OGvRS08

was its the high pressue fuel pump that failed? - if so it can contaminat the fuel system with swarf and debris which clogs the injectors and fuel lines.

Many moons ago my 2008 2.0 TDi CR vRS went into limp mode and i wast told it was the EGR valve or maybe even the cooler by the garage (cant remember the code i was given as its well over a year ago!) but they couldnt be sure without further investigation. In my wisedom i just took off the EGR and cleaned it best i could at work and put it back on to get me through to pay day. The issue never occured again, i even expected to have it failed after i had the "emissions update" applied but its been fine - I have now had the software reveresed after VW/VAG cashed out and paid me for the full fuel system the update cost me - but i digress! So not a problem until last night when the coil light came on the car went into limp mode. I was sat at the traffic lights so simply turned it off/on and everythings run fine since. I ran the very basic code reader i had available to me over it and theres nothing showing up, it even says EGR system 'OK'? I will try and get someone at my usual garage to see if they will scan it tomorrow - if any major work needs doing itll go to them anyway. The reason im asking on here is: 1. I had to top up my coolant last week, something i rarely had to do before, i did see something suggesting that could indicate a leak in the EGR cooler? - can any one shed light on this? 2. MPG is down, ive also be told that could be an effect of a failing EGR valve? Any help or advice gratefully recieved - what should i be looking for?

thanks for all the feedback guys. yes the car went to the garage to be worked on - they didnt mention anything about the hub as well, just drive shaft on order in case they damaged the one on the car during removal. this isnt my usual garage the one next to the mapper who is tuning it, my usual guys will look at removing the nut for me and are convinced it should only mean replacing the CV joint not full shaft. another option which im not sure about is i have found a drive shaft of an estate thats done less miles than mine for £30 so dont know where to risk that and if its not need sell it on again??

No idea, i left the car with the mapper to do his stuff, he handed it over to the garage next door to remove the DPF and within 30mins i had call to say the nut was siezed and they didnt want to carry on as they were worried they might need a new drive shaft cos of damaging the thread and couldnt order til monday. told them i needed the car so they put it back together and i collected it 30mins later. I will have a look later tonight to see what ive been left with and which nut it is. so damaging the thread means a new shaft, not just a new CV joint?

Was meant to be having some work done on my vRS TDi in preparation for remap but it has all had to stop due a seized draft shaft nut, the garage fear they will mess up the thread which they say means a new drive shaft. Is that true that right, will i need a new drive shaft (OEM from TPS at £190+VAT) or can could i just have a replacement CV joint? TPS are also saying a OEM shaft will take 2 weeks to be delivered from germany (non available in the UK at present). Alternatively is there anyway i can check or remove the nut myself and then take the car back to them to complete the work - ie: soaking it in WD40 every day, 5m scaff pole/breaker bar, etc... anyone on here know of any tips or tricks people have used to over come a nut that wont shift? Any help greatfully recieved.

Are some models having additional work done to other (depending on age, model, etc...) I had my ABS update done yesterday, it took a little over 30 mins including the free wash and vac?

How much for the working cigarette lighter (socket and the lighter) and the "locking" switch beside it from the centre console?

Do you know the error codes they got from running the diagnositics? I hope for your sakes it the pump in the tank, otherwise its a very costly job! My high pressure fuel pump failed on my 2008 CR vRS after going into limp mode a couple of times on a journey - contaminated fuel system (tank, pipes, filters, pumps and injectors) with swarf, in the end i had to replace the full fuel system.

I had bought a complete set of news wheels and tyres from a member on here to get me back on the road. but i ended up keeping the best of the two that survived as my spare wheel, sold the other one another member who was looking for a spare and the two heavily damaged alloys were scrapped after speaking to a refurb company and the cost becoming to great to consider fixing.

yes i paid the £5,200 price from Skoda which included the VAT and came with 2 year guarantee on parts & labour as it was done through the main dealership. someone mentioned the MPG on diesel go down during cold weather but still thats rather large drop? i bought it very cheap with low mileage as it was a repossession on failure to pay the finance by the original owner, but i meant i got no log book or service manuals, only history i had was the paperwork to say it the dealer i bought it from had it back to clear the original debt, it was now clear of the HPI and as part of the deal when buying it had the cam belt service done as they had no record and didnt want to risk it - ive been trying build up service and maintenance history since owning myself, thought it would "tick the box" should i trade it in at a dealer. it was planned to be remapped shortly after but between the pump failure, 2 funerals and a house move within a 3 week period i had to put that on hold. up to the point of pump failure though i never saw a difference in performance and not enough drop in MPG to be bothered by having it done thats why im wondering this drop in fuel economy is linked the fix or something else, but if so what??

