BorderCollie
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Posts posted by BorderCollie
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Hi, the other day I had to go to visit my brother at his new address. I Switched on my Amundsen infotainment and pressed Nav and entered the postcode. All I got was a spinning disc and the only way to get rid of it was to switch the system off altogether. I repeated this and always got the same result. I eventually got a map up, but it wouldn't scroll as I travelled. 15 miles on I tried again, the search still wouldn't work, but the map was in the correct position and did scroll as I travelled. After my visit, I tried to search the best way home and everything was working as it should, including the heads-up display. Through all these problems with the Navigation system, everything else worked perfectly. On these systems is there a way of doing a reset, as you can with phone or computer and would it solve the problem.
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4 hours ago, paulski said:
@Border Collie did you "feel" the car doing a regen before the light went out?
To me an active regen is pretty noticeable when in stop start traffic, perhaps less so if you've not had to stop for a while. It chucks in more fuel to get the DPF hot enough and the engine "can" feel a bit more "sluggish"/heavy" but perceptions are different between people and the different engine Size/bhp of tdi's in our cars.
Never noticed any change, but this is my first DPF vehicle after 12 years of PD. iI have noticed occasionally, the fan running full blast after we've parked up at home, but I've also had petrol cars that did that in the past, so thought nothing of it. I've just had the car since last Aug and with "lockdowns", only covered 3,000 miles, it'll take some getting used to I guess.
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18 minutes ago, langers2k said:
The car probably hit a soot threshold which cause the warning light to show, basically asking you for help to regen.
During that mile, It may have gotten the DPF hot enough to start burning off the soot and once it dropped below the threshold, the light extinguished
It's just a theory as unless the car now has a fault code stored, it's impossible to tell.
It's getting a service at the main dealer in a couple of weeks, so if there's a problem, it'll be found out. It's still under warranty.
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On 25/07/2021 at 12:27, varaderoguy said:
Short journeys and the 2.0 TDI don't mix. Take it on a long fast journey, put in a tank of super diesel and let the car clear itself out.
We went 30 miles down the motorway and back and will be doing a few longer (20 miles+) journeys this week. I was just baffled why the amber light went off again in less than a mile. Sill, the mechanics a Skoda seem happy that it'll not be a problem so long as I put in a few longer trips.
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I bought my 67 plate Scout last August and it's now got 34,000 miles on. Yesterday, the amber DPF warning light came on and then went off again after less than a mile. This is the first time this has happened in almost a year. As I was very near the Skoda main dealer, I popped in there and spoke to a mechanic. He said not to worry about it as these cars are good at looking after themselves. I have done quite a few short (under 10 miles) journeys recently, but a couple of times a month we do over 100 miles. Do I need to worry about this? My car is due a service in less than a month and will be serviced at the main dealer.
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1 hour ago, PetrolDave said:
Both are 225 width, and width is what will affect how the boot floor sits
I'll just have to live with it. It's very tight, but if it was part worn instead of brand new it would fit better, It's also resting on the bottom yet still too high. The foam insert for the self repair kit was a perfect fit. That's life I guess. The well must be designed to only fit a space saver.
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5 hours ago, Motion said:
There is plenty of space for a a standard wheel in my2016 estate. I can put in 225x45xr17 without effecting the floor.
Mine are 225x50xr17 Maybe because it's a 2017 Scout
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8 hours ago, Stonker said:
I did exactly the same, having looked on eBay the wheel and tyre was cheaper, just but with the tool kit and secure fixing it was more cost effective to get them from the dealer.
A few months later after getting a full set of cross climate tyres fitted, I ended up with a puncture close to the sidewall, the spare wheel was fitted and worked a treat. So in my mind it's already paid for itself.
The problem is, the well / cavity in the boot is designed for a space saver wheel and it's a very very tight fit for the full size wheel. It also means that there's now a slight hump in the boot floor, but it's not noticeable below the carpet I put in.
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On 22/08/2020 at 21:52, RichardB53 said:
I just bought an Octavia estate, 4 years old, with a can of slime and a pump in the boot. I don't like the idea of doing any journey without a spare wheel, so I ordered one. There are plenty of cheap wheels with tyre on eBay, but I got a genuine Skoda kit with wheel/tyre, jack and tools, all in the proper black foam thing that fits in the wheel well. Also very important, the correct device to attach to the boot floor to hold it down, for safety reasons. It's very neat and well-designed, and I am happy with it. Caffyn's (Skoda dealer), £170 shipped, arrived ion 3-4 days. I had the spare before I had the car
Yes, I've ordered a genuine one as well, with matching wheel design. I often swap wheels around as and when necessary, and a non-matching one would look strange. I can then relax when out and about, not living on my nerves about getting a puncture I cannot deal with or being in a place with no phone reception.
