hetty1

I have read all of the contributions now. The point about the line not aligning with the heat symbol and you just to keep turning the knob until you hear a click was very interesting and I would never have thought of that, I will try it when the weather gets really cold and damp and see if the heat works then The symbol may not light up as was said in the posts but if they are being heated its easy enough to pull in briefly and check the glass in the housing to see it it is warm/hot. Thanks very much to everyone, it does seem once again that the Skoda handbook is not as helpful as it should be and its not just me being ultra thick!

Yes indeed, you need to lift up the knob and then it works fine. If the handbook had said that I wouldnt have had any problem at all. I still havent been able to work out how to get the mirrors heated as the knob definitely cannot be aligned with the heating symbol. I very rarely use that function so am not too bothered about it, Maybe there is a temperature sensor that activates it when the cabin heating is on? That doesnt explain why there is a symbol for heating though as that suggests its something that I have control of whereas a sensor would take all control of it away from the driver? Both the mirror adjustments, the left and the right are on the right hand side of the knob, right at top right than 0 next then left hand nearer the bottom right. The heating symbol is on the left hand side of the knob but if you carry on turning the knob to the left you definitely cannot align the knob with the symbol which is why I think there may be a sensor involved. As I say, that doesnt bother me much at all and if it remains a mystery so be it. Thanks very much to all who posted and who put me on the right track.

Hello, I have got a March 21 Fabia estate in SEL trim. I tried to adjust the wing mirrors from within the car and got nowhere at all. I looked up the instructions for this in the handbook and expected it to be easy but it isnt, I used the rotary knob to go onto left and right and try as I might I couldnt adjust either mirror nor could I align the knob with the heat function. This is very frustrating to say the least. I would like to be able to do this if for no other reason than to reset them if someone knocks them, either accidentally or otherwise.I spent ages trying to get the glass to move but I couldnt do it. I tried joggling the knob, I tried pressing it but I couldnt get the glass in either the right or left hand side to move at all. I had interior adjustment of the wing mirrors on both my previous Skodas and only had to use it once when the milk or the paper was being delivered and one of the mirrors got knocked and that worked fine but this looks a bit different on this car. I dont want anyone to advise me to read the car handbook ; I have done that and am none the wiser. The handbook talks about arrows but I couldnt see any at all. . I have asked the Skoda garage to help but havent heard back. I could go to my independent but I dont want to be seen as a complete imbecile by either and am wary of the Skoda garage charging for the advice. I really need a step by step "idiot guide", nothing else is going to help and if I dont manage to get that on this forum I shall just have to forget about it . Thanks for reading.

Hello, I have a 21 plate Fabia 3 estate 95BHP in SEL trim. That has just been serviced at my usual independent. It was the 4 year Skoda service so it was new 0w2o engine oil, new oil filter, new cabin filter and new spark plugs and also a new Skoda sump drain plug and washer, All the parts were obtained from Trade Parts Specialists ( TPS) so I dont have any worries about any of the parts being sub standard, I have always found TPS to be really good, no problems ever. I went out for my normal weekly 40 plus miles round trip to keep the battery in good order and discovered the following. Before the service, on a motorway run , in warm but not extreme temps( 21 degrees C) the oil temperature showed as 97 degrees C . That was at speeds of between 70 and 80 mph with a very brief 85 to get past a dithering driver. Before the service, at about the same temps and the same road speeds it would show at 94 degrees C, i do not recall it ever going higher. Now I know that the oil has to get hot to do its job properly and 3 degrees C more isnt really that much more. My understanding is that the new spark plugs will give a better spark than the 4 year old plugs and that will increase the oil temperature. Likewise, I believe the new engine oil being that much purer than the stuff that had been in there for 3700 miles will also increase the oil temperature. Is my understanding of these two things correct? Because my wife has been very ill and is now in a care home, probably for life, I havent spent as much time as I used to really looking at the various things like oil temperature and reading the handbook. That will probably not surprise anyone reading this. However I did have a good look at the handbook today and it says the Mark 3 Fabias have a warning light and a message if the engine oil is too high. I have had the usual low oil pressure warning lights for quite some years now and low oil level too if I am remembering correctly. I am positive I have never had a warning light and message for too high an oil level in any of my previous cars. I realise the handbook does list things that vary by trim but I would have thought an SEL trim would have had this if it was listed in the handbook. Can my fellow Briskodians tell me whether my car will have had this from new? If I have it will be a "first" and I think could be a useful thing to have if a careless fitter had accidentally overfilled the engine oil. If anyone knows how overfill it has to be before the sensor operates and the light and the message come on that would be the icing on the cake to know. Thanks, I look forward to reading your posts.

