Jellon

The timing chain appears intact and still tensioned. I suspect something deeper in th engine has collided - and jammed it

Engine was running a bit more noisily than usual - then a crunch and it stopped completely. The starter won't even turn it over. I removed the serpentine belt and tried to turn it by hand and there is no movement at all. Looks like it is the end of the road for this one.

Hi - my 1.4 TDI recently broke down, shortly after a failed air con recharge. I wanted to rule out a siezed air con compressor. Although it may be something far more nasty. Can I remove the belt connecting the compressor to check relatively easily? Even if I have to cut it and replace

Looking in the Octavia forums - it seems you can replace the barrel and keep the same lock. I've got a second hand lock and will give it a shot

Thanks - that makes a lot of sense. I've had the same issue with various things where the loom runs across a hinge.

Well yes... But ideally not without you pressing any buttons.

@welsh1954 - I believe I have the same problem. How long a job is it? Did you find a decent YouTube vid in the end? The Haynes instructions look reasonable, but lack many photos.

I've had a 2010 model for around 5 years - and it had this issue when I bought it. It hasn't really got any worse in that time. Basically the ignition barrel is worn and you need to pull the key slightly towards you before you turn it. It then starts as normal. You can feel the play in the barrel - the key can move more than it should. The main issue I found is that if the steering lock is on and you are on a slope - then it can be very difficult to turn the key to switch the lock off. The only solution is to have someone gently push the car or to try to rock it yourself. It is then possible to turn the key. Does anyone have a DIY fix for this - or is it a case of a costly barrel replacement? Thanks

So.... lots of strange electrical gremlins that have crept in over the past couple of years - and I wonder if they are all related to the same dodgy wiring loom or connections. All of these issues are temperamental, and can often be 'solved' by a gentle whack or by driving over a bump! Rear wiper occasionally works properly, but will stop altogether sometimes. Often restarts after going over a speed bump! Central locking sometimes locks the doors automatically Boot doesn't always unlock with the central locking. If you open the rear door and slam it, then it opens. The driver window button sometimes doesn't work - but can be fixed by bumping the switch - probably can be easily sorted by a new switch or cleaning the connection I realise it is starting to sound like a clown car here.... but it is an excellent, reliable vehicle - apart from the electrics starting to give up after 14 years. Does anyone have any obvious fixes or place to look?

Solved it's definitely a single H7 bulb that powers both dipped and full. As @skomazsays there is a shutter in the reflector to toggle. An upgrade to philips facing vision makes a significant difference.

Reading a few posts that suggest there is a clever mechanism in the projector that switches the single H7 to dipped. That would explain it. Can anyone here confirm that? Thanks

When I take off the rubber cover there is a single H7 bulb in there - that seems to do the job of full and dipped

Hi - I'm looking at getting some upgraded Philips racing vision bulbs. Am I right in thinking that the projector headlights use a single H7 bulb for dipped and full beam in the mark 2 fabia? I can't see another bulb - but most places suggest you should have 2 bulbs or an h4. Haynes manual and Halfords search was inconclusive!