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Thanks for the replies folks. All things considered, I'll make buying a full size spare a priority. We travel a fair bit in the country where the potholes have sharp sides and no amount of gunge will heal a tear in the sidewall. It's not a cheap option, but I keep my cars for around 8 yrs+, so it's peace of mind.
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Hi, I'm buying a 3 yr old Octavia Scout and it looks as though there is only a puncture repair kit, rather than any kind of spare wheel. I've occasionally had punctures over the years and at least two of them have been in the side wall or on the edge, so I've always used my full size spare wheel. Personally I wouldn't be entirely comfortable without a spare wheel, but how do others on here feel? Also, how much, roughly, would a spare alloy wheel cost?
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8 minutes ago, gav_is_con said:
There is also condition and reliance of other parts like water pump and tension rollers to consider?
The water pump etc has always been replaced at the same time as the timing belt, so it's also 33,000 miles old.
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Hi, my Octavia 08 Estate 1.9 pd has never missed a main dealer service and is running beautifully having just had a minor service earlier this month. I've just had a reminder from our Skoda dealership that the timing belt is due to be replaced. Since that last time it was changed, almost 4 years have passed, but the car has only done 33,000 more miles. Bearing in mind the age and value of the car and that I'm intending on replacing it this year, is it necessary to pay in the region of £400+ to have this done, or could the timing belt last another year? Most modern diesel cars seem to have the timing belt changed at far bigger intervals without problems.
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20 hours ago, gav_is_con said:
They don’t make them like the mk2 anymore. I agree with all the comments from all Briskodians thus far here. Hey sold all seasons and I think you will be fine. I have driven past many a 4x4 SUV with summer tyres with my Nokians on.
I know what you mean about tyres. I used to own an Audi 90 quattro and it stuck to bendy roads like glue in the summer, but was all over the place in snow on it's summer tyres. I also used a Peugeot 205 at work and in snow with winter tyres on the front I could stop on a snowy hill and set off again without skidding.
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Thanks for the advice folks, much to consider. I'm tempted to keep the car, it's just had a major service in December and no problems reported. I just don't know if and when any major parts will wear out. I'll think about it. Thanks again
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My 2008 (08) Octavia Elegance 1.9pd estate has been with me since new and has never missed a service at a Skoda garage. It runs beautifully, never uses a drop of oil and apart from normal wear and tear, has never broken down. It does suffer from surface rust on the sills near the front wheels and a bit on the wheel arches. It's done 112,000 miles with myself as the only driver and averages around 52mpg over a year (top up to top up).
Within a few months (hopefully) I expect to have enough money to change my car for something just a few years old. Our driveway is short but steep and is a real pain to clear of snow, and I'm tempted to buy something with 4wd as I'm getting less inclined to shovel snow now that I'm getting nearer 70. Whatever I bought would have to last me to near the age my current car is. I'm wavering between keeping my car or putting it in part ex for a newer one. Other than rust, are there likely to be any other problems with my current car, like exhaust system or clutch that would run up big bills if I keep it running? and would putting on all weather tyres solve the snow clearing problem?
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Thanks for your input folks, I've got a lot to think about. I used to run an Audi 90 quattro, so I know the benefits of 4wd. I also know that with the wrong tyres on 4wd is of little benefit. I'll probably discuss the options with my physio to see if there's any benefits with Automatic. Currently, but not always, after a long drive in the country my knee, elbow and shoulder joints are very sore. I'm not just thinking of now, but in 10 years I'll be in my mid 70's and more pain and shovelling snow of a steepish drive is the last thing I want. A great deal of useful advice from you all though, thanks.
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My 2008 Elegance estate has now covered 105,000 miles and is economical (52mpg) and reliable and has never let me down (only a headlamp bulb) other than wear and tear. The bodywork is excellent other than minor rust on sills and it has been main dealer serviced since new. I am shortly going to be able to afford a newer car at around £15,000 and rather fancy a Skoda Scout or similar as 4wd is kind of useful when it snows on us. I've also got ongoing arthritis and was thinking about an automatic car. I really love my 1.9pd estate but it's due a timing belt change later in the year and I've no idea of how long things like exhaust system and clutch (or other things) last. I don't want to have to spend lots of money in the future on repairs and renewals. Any thoughts on this....keep or change?