Hello everyone, i havent posted on this site for quite a long time due to my wife being very ill and her issues being still unresolved .I am posting today because my car is with my independent in the town being serviced. The 3 year Skoda service schedule says engine oil changed and oil filter changed . I have also asked for the front wheel alignment to be done, have touched a few kerbs so am playing it safe. My post concerns the best brand of engine oil to be used. I have told them it has to be 0w20 viscosity but havent specified any particular brand. I have had various brands in the past, all the major ones. I carry a litre top up can of 0w20 that was given to me as a "freebie" by the main dealer who sold me the car. That brand is Miller and I havent had any occasion to use it yet. Having the car serviced today got me thinking about different brands of engine oil and whether any one brand has any advantage(s) over other brands. In short, is there a best brand or are they all about equal? Because I had a bad fall last year followed by my. wife being very ill my mileage since the last service has been very low, only 2400 miles. The year before it was a bit higher, 3600, still very low of course. I do completely understand the need for annual oil changes with such low mileage, absolutely vital in fact. I may be too late for specifying a particular brand for todays service but I would be really interested to know what my fellow Briskodians think. If the correct viscosity is used and it meets VW spec 5008 does the brand matter or are they all equal? Thanks for reading. /

Hello everyone, Recently I have experienced difficulty when using the starter button to start the car. It doesnt happen every tIme. Its not a question of the engine turning over but failing to start. When I disengage the clutch and press the starter nothing at all happens. If I try again the engine usually turns over and starts. This is a recent development; the car used to start each and every time I pressed the button. I havent used the car much these last 6 weeks or so due to not being able to drive following an accident falling off a ladder. I did start the car each week and had no trouble starting it. I will definitely press the button completely in as it may be I simply havent been doing that and see if that gives 100% turning over of the engine. It could be of course that the battery is low and I intend having a couple of motorway runs out of 20 miles or more with the air con and other accessories switched off . The battery is the original one, it is only the 49 amps per hour as it is the 95bhp engine so not that powerful but, having said that, it is not 3 years old yet. But it could be the culprit maybe? No warning lights come on. I might even try moving the automatic light switch to manual operation in case that has a bearing on overloading the battery or is that over the top maybe? I know others have posted about the keyless ignition not always working but unfortunately I cannot find the threads on Briskoda. I intend monitoring this but have to face up to the fact that the button assembly itself could have problems. I have thought about lubricating the button but am aware that might be counter productive and, maybe, make the situation worse. WD4O may be the way to go or it may not. I also have a couple of cans of Ultion lubricant which I use on the locks on my sheds; this is marketed as a high quality product and may be the way to go. What do Briskodians think of using either of these lubricants? If the assembly itself is wearing out and needs a replacement does anyone have any idea how much a replacement will cost, parts labour and VAT?, The car is still under warranty until early March 2024. I could try claiming under the warranty but I am not sure if they would cover it. Could they try to say its a wear and tear item and not covered by the warranty? Again, if any Briskodians have had experience of claiming this under warranty and what happened I would be really interested to learn about these. So, my first job is to get some juice into the battery and see if the problem goes away then take it from there. Thanks for reading.

I did take the rear wiper off the screen and did operate it as suggested. It was quiet, not noisy, just a hum. So it is the screen. I have taken note of the comment about some screen contaminants being very difficult to remove. I do not want to use even a mild abrasive and am not happy with using alcohol etc. I have used Autoglym Fast Glass on the screen and had hoped the noise would go or, at least, be much reduced but its the same as it was before using the Fast Glass. I have just got it out of the bag hoping to see the composition of it but no luck ,theres nothing on the container at all which is a bit disappointing. I will try it again and if it still hasnt, at the very least, improved the situation, I will revert to just using it occasionally in really bad weather conditions. I am not going to go over and over the screen. If it hasnt at least improved after two applications I am calling it a day on this particular problem Many thanks to everyone who posted.

