Troubled
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Posts posted by Troubled
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31 minutes ago, petrolbloke said:
Direct link for OP:
Price looks good. I think I paid about £60 on exchange basis from a dealer 10 or 11 years ago.
That is a good price. Many thanks for the link. Will try that if the part I’ve ordered turns out to be carp.
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On 07/02/2023 at 15:35, varooom said:
Yes on paper that seems like the correct part, they are about £3xx something from main dealers (they do love a good markup).
Don’t they just! My local VW garage quoted me £402.68 to source and fit! They told me the VAG warehouse only has 4 of them in stock.
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Thanks again. I’m much further forward than I would be without your help. Ideally I would like to buy new but that’s looking unlikely. And the reviews for any site that claims to offer new parts seem to be awful. Thanks again for your help.
Edit - this looks like it might be a go-er!:
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Ok. That’s really helpful. I’ve just dug out my V5 and see that the engine number starts and ends with ARX. Presume that’s right? As for the current MAF, I think it’s after market/cheap stuff so will the part number on that potentially be different?
Edit - has anyone had any experience of using this site?:
https://www.123spareparts.co.uk/oem-number/06a906461l?brand[]=30
also, I don’t understand what the differences are between the three results.
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Hi all. I need to replace the MAF on my Octavia mk1. Can anyone please tell me where I can order a Bosch one from? Maybe provide a part number or link?
I’m not very mechanically minded; From what I see online the images show a cylindrical kind of unit which the sensor sticks out the top of. I think I only need the sensor bit, not the cylindrical part. Do I have to buy it all? Thanks in advance.
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So.... long time no post. Had a smoke test done today. Bloody great split in a breather pipe below the manifold (whatever that is). New parts ordered. Hopefully fit on Monday. Wahooo!
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No news is good news, right?; Car still running very well apart from the odd bounce in revs when slowing down. Still yet to find the money for coil pack replacement but will do the coil earth shortly. Thinking of closing this thread down. Many thanks again for your all your help.
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Thanks for not taking the p*ss out of me on the battery front!
I'll investigate where the cable goes to/comes from, but just out of curiosity. I'll have another look to confirm the tape in the loom but from memory, it really did look like shiny electric rather than Matt fabric.
I'll clean up the earth point too - it is rusty, but securely fastened.
Interestingly I checked the dipstick during the day and it wasn't fully pushed home by a click. "That's it!" I thought. Pushed it in and..... dipping of revs still happened twice on the way home :(
However!....it's still behaving comparatively well on the whole.
Thanks again for taking the time to reply.
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@kentphil1
(I think!) this is the coil pack loom. Does this look standard to you? Looks like it's wound in electrical tape to my untrained eye. It's not how I imagined it would look; Regardless, I'm not confident enough to mess about with anything here. I had enough trouble putting the engine cover back on!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/spleencheesemonkey/27738885882/in/dateposted/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/spleencheesemonkey/27562360090/in/dateposted/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/spleencheesemonkey/27840295425/in/dateposted/ (you can see coil pack 3 that they wouldn't replace under warranty here)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/spleencheesemonkey/27764255001/in/dateposted/
As a side note, I found a cable that isn't connected to anything. Out of interest, does anyone know what it might be? It comes from underneath the "box" on the near side front and goes nowhere. (Gotta love my technical descriptions eh?):https://www.flickr.com/photos/spleencheesemonkey/27764256501/in/datetaken/
This is the "box" the cable appears from underneath:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/spleencheesemonkey/27562361990/in/dateposted/
Sorry for my ongoing questions. As ever, grateful for all of your responses.
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Glad you got it sorted. Well done!
Any chance you could mark the thread as solved so people can see at a glance that you had success?
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I think this may well end up being one of those "spoke to soon" posts but I'm gonna do it anyway!
I CANNOT get my car to misbehave at high revs and the idle seems to be a lot smoother. I've driven it the hardest I ever have and still can't get it to display the symptoms I had before the smoke test and throttle body reset.
