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Tomjones1995

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Everything posted by Tomjones1995

  1. I usually replace the tyres in pairs so on the front I have Uniroyal rainsport 5, and on the back I have Avon ZV7. Back ones are worn down just onto the wear markers now and the fronts have plenty of tread. Pressure is 30psi in rear and 35psi in front. I have moved them around from corner to corner. To put it briefly.... New front tyres (Uniroyal) in December. Wheels vibrated before tyre change and after. I assumed it was a buckled alloy so kept the tyre on the same corner and swapped offside alloys front to back so all tyres in sane position just swap alloys around. Vibrating stayed same for about a week then it got major bad, whole car vibrating over 40mph. Took it back again keeping all tyres in same place and using the full size spare in boot swap offside front alloy for the boot one. Still vibrating very bad. Last thing I've done was then swap the two wheels around offside front for nearside front and a dramatic improvement but only to the point that it was in the beginning. So essentially I've come full circle to beginning with some vibration which I've had for a while to a random load of vibration from the offside front tyre and then once swapped it's now back to some vibration with wobbling at speed. Sorry for the lengthy post, but that's what I've done so far. It appears to me something has damaged the offside front tyre to cause the extreme shaking over 40mph that I had and all the vibration could be just the buckled alloys?
  2. I see. I do have a couple of buckled alloys myself but was told that they could be balanced out. I would imagine the buckles could be causing the vibration and could also accelerate wheel bearing wear too I would imagine? And potentially damage tyres or not do you think? Thanks for the help, Tom
  3. So was that a buckle they were suggesting?
  4. I'll just stick with the wheel bearing then and see where that takes me. Thanks for all your help I'll be sure to post an update once it's been into the garage
  5. Yeah that's what I thought would perhaps be the reason why. The car is 17yrs old now too and on 178k on the original front shock absorbers too. They don't seem to bounce more than once with a bounce test but again as with the bearings, it must be bouncing when driving at speed and with the cornering. They don't seem excessively worn but given the mileage and age of them I'm wondering would they play a part in bouncing the wheel like a basketball without me noticing do you think? Thanks again to you both for the help
  6. Could it still be a wheel bearing if it's smooth when you spin the wheel while stationary on jack stands and it's smooth? I was thinking that it may be just starting to go and perhaps that's why it's so smooth when spun on jack stands and perhaps at speed and all the cornering etc it's got much more pressure on it?
  7. I thought that, ticks all the boxes except it doesn't have any play when you rock the wheel side to side, up and down.
  8. Hi Guys, I was hoping for a bit of advice please. This has been going on for a little while now but basically I have a tyre rumble a low speeds driving around town and it wobbles when I turn the wheel slightly left or right at 70mph on the dual carriageway and continues to rumble at that speed too. It's not tyre balancing and it's not a defective tyre either, that's been ruled out. Any suggestions as to what the cause could be please guys? Many thanks, Tom
  9. Hi Roger, thanks for sharing your experience and solution of a similar problem. I haven't managed to fix the problem as yet because I haven't been able to locate the air leak that's entering between the filter bowl and the injectors as I was told on the forum that that may be the cause. The starting appears to of improved significantly over these past few colder weeks which may suggest it's not a fueling or vacuum leak issue at all, I'm not too sure. I'm just trying to manage the problem as best I can for now and then may be see about getting it relooked at in the new year Thanks again, Tom
  10. Yeah I think it's no 7 too. It looks to be the right pipe shape. Thanks for taking the time to look that up for me 👍
  11. I know this isn't the best picture, but does anybody know the part no or the name of this top boost pipe please? The boost leak is progressing and it needs replacing asap. Thanks in advance, Tom
  12. Nothing I guess. I'd researched online and aparantly the kPa numbers drop the more you floor it, but as you explained, that's not the case Thanks for the explanation and help 👍