No, I havent tried that but will try it.probably tomorrow. it makes sense, I dont know why I didnt think of it myself. If it is noisy in that position then its not the screen being dirty causing it its something else, the motor maybe or the wiring. Not noisy means the screen is the issue. Thanks to both of you.

They fitted a Bosch, they swear by them, they have a lot of Bosch products in stock. I will have a really good go at cleaning the rear screen and see if that helps. It looks clean but I will try cleaning it with plenty of warm water and a sponge, dry off with my chamois then use my Autoglym glass cleaner .

Thanks for all of your posts. I did get a new blade fitted by my independent but it unfortunately hasnt cured the problem. I am reluctant to use WD 40 or white vinegar on brand new rubber and am thinking its the motor playing up. It was like that when I bought the car in July 2022 and it hasnt got worse or better. If it is the motor I havent got the skillset to repair it or fit a new one. I have been on the internet to get an idea of part prices and labour costs ( both including VAT) and it is about a hundred pounds minimum, quite possibly more which I really dont want to pay. I dont want to bore the life out of you but money is tight for me( as it is for many others of course) and I will probably do nothing and only use the rear wiper in really foul conditions. I will also have to remember that if I am backing out of my drive and it is raining and I put the front wipers on the rear wiper comes on automatically even in very light rain. . So I will not use the front wipers until i have finished backing out. This is the first time I had any problems with rear wipers and I had them on both my previous Fabias and the three Vauxhall Corsas I had before them, going back to 2003. Just saying.

Hello , i have had a very noisy rear wiper since I got the car in July 2022. IT does work every time as does the rear washer but it sounds awful., a real screeching noise. I didnt bother trying to invoke the Skoda used car warranty as its a consumable wear and tear item and not covered. I dont use the wiper that much as I can pick and choose when I use the car as I am retired but if I was driving in all conditions as I used to be I would definitely have taken it to my independent. I had to use it today and it sounded like a buzzsaw so I spent some going through the various possibilities, The blade didnt look grubby but I cleaned it anyway between the leaves with an old( but clean) toothbrush. I made sure to use hot water and i regularly dipped the brush into the jug with the hot water.The brush had a black residue afterwards which I couldnt shift. I didnt have any white vinegar nor any rubbing alcohol, they are are not things I have need of in the house . I did make sure that the rear screen was really wet and took it out and tried it and it was just more of the s I used the rear washer a lot when on the test run to ,make sure the screen remained wet and the noise did improve slightly while the blade was in contact with the wash mixture but it was a very brief improvement. I went onto an Audi website before posting this and a noisy rear wiper did feature on that site on the Audi A1 and others. Some posters on that site said said the blade fittings were reversible and changing the blade around solved the problem. I tried this but it didnt help. I am ruling out wiring problems for the wiper because it has worked first time every single time I have used the stalk control albeit with an accompanying infernal noise. It is definitely the noisiest rear wiper I have ever had. On the balance of probablities I think it will be the blade and my cleaning hasnt hit the spot. I have had no problems at all with the front wipers and they get used a lot more. I suppose the fronts could have been changed by Skoda UK as they were the first owner but why not change the rear in that case? I looked at the checksheet from the dealership done before i got the car and there was nothing at all about wipers, front or rear. I shall take it into my independent this week as I know they wont rip me off and will be honest with me and if its a new blade so be it. Look forward to reading your responses

My apologies to George, you are absolutely right. The post should have been in either the general section or the Mark 4 Fabia section, Thanks AG Falco for your very thought provoking post. I found your post to be very helpful and I will be following your advice.

Hello everyone, I have been looking at the new Fabias in SEL trim with a view to buying one. I intended going down the part exchange route and buying a 1 year old or less with low mileage,t he 110bhp with the 6 speed manual gearbpx, I had assumed that the higher powered version came with rear disc brakes as standard but I was wrong, its an extra cost option. Very few of the used Fabias I have seen come with this option and I would like this on my next car.. Using car wow( or something similar) and getting quotes has shown me that I could get a brand new car for the same sort of money as I would pay for a used one with the same trim etc including the rear disc brakes. I havent bought a new car for many years now and that was another brand altogether so I am a bit rusty If I go down the car wow route there is the one Liverpool dealer who participates. my usual Skoda garage does not but I dont see that as a problem. I could either part exchange or sell my car for cash to my usual dealership. I cant see any particular disadvantages but I could be wrong, it has been a good while since I bought new and things do change. Have any Briskodians used car wow to buy a new Skoda and if they have did the process go smoothly or were there any snags? Thanks.