The only thing that's concerning me right now is a slight bounce/dip of the revs occasionally when I slow down to approach a junction or stop at a red traffic light. Confused much?! (Not that it takes much.)
I'm still going to check the coil pack loom, replace the coil pack and continue to follow up on all the wonderful advice given here, however it will need to wait until payday at the earliest.
Presumably the dip in revs mentioned earlier could still be a symptom of the underlying fault(s) which I haven't found yet?
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@kentphil1 Thanks again for your input. I'll have a look tomorrow and hope that my head's in a better state to try and digest the info!
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If this was my car, in view of what you have already had carried out on the car, I would be making a visual check of the coil pack loom by the camcover to make sure you have no brittle insulation on the cables that is going to ground on the engine, Also, check the coil loom earth screw on the cam cover is clean and not heavily corroded which could be why it is so intermittent. Also you could visually check the N249 valve to make sure nothing is hissing near it. I would like to hope that a professional would have already checked these, but you can never tell nowadays.
As you are showing a lean condition code, you have a vacuum leak somewhere, and it is highly possible to be one of the small bore lines leading to one of the many solenoid valve that the 1.8T engine possesses Fuel trim is explained in this Ross Tech video if you want to bring yourself up to speed a bit https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yM3iarhSP68.
You could also double check the wiring connector to the N75, as I have found breaking wires in there that are only holding on by 1 or 2 strands, causing running issues, but not normally a lumpy idle, but it may be shorting out to another part of the loom so you never fully know until you check.
I would echo G-slave really and be looking to find a local member with VCDS to log the car before you spend anymore serious money. you can also do output and readiness checks on the majority of solenoids to check them rather than renew them with VCDS which is obviously very cost effective. All the things I mentioned above to check at worst would require either a length of vacuum pipe or a small length of wire and some solder, so not much outlay really. On the coil loom, if it is compromised, you could temporarily wrap the cable with a length of insulation tape and try it for a few days to see if the fault goes away. If it does, fault found, and we can guide you how to effect a more permanent repair.
Hope this helps
Many thanks for your response. I won't pretend to understand all of it but it's given me some further things to research.
That first video is a fantastic intro to understanding fuel trim. Thanks for sharing. I now see the need to get some live logging done by someone who has the kit. As I've had both codes; running too rich and too lean, is it likely that it's the whatever is being temperamental is responsible for that?, or isn't it worth trying to guess without the using a VCDS on it? I'm asking out of interest rather than diagnostics btw. I'd like to be able to do the activities you've described in your post but I have a LONG way to go in knowing where to begin.
You say I have a vacuum leak somewhere - would this have not been picked up by the smoke test?
I'll have a further scour/give a shout out on the regional forums for someone with the kit who might be local.
Again, thanks for your help.
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I got one secondhand and its been ok, probably less than £20
Excellent. Thanks for responding after all this time.
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Nah easy, swapped mine out a few years back. Hardest part is getting the boot trim back on properly
I've heard that! Do you remember what the part cost you? I'm hoping it's just the motor that's gone on mine and that any wiring hasn't been damaged from the eruption of smoke (and presumably heat).
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Late reply, but thanks for the info. My rear wiper motor went up (literally) in smoke a few weeks ago after the front wipers came on all by themselves. I had to remove the fuse quick-sharp. I'm still to get it replaced when I've sorted the other problem!
Is it a tricky job (when you have the right part?!) ?
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Thanks guy's what can I clean the throttle body with, the temp reads about half way on the gauge and are the pipes around the back of the engine?
I bought some carb cleaner from ebay for about £8. You'll need a replacement throttle body gasket too - also about £8.
I followed this guide:
http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/129943-cleaning-throttle-body-18t-engine/
I know NOTHING about cars and managed it.
As for the pipes, I was advised to get a boost leak smoke test done. See my (currently unsolved) thread here:
Hope this helps.
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Hello all.
