Tomjones1995

Thank you to all of you for your help! As always, very much appreciated. Kind regards, Tom

I'm just wondering now, does any I've been to look at it today and I've taken the hose by the air filter and Maf sensor off in better lighting and there's a lot of oil in there along with shards of metal. Also when running, there's a suction on the inlet by the Egr and Asv valve but there's a blow on the inlet by the PSV valve which I would say is exhaust rising up through the intake along with the oil. I'm assuming that this is definitely turbo failure at this point? Many thanks, Tom

Thanks for the explanation, that sounds quite similar to what I thought as well. I also believe that it is most likely an air intake issue. As for the air filter, I'd removed the hose just passed the maf sensor to try and it didn't start then either, so I'd say the air filter is okay. I will check the pcv valve before I put all the blame on a failed turbo. But I would say it's not looking good at this point. Thanks very much for the help so far, Tom

I'm still in the process of diagnosing this and I've got it booked into a local garage that can hopefully diagnose it but I was just wondering if you guys can help me with understanding the exhaust gas route from the engine please. How does it get from the exhaust manifold to the back box? The reason I ask is I'm struggling to understand why the engine freely fires up without the 90 degree pipe leading to the ASV but can't start otherwise.

Yes I guess that makes sense.

Just a quick update: I've had a look inside the Egr passed the asv and it doesn't look too bad for carbon. I can't reach the intercooler to check it but the hose that comes out of the top is coated in oil, but it has been that way for some time to be honest. I don't know if that points it more towards the turbo leaking oil over time. Still no codes on the dash either, which is strange

It looks okay, there's a bit of carbon build up on the flap inside but only minimal. I've just realised I'm talking about the ASV and not the EGR, I will endeavor to check the egr valve as soon as I can get to the car! I'll keep everyone posted. Thanks

Will do, thank you! I'll keep you all posted

Thanks, yes I'll check those but I'd be surprised if that's the culprit for me. I would have thought if that was the case for me, it would at least be able to start as it did for yourself.

Yes as I said earlier, I have scanned it a few times, but there wasn't any codes at all. I agree there should have been a code but no.

Thanks Pete but no, it's definitely open. That right angled hose is the one I removed to get it started, once that hose was back in place, it refused to restart

Thanks for replying, I have had a mechanic out to scan it for codes but it doesn't have any. Thanks for replying. I'm not sure, I didn't hear any bangs or have any black smoke out of the exhaust which you usually get from blown turbo. Could the turbo just seize up quietly and then cut the engine out like that?

Hi guys, I was wondering if anybody can help shed some light on what could have caused this please. I was driving the car uphill, full throttle and then the engine just cut out and refused to start. I've checked a few things and eventually got it to start without the turbo pipe that's connected to the EGR in place but it cuts out when I try and pull the clutch up, even with my foot to floor. I'm not sure if that points towards an issue with the intercooler, turbo or maybe something else? Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance

Oh right I see thanks. I did notice that the needle didn't move until it reached about 50°c using the OBD reader as a reference and then once it reached 70°c, it did seem to line up with the correct place on the gauge. Also, I did find the heat output from the heater at the 70°c mark fairly warm, just not quite warm enough which getting the engine temp up to the 90°c would probably get it to. So I feel the heat output from the heater also corresponds to the 70°c temp readings being accurate in my view.

It's been a couple of years to be honest. The stat was changed in January due to this issue and the problem persisted for the rest of the winter but did ease once the summer arrived as you say. I tested the heater when it was hot weather and it came out nice and warm but now I have to run it for 30 minutes or more before I get much heat. It certainly does seem to point to a faulty stat I think.

Oh right I see. I think it is probably worth me changing the thermostat again then using Genuine parts seeing as it was an aftermarket thermostat that they used to begin with. Hopefully that will fix it.

Yes I suppose that's a possibility. Do you know if the OBD2 reader gets its data from the coolant temp sensor or from a different place? Because I did notice that both the needle and the OBD2 reader were getting the same readings.

Thanks, I thought that would be it as well but I've had that changed earlier this year.

Hi guys, I was wondering if anybody has any idea why the coolant temps are staying between 65-70°c? It also took around 30 minutes to reach that as well with an ambient temp of 7°c. The heater also takes a while to warm up too. Many thanks, Tom

Yeah that's the thing, it's quite soft around the hole as well so I expect the patch is going to end up being quite big. Yeah it's not just a flat piece to try and weld in. I'll try and get some quotes for the repair from my nearest welders and take it from there. Thanks for the help and advice everyone 👍

I was thinking it's an awkward place to weld a patch in to, so I wasn't sure if it'd be able to be repaired.

Hi guys, just wondering what you guys think about welding a patch over this rust behind the wheel liner on the offside front arch. It's gone quite soft and crumbly around the hole but I was just thinking is it worth the hassle?

Looks awesome!

Gosh, that must of taken ages, looks like a good job. I wish I had the DIY knowledge to do welding myself and the equipment. It's hard to find welder's around that will do extensive work like that these days.

Here my second polo 9n in better condition than the welded one with the loose undertray. Would you say that the inner sill would probably of perished from the inside out so to speak? Is it worth me wire brushing that off or would that be a waste of time? I'm only looking to keep one of these polo's and I'm trying to decide which one is in the better condition