting reminders etc etc. Amazon Echo Dot in the bedroom does all the same things in Alexa style, usually on offer. https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Echo-Dot-3rd-Gen-Charcoal/dp/B07PJV3JPR/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1XH6TJ13WSK66&dchild=1&keywords=google+nest+mini&qid=1611181833&sprefix=google+nest%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-6

Thanks, I didn’t realise 2021 maps were available, something to do in my spare time next week. I rarely rely on the in car maps really, plus the roads in Cornwall haven’t changed in years!

I always get my update files from the VW portal. Just put in Golf Mk7 and your cars year, so long as the files you choose are for Discovery Pro . The Skoda ones will be the same under the skin, though. Yours does look like a Columbus, wits the same as mine, at least. The experts on here can tell which for sure from the code when you go into System Information. Have a look on the Upgrading the Infotainment System thread. This is my Columbus system:

Good to hear that it’s a pleasure even when it’s in its work clothes!

Coming home in fog tonight I experienced exactly the same as @nickcoll and came onto the forum to try and see if it was a new fault. In short I think it is working as it’s supposed to. I.e. On high beam speed approx 40 MPH the offside beam was aiming well off to the right, then going through some twists the dynamic mode was superimposed over this. I stopped on the edge of the village and took a photo with the high beam on/car stationary, then 2 more in front of the garage door on high and low beam. Reviewing the photos tonight the alignment looks fine (my garage wall and gate not so much!) to me. The car on the hill was parked, I wasn’t blinding anyone!

I think maybe you’ve formatted the SD card incorrectly, so the system now can’t read the card. Did you backup the data before you reformatted it? The last load was working, so it isn’t the fact that it’s a non-Skoda card. You said you unzipped the downloaded package before saving to the SD card, so that’s good. If you had Columbus I think the nav system would just have kept on working and rejected the attempt to update. So best bet is to check what format you did on the card, try the alternative format, reload the new nav files and try again. If you have backed up the old load maybe try that again first. Nice interior, but what we need to see, I believe, is just the head unit and the unit inside the glovebox.

Lovely photo. Portaferry?

Page 41 of the owners manual: The automatic power windows do not work if the vehicle battery was disconnec- ted and connected while a window is open. The system must be activated. Proceed as follows in order to re-establish the function: › Switch on the ignition. › Pull the top edge of the button and close the window. › Release the button. › Pull the relevant button upwards again for approx. 3 seconds, and keep it press- ed down. In the winter, ice accumulating on the surface of the window may cause there to be more resistance when closing the window. The window will stop and move back several centimetres. It is necessary to deactivate the force limiter to close the window » page 40.

The windows do throw a hissy fit occasionally and malfunction. The owners manual has a paragraph or two about the reset procedure. It’s been posted on here a couple of times before too.

I’ve got the same car as you and I’ve never experienced this. The only brake replacement I’ve had done (once since 2015) was at a Skoda main dealer with genuine parts, so perhaps try that. I’ve never had this on any car I’ve owned!

Power steering run on hydraulics, so needing an accumulator, is rare these days. For a long time VAG cars have all been electric power steering motor. So even when the engine cuts out, there should be battery power to drive steering. My car (Mk3 vRS DSG) stop/start has never cut out the engine until the car is motionless. Not sure what’s up with PetrolDave’s!

When are they delivering the car? What spec have you gone for? I’ve been thinking for a bit that the iV is the car for me, am I right in thinking that it’s a Zero vehicle duty car with the low (26 kg/m3) emissions? The only problem is that when I add DCC, Velvet Red paint and Simply Clever pack as the options on the configurator I get to a recommended On The Road price of £39,156. A huge amount of money to me. I have a trade in vRS Octavia DSG estate, but will need to finance a good deal of the rest of that price. I’m hoping for a decent discount from Motorfinity on a Blue Light/ Forces scheme! Skoda Octavia vRS iV Estimate

Welcome to the forum @Lance483 . I’m by no means an expert on that age of Octavia RS sedan, but a car that’s done 90000 km and had 5 recorded accidents at 8,2k sounds like one to get a big price reduction on, or avoid! I’d have thought you’d be in Octavia Mk3 RS at €8000. How many have you found in searches?

Astonishing that you only thought of this after you dismantled your car's suspension and bolted a whole load of 2nd hand stuff on in its place. What if they can't align this combination of parts, take it all off again?

How can there be any"standard" settings for a car randomly modified with another vehicle's suspension setup? Camber, toe-in, toe-out will almost certainly be unique. The garage should have a database in the equipment from which to start their alignment. But which to start from, a Cuppa or Octavia Mk1? Assume you're taking it somewhere with decent 4-wheel kit, not trying to do it by eye? If you're not, well good luck, you'll need it! You're better off phoning your mechanic and engaging with him, or phoning a decent place with laser alignment service.

He hasn’t confirmed that they did change it. He’s said “apparently changed” and “agreed to change”. 🤷‍♂️

Well, when you picked it up didn’t they say something like “We replaced the release bearing, that should have solved the problem. If you have any problems with it, let us know.” ? You’re being a bit avoidant about confirming that they actually changed the release bearing. Please just clarify about this.

So the clutch shouldn’t be worn out (but still could be) . You say apparently changed the clutch, why aren’t you certain? Is there any paperwork on what they did under warranty? If they did replace it, something may have been left loose and is now free inside, things could go bad quickly. For me it would be go back to the garage fairly urgently.

How many miles has the clutch actually done, what sort of driving conditions?

I edited my post after I read yours properly!

Manual gearbox I see, dissimilar rotating materials of the clutch assembly taking differing amounts of time to warm up, I’d imagine.

I’ve run a CTEK MXS 3.8 for a few years ( at least 5) on my Porsche when it’s in my garage over winter. No issues with it, reliable and well built. If I was buying again now I would probably go for an MXS 5.0 which has the automatic low temperature setting. Also better for Gel stop/start capable batteries, I believe.

Isn’t “universal key” just a euphemism for a bloody big flat-blade screwdriver?

Eco is pretty unanimously agreed to be useless for improving consumption in town or ‘mixed’ driving. The manual says it’s for a relaxed driving style. In a vRS? What’s the point!? I’d try Individual driving mode, perhaps just have the engine in Normal to overcome the intrusive engine sound aktuator noise. Keeping the gearbox in D rather than S will save you some fuel. I get mid 30s from my 220 vRS TSI in general driving.