Smoke test carried out today. No leaks found. Mechanic said he was very confident with the results - "it was holding pressure well."
This is the description of the work carried out:
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"Carry out smoke test, no evidence of any split breather pipes.
Performed diagnostic check: 2 fault codes in engine management:
P1297: Turbocharger (TC)/throttle valve, hose connection - pressure loss
P1128: Long term fuel trim, entire speed/load range, bank 1 system too lean
Deleted codes and performed a throttle body basic reset due to this being cleaned in the past."
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I'm disappointed in some respects as I was hoping that a leak would be found and that would be my answer. Looking for the positives; I guess it's another thing eliminated.
There was talk of actuators in the turbo which may be sticking (or something like that) but that was just one of many hypotheses he mentioned - I think he was trying to tell me that unless components are taken apart, the fault may not be found. I asked if he used VAGCom kit and he said it was SnapOn. Not sure if that makes any difference.
Interesting that the P1297 code was thrown again (although I don't understand how the smoke test came back OK when the description for the code says "pressure loss".)
Also interesting is that the P1128 code seems to be (to my inexperienced knowledge, or lack of) the inverse of the "17545 Fuel Trim bank 1 (Add) System too rich P1137 _" code from my first post. Any explanations welcome.
Today's mechanic was adamant that if a coilpack was to blame that it would have thrown a code. I didn't argue with him.
Bearing the above in mind, what do you think next? Incidentally, the car drove like an absolute dream on the way to the garage despite me ranting the nuts off of it. Smooth as you like on the return journey too.
Typical.Trying to stay positive even when the bank balance is not.
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@YellowCar that's helpful. Sounds achievable too. Are they numbered from left to right as you look at the engine from the front?
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@G-slave
Smoke test booked in for Monday 20th!
Thanks for your help.
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Definitely worth a shot. Local enough too. I'll call them tomorrow. Thank you!
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Ok. It seems that finding a place in Wiltshire to do a smoke test is not as easy as it could/should be. Even the Audi/VW place couldn't recommend anywhere. Any suggestions? The closest place I've found is in Bucks: Autotorque, and I think they're an Evo specialist so may not even touch it. I haven't spoken to them yet as its well out of the way. Anyone have experience of a smoke test in Wiltshire?
So, in the meantime I'm planning to try and get another coil pack whilst trying to find a place to do a smoke test. Does anyone know of the right part number I should be looking for? I don't want to replace the coil pack with a generation that's likely to fail.
Has anyone had any experience of using skodaparts.com? Likely to be legit?
I got a price at a local skoda dealer (where my other coil packs were replaced under warranty) and it was £140(!) for the part and to fit. Is this something I could do myself? Is there a guide? The same place said the part was £40 so if I could save some money and do it myself I'd be happy.
I appreciate there's a lot of questions in this post. Your ongoing help and patience really is appreciated.
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Many thanks. I'll do that then.
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Hi all. Update as promised:
Throttle body was cleaned today. It was quite minging in there.
Still no joy though.
So..what next? Cheapest first please! Coil pack 3, smoke test or CTS?
I'll investigate where the cable goes to/comes from, but just out of curiosity. 
Typical.
Where to source reliable MAF for 53 plate Octavia 1.8t 4x4
in Skoda Octavia Mk I (1996-2004)
Posted · Edited by Troubled
Well well well. It arrived today and I only went and changed it myself didn’t I?!
This is coming from a guy who barely knows how to use a screwdriver!
I’ve no way of knowing whether the part is genuine or not, but the car is running beautifully for the first time in ages. It’s been a long long time since I’ve seen anything close to +35mpg on the trip computer.
Thank you all so much for your help. Hopefully the part is a goodun and it keeps me going for a while.
I forgot to take a picture of the part before I fitted it but it doesn’t look the same as the old one - the writing is different. Anyway, we’ll see how I get on.
Edit - I put in the code on the seal into the Bosch website and it says it’s a genuine part. Winner?!