Jump to content

inkeys

Finding my way
  • Posts

    30
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by inkeys

  1. Had my Yeti serviced today and despite regular servicing at the correct intervals, it would appear that both driveshaft seals are leaking and the oil is black suggesting internal failure. Any ideas or recommendations for places that rebuild or supply reconditioned gearboxes? I’m in the South East. Also some sense of cost would be great.

  2. 38 minutes ago, Gmac983 said:

     

    That's perhaps easier said than done when inkeys seemingly wants to do a economic repair. 

    Not exactly everyone has access to 3d printing and auto CAD or similar or indeed has the ability to create a "correct" CAD that modern CNC machines and 3d printers can read correctly, of course some 3d printers can laser scan a part to copy it but that makes them more specialized and perhaps not something that "someone" might have so readily. If inkeys is prepared for the expensive he would be better of taking the endcap from the other side running board to a 3rd party manufacturer or a machine shop to copy it. Really it depends how rough or indeed tidy inkeys wants his replacement part to be, if he was to get someone on a "homer" bases to do it instead.

    Or he could just source a block of black acetal or nylon and cut/file something to fit. 
     

    Yep. I think that’s my next move. Remove the other side end cap and create a close match using either drilled nylon block or get possibly even heat/bend some 3mm sheet plastic and trim to shape.

     

    • Like 1
  3. 1 hour ago, Roottootemoot said:

    @inkeys

    Sorry nothing really that near matches that.

    I would be making something up out of a piece of plastic shaped, glued on and painted. But i am a bodger.

    Thanks anyway. Appreciate the thought.

    My next step is likely the same as yours!

  4. Hi there.

     

    My 59 plate Yeti was specced with the Adventure pack, and as such has side steps/running boards. I’ve lost an end cap, though so does anyone have any old boards they no longer need, or know the part number.

     

    I’m guessing it’s a massive long shot finding replacement oem boards, let along spares but figured I’d look anyway.

     

    Thanks.

  5. Hi there,

     

    I own a 2010 1.2 petrol and just recently it's developed a problem. At low revs and gears it seems fine, but under acceleration on the motorway and under strain (up hills etc) the engine goes lumpy and feels like it's missing a beat; sort of stuttering. No engine or warning lights have shown up, so I'm slightly perplexed. Also sounds normal - just hiccups lumpy reductions in power.

     

    Any ideas?

  6. 14 hours ago, AwaoffSki said:

    Plenty complain about Yeti 1.2 TSI and front wheel spin and traction loss on OEM tyres and new Yeti.

    Thousands of others have no issues.

    Tyre pressures being important obviously and then that revvy little engine that can have a tendency to spin the front wheels, where the heavier diesel and those with also part time rear wheel drive then get a bot more help pushing as well as pulling

     

    I drove a 1.0TSI DSG Seat Arona yesterday, (smaller than a Yeti.)

    what a lovely car in comparison to a 1.2 TSI DSG Yeti even at wet / cold junctions.

    This I totally get. The little 1.2 is indeed a revvy little thing and maybe I’m also expecting too much from the traction control at times. Recently though, even pulling away from junctions even semi quickly has spun the tyres. 

     

    I find the the same thing happens on occasion with my vintage 3.2 litre BMW M Coupé but for very different reasons :)

  7. On 19/12/2017 at 17:04, 137699 said:

    Other than a cursory visual inspection the suspension is not fully checked on an annual service.

    To do a full suspension analysis you need to get the car onto a shaker. That will show up any undue play in any of the suspension joints.

     

    Either there is a suspension issue, or you have placebo brought on from thinking that your "no name" tyres must be rubbish.

    If the new tyres also create the same experience as the budget Goodride’s then I’ll think about suspension next. Luckily for me, the rears are not far from needing to be replaced anyway and I’m the type of person that ideally wants 4 matching tyres on my cars.

     

    Could be placebo; could be reality - guess I’ll never truly know - but I can say that peace of mind/positive placebo effect may be activated after Saturday and the new rubber fitted to each corner.

  8. 8 hours ago, 137699 said:

    There is nothing wrong with Goodride tyres.

    If you're having issues with grip I would suggest you firstly double-check the tyre pressures, then get your suspension looked at.

    Tyre pressures regularly checked and always fine. Suspension also fine and just back from annual service. My experience is they are not great tyres. Maybe I bought a car wearing a dodgy batch of rubber, but honestly - in my opinion - they’re not great.

  9. Thanks all. Good advice and I’ll check it out. Not expecting huge benefits on snow, and it’s unlikely to every really get the full white stuff experience anyway. Am a realist, so just want the best all rounder for dry, wet and cold conditions. 

     

    My current inherited tyres are Westlake SV308’s (aka Goodride SV308) and I kid you not; they are the worst tyres I have ever experienced. Even with decent depth remaining on them, in the dry they lose traction often and forget any confidence in icy conditions!

  10. My Yeti came with pretty much brand new no-name tyres that, although fine in the dry, are dreadful in the wet and on cold roads. I want to replace all four tyres and am looking for the following advice...

     

    - Any recommendations for all season tyres?

    - Would there be any issues with me going from 225/50-17 up to a higher profile of 225/55-17?

    (Seen these Toyo Proxies for just over £80 fitted....https://www.blackcircles.com/catalogue/toyo/proxes-cf2/225/55/R17/V/97/f?tyre=33016479)

     

    Looking to spend maximum £100 a corner.

     

    Thanks 

  11. Final update on this as I'm sure more people will be after the info. 3 hours later and the new passenger side temp sensors have been replaced (footwell and dash).

     

    Part numbers and costs for labour at my indy specialist, below.  Apparently it's a glovebox out job so nothing too severe.

     

    Success and passenger side warmth attained!

     

    20171115_142030.jpg

    • Thanks 1
  12. Also I just checked the passenger footwell and even with all heating direction buttons off but the system on 1 bar, it's still blowing air that footwell side. Drivers side footwell has no blowing.

     

    Could this mean an issue with one of the passenger side flaps maybe?

  13. 17 hours ago, kenfowler3966 said:

    Do you have it on the dual setting or single so both are the same?

    Dual could have drivers side heating and passenger side off.

    I've tried in both settings - individual and dual - same situation unless passenger side is set to red hot. Tried flap reset and still no joy.

  14. I own a 59 plate TSi SE 1.2 petrol and have an issue with my heating that I’m looking for advice on.

     

    Th drivers side heating works fine with providing warm temperatures, but the passenger side only provides cold air unless switched to absolute maximum red mode.

     

    Understand it could be a vent sensor but can’t seem to find the locations I need to check. Doesn’t show a problem on a vehicle scan either (just been in for its service and they quickly checked for me).

     

    Any advice gratefully received.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.