I had a similar problem last summer soon after I bought my Fabia 3 estate. The normal information display, oil temp, miles travelled etc went crazy and I got a screen that said the infotainment was switched off, This happened again a couple of times shortly afterwards. I contacted the sales department and they put it right and also showed me how to change it. They said it was a very common thing, they had had a lot of customer phone calls about it. I wanted to get it sorted properly and contacted the workshop manager who arranged for the car to come in under warranty. An update was applied and the cost to the dealership was about 32 pounds. The problem has not returned since. I posted at the time, I think it was about August last year. Hope this helps.

Peter 51, I was diagnosed with a failing water pump on my 17 plate Fabia 3 110 estate petrol in April 2021. The diagnosis came completely out of the blue while the car was being serviced by my independent at 26000 miles. There was a slight leak apparently. I had( and still have) absolute trust in this garage. I authorised the repair and a new water pump was ordered from TPS and fitted. The all inclusive bill was around the 400 pounds mark. I posted on Briskoda at the time about this. I didnt know anything about the VAG revisions nor, of course, the parts manager having to order so many pumps. I learnt from other posters about having 2 pumps and it was the electric one that had been diagnosed and changed. I think the replacement pump was plastic but I could be wrong. In over 50 years driving experience I had never had a water pump replaced and it definitely seems this part is poor quality. I have a friend who had the same diagnosis on his 19 plate Octavia petrol hatch and it does seem as though there has been a problem with these pumps for quite some time. It will be a real factor early next year when I decide whether to keep my car and buy a 4th year of warranty or change it for a non VAG product. I hope this helps.

George, I actually think Fabias have a lot going for them. They are not bad on interior space and have got some good features and I still like driving mine. You have a fair point; many do prefer function over style. Some other makes are more airy and have better visibility with fewer blind spots and these things do matter to me. I am not saying you are wrong, it all depends on what you want from a car and what you can expect from a car. My original post on coolant specification has run its course in my opinion. I am grateful to all those who posted and the various responses have definitely helped me. Thanks again for all your contributions.

Rum4mo, you are absolutely right, it is my decision and I have decided to let the level drop to min or just above then buy some G12 evo . I did get a response from aftersales to say the G13 should not be used. I still think the Fabia looks dated compared with other cars, especially the interior. You do not, of course, have to agree with me. I do not think logic plays any part in such things, it is always going to be subjective and we can agree to disagree on it. Thanks.

Hello AG Falco, The resolution. I will mention it to the dealer when it goes in for servicing to get it looked at under warranty but I am not optimistic. I think there have been threads on this forum that have said much the same thing about the GPS on the Fabia 3. Having said that i am still on a learning curve about GPS . I may be in the minority of people who actually like to read a map in printed form. By the same token i prefer reading a physical book with binding, a dust cover, tooling etc etc. I suppose I am saying that GPS difficulties on a car do not cause me as much concern as someone else and it was only ever a marginal minus. The thing that is a bigger minus is my comment about the Fabia being old fashioned/outdated. I test drove a Kamiq on the same day as I drove the Fabia and the latter just seemed to be outdated by comparison. It has, after all, been around for twenty three years now and the Kamiq for only three so probably not surprising. . On balance the pros outweigh the cons and I am leaning towards keeping the car. Reverting to my original post, I havent heard back from the service department yet which isnt good but I am hoping( against hope?) that this means I will get a fully considered response. Thanks. i

AG Falco, The images are not very clearly defined and are sometimes difficult to read clearly and hard to form a whole picture. I also have occasionaL problems with the voice function. It sometimes all works perfectly then you get a gremlin. This is the first vehicle I have owned that has built in GPS and my inexperience has not helped to be fair. i am fine with reading a map so GPS gremlins havent been the end of the world for me. Having said that, the GPS is still a nice thing to have even if I do use it more as a backup than a primary tool. To all the other posters, thanks very much. I know quite a bit more now than I did when I started this thread and that can only be good. i will wait a while and see what happens to the level then, if need be, I will buy a small container of G12 evo in ready mixed form for topping up. I do not expect the response from the dealership service dept to say that they are fully compatible, that would be very odd when the handbook is so clear about sticking only to the G12 evo but you never know of course and i will certainly read their response with great care.