I bought my 08 (pfl) vRS 170 CR well over two years ago and enjoyed on average 480 - 520 miles from a full tank of diesel, even after the skoda "fix" done on new years eve i saw no drop in performance and hardly noticed a difference in the MPG, maybe a drop to 480 - 500 miles from a full tank. Then back in Feb. the car went into limp mode, before cutting out on me in traffic. I ended up being recovered by RAC and taken to local garage only to be told HPFP failure and the car needed a complete new fuel system due to swarf contamination. Being qouted £5800 +VAT by the RAC approved garage i spoke to a mate i train with who is a SEAT technican who offered to swing some discount if the car went through the local main dealers which he kindly did and i was qouted £5200 inc. VAT by Skoda (and 2 years guarantee on parts and labour). Now i can understand most people would walk away at this point and break/scrap the car, moving on to a new one but due to needing a car urgently and a number of other personal and finacial reasons i went ahead and had the work done by Skoda. On collecting the car it felt like an absolute animal, everything sharper and quickier to respond than before but i was putting that down to things being "new". A couple of days later i filled the car up and went back to my normal routine, same route to and from work (mostly quick A roads and few hills - usually in 5th/6th most the way), no change in driving style (i will push it from time to time but nothing extreme, standard over taking, not redlining it) - nothing different! So when it came to filling up again i noticed a rather large drop in my usuall mileage per tank, thought it was just a one off but ever since the fuel system install i noticed i am now seeing only 380 - 420 at best from a full tank!! Any ideas why, is this the dreaded "fix" or is there something else?

had my recall letter yesterday, called to try and book it in but due to christmas break they are rammed so unlikely itll be done before anyway.

JRJG is spot on with the suggestion to go to a number of clubs and see what suits you best - not every style works for everybody! If you want a family based martial art, then i would suggest a traditional based style such as Tae Kwon-Do, Kickboxing or Karate in a Dojo where you can practice alongside your kids. Nowadays the self-defence side of these martial arts are an extension to thier normal training and usually "borrowed" from other styles. If you want an 'all round' set of skills then i would suggest MMA as it usually combines the best of other more traditional martial arts, it would give you a base in a stand up/striking style (ie: Muay Thai, Kickboxing, Tae Kwon-Do, Karate) mixed with boxing, it would also give you basic ground based, wrestling or submission styles (ie: Judo, BJJ, Akido). I've training in ITF style Tae Kwon-Do (same as TAGB) for +20 years, but ive also done Judo, Wing Chun, Kickboxing and Boxing. I spent +14 years competiting at various levels and ive seen world champions in one style get beaten by "OK" competitors using another, they panic being out of their comfort zone - being calm and able to adapt to your situation is key. Knowing what to use and when. As someone said you dont want to be rolling around on the floor while others are kicking you on the face, but most fights usually end up on the floor so having enough to be in a better position than the other guy gives you an advantage!

it makes me think its not worth the time and expense to fix reading that. no idea - as both tyres were written off i had them removed so i could see the damage and not done anything with them since. id happily sell them to anyone who wants to take a punt on them as they are. i know what they are worth if i scrapped them and i doubt id get much more if anyone did want them. i cant a put a sale thread up as i havent been here long enough so keep an eye out on ebay!!

A few months back now i hit a pot hole/gully followed by a kerb which resulted in both passanger tyres written off and both alloys being damaged. Needing the car back on the road i bought a complete set of wheels and tyres from a fellow forum member as it was cheaper and quick to do so than wait for my car to be fixed and have new tyres. To try and recover my losses i have kept one of my original wheels and put it in the boot as the spare as it had a brand new tyre the week before the accident, and i have now sold the other wheel that was in good condition to yet another forum member, which leaves me with 2 alloys sitting in my office storage unit - but cant decide if they are worth the hassle and cost to fix with eyes to sell them or just scrap them? Front Wheel Back Wheel