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Thanks all for your comments and advice, very useful information. I've had to bite the bullet and get the Skoda dealer to do the work tomorrow as I need the car repaired for a longish journey and the noise is horrendous and will attract the wrong kind of attention.
Thanks again everybody.
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1 hour ago, MicMac said:
Genuine VAG parts have a 2 year/mileage warranty as far as I'm aware.
You could say the friction material delaminated from the backing plate due to a manufacturing flaw.
Then again how old are the pads and is the caliper actually seized or are they just saying so. Most garages these days don't bother refurbishing calipers with new seals etc as it's cheaper/quicker just to junk them for a new item, and so the profits and excess manufacturing and recycling goes on...
As far as brake pad wear indication goes, only the front pads have this.
Calipers can appear to be seized and bind through no fault of their own, the cause being an incorrectly adjusted handbrake or rusty actuator cable.
The rear discs and pads were replaced in 2015 at 78,500 miles (these were the original pads), and at 99,300 miles the outer rear pads were observed to be 20% worn. The car has now 104,000 miles on it. It strikes me as odd that the outer pad only has gone and the inner one looks to have lots of thickness to it. When I say gone, I mean there's only the backing plate remaining. Surely, if the caliper had seized, then both pads would be affected. Another thing that makes me wonder at whether or not the caliper has seized is that the brake only grinds when I apply pressure to the pedal, yet once I stop braking, the noise stops, as though the caliper is releasing the pressure as it should.
Regarding your comment about refurbishing. In the past when I was younger, I used to dismantle the calipers and replace the seas and apply grease where necessary. It is far too easy for garages to just renew parts, but then maybe the labour costs for refurbishing them are greater.
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26 minutes ago, gav_is_con said:
I don't think any routine service would spot this happening. Unless the brakes were binding when the wheels spun or they spotted increased wear on one side. It's all visual checks.
You need to change pads on the complete axle both sides front or back. Pad wear indicators are usually only fitted to one side of the car.
Thanks for the info. I'm not so displeased with the garage now.
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5 hours ago, gav_is_con said:
Also check for signs of a sticky caliper as the likely cause of your issues.
I've had to take it to the main dealer as it's just across the road & the only way of getting it done quickly enough. They say that caliper is seized. I still cannot work out how that can happen with regular maintenance at the main dealership. Also don't know why brake wear indicator didn't indicate wear. Is it absolutely necessary to change pads on the off side as well - the garage insist it is, they are hardly worn and not a problem.
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I get always get my car serviced at a Skoda main dealer in the hope that everything will be thoroughly checked. Just a week ago my near side rear brakes started grinding a bit and I thought that it might just be a bit of grit between the pad(s) and disc and that it would drop out as usually happens. The grinding got worse this week so I took off the wheel and there is no outer pad left whatsoever and there's the start of a bit of cutting into the disc - not too bad yet when I run my finger over it, but it can be seen (and heard). Is it possible that it has just come away altogether? or maybe the inner part of the caliper has seized and the outer pad worn away quicker? The technicians report when I had the car serviced in December last year 2017 said that the outer pads were only 20% worn. Obviously, I need this sorted very soon, but I doubt that Skoda or the dealership will take any responsibility, or guarantee the parts. When I last had pads replaced it was an expensive exercise, so, as the car is 10 yrs old and due to be replaced this year, will it be a cheaper option to go to somewhere like Quick Fit? Oddly enough, the car electronics gave me no warning of wear.
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The aircon on my 10 yr old estate worked perfectly for about the first 3 or 4 years (I've had it since new). Then, although I had it serviced regularly it became very iffy, sometimes working well and sometimes not at all (which was a real pain on very hot days). I had it checked by the dealer & they couldn't find out why it was so unreliable. It was due another service / regas etc last year and, because of the age of the car, I decided to not bother and now, for the last 2 years, the aircon is working perfectly, giving me nice cold air after about 5 mins and maintaining a good temperature, no matter how long the journey. B.T.W. I never switch the aircon off.
2017 Scout - Mapping search function malfunction.
in Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020)
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I'll try that if it happens again. Thank You