AG Falco, Thanks for posting. I am honestly not sure whether I am going to keep the car or not. It has some good features like being quick off the mark and being able to climb hills easily and cruise easily at motorway speeds. Plus. a good spec like standard cruise control. Some not so good features include ( apart from depreciation. already discussed) a feeling that the Fabia range is nearing the end of its useful life and the GPS nor being great. Neither of these last two are crucial though, Nothing really bad. I will keep monitoring the coolant and hope it does as you suggest and stop dropping but, again, thats not really crucial unless and until it becomes a really big issue and needs a new expansion tank or radiator or water pump. The last two would definitely tip me into changing the car but, as I say, not sure yet. Freedom, that would indeed be good if the G13 and the G12 evo are compatible in small quantities so can be used for topping up. I will post again when i hear back from the dealers service department. They havent always been quick to reply in the past in which case I would contact the aftersales person who is usually very quick to reply.

Hello, i saw that my coolant level had dropped slightly the other day. The actual drop in level didnt and doesnt concern me. It was at max when I bought the car in July last year from a main dealer and it is now between min and max, a bit over 2000 miles driven so a very small drop in the level. I intend letting it drop to min before I add coolant and its the coolant itself that I am posting about. i have a one and a half litre container of VAG coolant concentrate, this is spec G13. I bought this for topping up the expansion tank in my previous Fabia, a 17 plate. I usually added a bit neat then went for a drive to mix it, it didnt need to add much at all, I must still have well over one litre left. I did ask the dealership when I bought this current car from whether i could carry on using G13 and they said it was. When I looked at my handbook however it said my car needed G12 evo. Anyone can make a mistake and that includes the dealership; I have emailed them just in case I can still use the G13 but I expect them to confirm that I cant. It doesnt help that there is nothing written on the expansion tank to say what coolant needs to be used. My previous Fabia had G13 written on the tank and I am pretty sure my car before that, a Mark 2 Fabia also had the coolant to be used on the tank. Why this wasnt continued with later Mark 3's seems silly to me. I havent been able to find out for certain when the change in spec happened or w I will probably buy a ready mixed container to carry in the boot, less bulky. If anyone does know when the spec changed that would be good. Again, if anyone who has an earlier Fabia 3 and is interested in buying the best part of my one and a half litre container and collecting IN PERSON, I live on the Wirral peninsula, I dont want much for it, five pounds would be fine. Thanks. Hetty 1.

I am glad that my post has produced such an exchange of views, I am sure that George intended no offence with his comments on salespeople being full of BS etc and I can honestly say I have not taken any. My own time in car sales was a long time ago and my family can look after themselves. Some car sales people can indeed still be very pushy and persuasive to the point of driving someone to buy a car just to get rid of the salesperson, Some still fit the stereotype but repeat sales do not often happen when the salesperson has acted like that and repeat business in sales, as in every other business sphere, is essential. Indeed, I would suggest it is more important now than ever. I digress, back to depreciation. Even before the current cost of living crisis there were a few cars that cost more used than new. Morgan Rolls Royce and Bentley come to mind. The essential difference is that was just a few marques whereas now it is commonplace. I would agree that depreciation on a 3 year old vehicle is approx 50% but, again, there are big differences between different marques. I may well be looking at a p/x of 10000 pounds when my car becomes 3 years old and I will have decisions to make at that time but that will be my problem My previous Fabia was p/xd for only 700 pounds less than what I paid for it some 30 months previously and a good chunk of that that was because the car had not had a cambelt change. One reason I posted was because I had seen comparatively few posts on the subject since joining Briskoda in 2016 and I thought (and still think) it was an important subject worthy of being aired. I realise this is a truism but different cars can have have very different rates of depreciation and the subject must be, at least, as important as fuel economy etc? This next isnt going to happen in my opinion but i would welcome adverts for new cars carrying detailed information on depreciation alongside information on performance, mileage etc. Yes, that information is in motoring magazines and online but that needs searching the internet and reading the motoring press and not every buyer does that. . They may well not take notice if my suggestion ever comes in but some might, I wonder what the SMMT would think about that proposal?

