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Kapper

Finding my way
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Everything posted by Kapper

  1. Hi, Pete. I'm using a rather cheap HEX/usb-thing, so I was a bit uncertain and suspected what you just pointed out - no F129 but G65 instead. Glad to hear I'm not blind - and that I can stop looking for it and focus elsewhere. Compressor won't kick in, so I'll have to figure out a way to test if clutch is getting power/data/else that tells it to engage. Right now it just seems offline/dead. Thanx a million for the quick answer, Pete! - Kasper
  2. Hello all. Car is a Roomster 1.6 petrol from 2008/2009 (BTS) with Climatronic. Aircon compressor won't kick in, and I get these codess: 01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71) 000 - - 00792 - A/C Pressure Switch (F129) 000 - - I hope you can help with finding the F129 - I can only find the G65 when looking on the car. I've checked service manuals, wiring diagrams and all, but I cant find its location. Any help will be much, much appreciated! All the best, Kasper
  3. Info: Skoda Roomster 2009 1.6 L (petrol) VCDS: 17.8.1 Hi, everyone. My cruise control does not work, and I've been fault-searching and eliminating usual suspects mentioned in other posts on the forum: Brake pedal switch: works (registers in grp 066 data fields) Brake light switch: works (registers in grp 066 data fields) Clutch pedal switch: works (registers in grp 066 data fields) Switch on stalk: works (registers in grp 066 data fields). 'Resume' and 'Set' buttons: (registers in grp 066 data fields). But I've come across something that boggles my mind: In VCDS -> 09-Cent.Elect. group 009 (Cruise Control System CCS) field #2 is says 'Not Oper.' consistently (see photo below). What is this refering to? What part of the CSS is not operating? What needs to happen in order for the to get activated? Field #1 switches between 'Not Oper.' and 'Activated' when I flip the on/off switch on the stalk. But what the hell is field #2? I hope some of you can enlighten me or lead in the right direction.. Best wishes and thanks, Kasper, Copenhagen
  4. Forgot to mention: I deleted the ABS fault code (00283) - there are no fault codes on the car since then.
  5. Car: Skoda Fabia mk.1 Combi (6Y5) 2003 1.2 12v htp 242.000 km // approx. 150.000 miles Hello, fellow Skoda-owners/enthusiasts. Short preface (feel free to skip to the current problem): My Fabia recently failed its Danish MOT because of an activated check engine light and a reading of emissions over the legal limit. Some time, before the MOT, I knew something was up, because the engine wasn’t exactly smooth, but after the fail I had to get it fixed. To make a quite long story short: by reading post on this fantastic forum, I diagnosed the problem to be burnt exhaust valves on a cylinder, took the engine apart, replaced valves and put it back together in my mother-in-law’s driveway – and now it purrs like a kitten. Having a master in musicology and very little experience disassembling engines – I was quite thrilled and happy with myself. 😊 What a great forum this is! Current problem: Here, I need to say that a couple of months ago, the ABS light came om permanently. Read some posts here and found the 40A fuse on top of the batt. to be blown. Replaced it – ABS all good until: Om my way back to the MOT, my ABS-light came on, my speedo gave weird reading, which were way to slow and the ABS-system kicked every time I touched the pedal. Pulled over, restarted the engine and everything was fine for the next 15 minutes. Then it happened again. Postponed the MOT and went home to investigate. Using VCDS-lite, I found one ABS fault code: 00283 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Front Left (G47) 35-00 I also took a drive while recording the speeds of the wheels: FL showed 1.0 km/h consistently, while the other 3 worked fine. I concluded, that the sensor was broken and had a mechanic replace it for me When I picked it up, he said, that the new sensor worked fine, but the ABS still was acting up and told me to call him, if I wanted him to figure it out. Been testing the car yesterday – here’s the current situation: · ABS light comes and goes – always accompanied by the handbrake warning light (regardless if the handbrake is on or off. · ABS system kicks in constantly – even at 3 km/h I read this in a post in the forum: ”Use meths to clean the reluctor rings also..........could be that the reluctor ring has developed a "dead" spot on it which causes the ABS sensor to skip........when it starts triggering at stupid low speeds every time you hit the brakes you have this problem.......happened to me........and it didn't show up fault codes on three readers.......only showed up when the dealer looked at the signal outputs from the sensors.........so new wheel bearing/hub units...as the reluctor ring is built in!!!!!” (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/251770-intermittent-abs-warning-light/) This made me record wheel speeds, and I found that the LEFT FRONT seems to act a bit strange from time to time – could this be a ’dead spot’? I have attached some pics/data to illustrate – the FL wheel seems to dip in speed for short amounts of time (which I know it didn’t in real life). I would love any tips, ideas, suggestions on how to proceed. How can I test this? Test other things? Can I inspect the sensor ring on the car? Clean it? Test wires/connections - how? I’m somewhat limited in gear but I have VCDS-lite, multimeter and basic tools. I could just take it to the mechanic, but I fear, he’ll just start replacing stuff – ABS modules and stuff. Therefore, I am keen on investigating and narrowing down possible causes/solutions. Thank you and have a nice day, Cheers from Kasper, Copenhagen
  6. Hello all. I've been reading a lot of posts on the subject of faulty temperature settings, but I still could use your help on this: Car: Skoda Fabia 1.2 htp 2003 My temp flap is all over the place - which seems to be a common problem. I've installed a used flap motor but it didn't solve my problem. I'm beginning to wonder if the potmeter in the temp control panel is faulty? It doesn't seem to respond when I turn the knop - only when I go all the way to the left (cold). If I turn it towards warm, it gets very warm after just a few clicks. I hooked the car up to my laptop and read the values as I turned the knob about a bit - and filmed it. Link to video: https://youtu.be/enLD1s8gAYw The specified value on the potentiometer G92 does not match my movements at all - would you think that the potentiometer in the knob is bad? IS the G92 under the control knob? Is it possible that a VCDS reset could do the trick? Any other ideas? All tips/advice are appreciated - thank you. Best wishes - Kasper, Denmark
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