  13. Sorry to be a pain but does anybody know whether '100.0' for the MAP (kPa) is correct for idle? I've checked it with the obd2 device and when I rev in neutral it jumps to 155-120 kPa? And I thought the number is supposed to drop when you open the throttle, not increase Any help if advice would be greatly appreciated Tom
  14. Yeah it could be. But where could that of come from though? the tandem pump doesn't have oil in it does it?
  15. So does that mean that the pipe to the rear of the tandem pump is coated In leaking fuel perhaps?
  16. Also seeing as I'm asking stuff, does this egr pipe look shot to you, I'm guessing this would be a slight boost leak considering the external soot build up??
  17. Hi Guys, just a quick question. Does this tandem Pump look like it's leaking and also, what does the pipe at the back do?? Is it for the brakes or fuel? Thanks in advance, Tom
  18. Yeah thanks, no more bouncy bouncy haha So relieved to of sorted it now, much more like the car I bought
  19. Just a quick update I decided to take the car to yet ANOTHER garage further away from my home because the MOT fella didn't bleed my brakes properly twice so I'd lost trust in him. So this new place changed both front springs and said the brakes were still full of air despite me going back to the the MOT fella to bleed them and now the car is much much better thank goodness Thanks to everyone for the help and advice, It's much appreciated Tom
  20. Oh right yeah that's a possibility 👍
  21. Thanks, Yeah I know about the paint splodges but I can't see them on my original springs so I'm guessing it's been worn off :/ What a merry dance these mechanic's are sending me on indeed! I'l be contacting him on Monday with this info and I'll update you all in due course. Thanks again Guys
  22. Just a quick question. Does anybody know if 'Monroe' even does springs for a Fabia Vrs/ Polo GT TDI? Because I've had a look on Monroe's online catalogue to see what springs they say are available for my Polo and they only have 2 variants which BOTH are cross referenced with STANDARD VW spring part numbers! Which would suggest it is in fact the wrong spring! Edit: Sachs online catalogue for BLT engine: 6Q0 411 105 N Monroe 2 variants for BLT: 6Q0 411 105 AK 6Q0 411 105 AJ 6Q0 411 105 AH Cross referenced with the catalogue link that TMB gave me: https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/polo+derby+vento-ind/po/2005-253/4/411-411010/ Monroe's appear to be for standard cars ONLY! Thanks, Tom
  23. So are you suggesting that you feel it may be the incorrect spring as well'? Also, how could I measure in mm how much the suspension sags please? They are surely far to smaller increments without specialist equipment?
  24. I can't understand why he didn't just change them as per my instructions. Even if he was trying to save me money, the drop in ride quality is definitely not worth the saving even if I was looking to save money which I'm not. The issue I've got is, I don't have any jack stands or a jack but otherwise I can see it's a pretty straightforward job. Thanks for going to the trouble of locating a guide though for me 👍 It does really further reiterate the point though that he should of just changed the springs as well as the rear shocks given how simple they are to do. There's no way I'm going to feel the full benefits of them new shocks with 16yr old springs, absolute madness and of course the front struts and nearside spring they're 16yrs old! 😩
  25. No I don't think I could to be honest. I lack the experience of such jobs. Plus I think it's the new front spring that's been fitted that's causing all the bouncing. I'm not sure if it's the fact the front springs haven't been changed as a pair or whether it's the wrong type of spring that's been fitted, I've been reasured it was a sport spring but I've no evidence of that. The only way I can describe it is if you've ever driven over a humpback bridge quickly and felt your belly jump, it's like that only driving over mini humpback bridges almost continuously. It's rather nauseating, I have mentioned it to the mechanic that fitted it and he said that he felt it on a test drive and to give it time to see if it sags to the height of the 16yr old nearside spring because the new offside one is slightly taller due to being fresher and has suggested that COULD be the issue. I tell you if I had £1 for every time a tech said 'That could be the issue' or 'I can't find the fault that your talking about' I'd be a very wealthy man indeed.

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