I agree with some of what has been said. I am not as sure though that trade prices peaked in late 2022, Members of my own family work in the motor trade, two with main dealers( not Skoda) and one with an independent, all in sales. They all tell me that the prices on used cars are still rising albeit a little bit less. I do follow Basin Humes argument about the trade price now being broadly the same as it was in July 2022. It has been a long time since I myself was in sales in the motor trade and nothing stays the same forever as we all know. At that time the introduction of a new model always meant lower trade in values on the superseded models and I still believe that is the case today. AG Falcos arguments are very pertinent. Buying new and keeping for a long time will indeed give low depreciation as he suggest. However, the matter of servicing and repairs comes into the equation. I am not gifted with practical skills so servicing has to be done by someone else. Whether this is done by a main dealer or an independent this obviously costs more than doing the work yourself and has to be factored in. AG Falco and others on Briskoda do their own servicing and repairs and their costs are less but mine are an integral part of how long I keep a car for. Those costs have definitely increased and I believe they will increase year by year. As the car gets older the servicing and repair costs will increase and it becomes a balance of how much to spend to keep the car safe and roadworthy as opposed to having to accept that the car is worth less to the trade the older it gets. I am grateful for the posts. I believe that there is no right answer to this. Some people including me will swear that changing every so many years is the only way to go while others swear by keeping a car for a long time is the only way to go. What will be interesting/.informative is whether the p.x goes down at the same rate as it has been going. There used to be certain percentages in the trade; so much depreciation the minute you took delivery then so much in the first year and so on. My car has lost 40% of its new price in just under 2 years. The consensus used to be that it would drop by another 10% by its third birthday then by lower figures year by year. These are very volatile times and the motor trade is caught up in the volatility whether it likes it or not and I believe this will continue for quite some time yet .

Hello, I got a part exchange price on my March 2021 Fabia estate tsi from the same main dealer I bought my car at in the middle of 2022. This came in at quite a bit less than I was expecting, between 10% and 15% less. I didnt take it any further but then I started thinking that depreciation was, maybe, really going to eat into the cars value. The facts are these. I bought it in July 2022 for 17495 pound at the top end of the scale. It had done 12000 miles. The price I was given in p/x last week was 14000 pounds with 14000 miles on the clock. As you would expect(?) I got several more p/x quotes from the web and the majority were actually less, one or two were actually a thousand pounds less,. The only one that beat the 14000 pounds was from Motorway and that said 14800 pounds. This got me thinking and my take is that the low( in my opinion) quote from the main dealer is because of the new Fabia range, the Mark four, introduced only in the last year or so. My car was 20500 pounds with the metallic paint when new so it has lost 35% from new in under two years, and a bit over 20% since July 2022, I had planned on keeping it until March 2024 when the warranty has finished but now I am not so sure. I can see myself being offered just 10000 pounds in p/x if I do that which would mean a depreciation of between 40% and 50% on what I paid and i will have to give that very serious thought. Do people agree with me that the introduction of a new model has been the main factor that has caused these figures? I have bought runout models from other makes in the past and i didnt experience these kinds of p/X percentages loss. I appreciate the worldwide shortage of chips will have played a part as well of course. Please let me have your views, they will all be read,

Hello, I am now on my third Skoda Fabia and both the previous ones needed the brake fluid changing at 3 years for the first change and every 3 years after that. My present one was first registered March 3rd 2021 and a friend has told me that this has now changed. They say the brake fluid needs changing for the first time at 2 years old and at 2 yearly intervals from then on. From memory a brake fluid change costs 7O pounds at the main dealer and my car has fourteen months left on the Skoda warranty so I am sticking with main dealer servicing so as not to give the dealership any let outs in case of a warranty claim. Yes, I do know that the car can be serviced at any VAT registered garage to keep the warranty but, frankly, I think the dealer would wriggle out of responsibility if I did that. I may be wrong but that is how I feel. So it would be an extra 70 pounds on the bill if my friend is correct. if what I have been told is correct why has this change happened? Just to make more money for the dealer or what? Why was it deemed OK to have the first change at 3 years on both my previous Fabias, a 63 plate and a 17 plate but then it changes in 2021? The fluid will presumably be the same quality or even higher and the the same quantity presumably, so why the change? 7O pounds may not sound like a lot of money to some but it is a lot to me in the current cost of living crisis especially when I am not convinced there is a valid safety related reason. Thanks for reading.