Tomjones1995

Thanks for the advice 👍 I'l have another look tomorrow for another car making mileage less of a deciding factor and way up my options. This Polo GT of mine has been a great car when it's not in the garage and I could see myself keeping it seeing as I've spent so much already but I can't keep it forever so it's good to have some advice on what I could do now and in the future Thanks to everybody for the advice, much appreciated

So in a nut shell, younger lower mileage cars are more expensive to run but on the other side of things, an older car could be more expensive in replacing many parts that have worn with age as I have been doing with my current vehicle That story is very similar to mine. My 05 Polo 1.9TDi has been a bit of a 'lemon' you might say and I've spent a fair pretty penny on fixing many things and I'm at the stage where I feel it's a money pit and am considering replacing it. But it sounds from your story that I may be better off trying to weather the storm of problems until their isn't anything else to replace because I still like the car

I mentioned the 2016 car because as I understood it, your advice was that an older car, even one as young as 10, would be perhaps too old and higher mileage and would therefore be an unreliable option as would the lower mileage 16yr old car and that your were implying I chose a much younger, lower mileage car. But as you say, buying from a trade seller with a warranty would probably be my best option which could theoretically give me the option of both the before mentioned choices to safely negate any potential disasters within the initial 6 months or so. It would certainly prevent them from selling me a dud car. Thanks for all the advice! Tom

So basically both vehicles are too old to be considered 'good' options? The issue I have is that I don't have a mechanically minded friend and my budget can't stretch to a 2016 or younger low mileage car

Thanks for your reply. So to clarify, In your opinion a lower mileage older car could potentially be a viable option provided it has been serviced well each year? Buying a car with the mileage north of 120-130k would worry me that it may become problematic due to the higher mileage

Hi everybody, I'm just wondering if you could possibly give me some advice please. As some of you may know, I've had my fair share of problems with my car over the years and I'm now considering part exing it for another car. What are people's thoughts on the topic regarding younger car + higher miles Vs older car + lower miles? Obviously how well it's been maintained is a factor to consider bit more generally speaking. Which is the best option in your opinion's? Thanks in advance, Tom

Oh right, In that case I'll bear it mind. Thanks again, Tom

Thanks for the advice, but steel rims aren't for me. I'd be leaning more towards buying second hand like for like replacements for my existing alloys. Thanks for the help, Tom

Yeah it certainly seems that way. The original tyre shop I went to informed me this morning that all of my alloys have buckles so if that's to be believed, then perhaps the alloys which are now on the rear are in better condition than the fronts which as you say, would explain why I didn't feel it until now. Completely agree, they mentioned last year that I had a buckle on one front wheel, so I went and swapped it with the full size spare in the boot which they reckoned at the time was good BUT that alloy is the worst one now! Safe to say guys, i'l be deciding pretty soon whether to replace or recondition these alloys ASAP

Okay, so I've been to another tyre shop today to confirm that their is in fact a buckle on BOTH front alloys though only slight (I watched them balance it myself as proof) and they rebalanced them as well for me but their is still a shaking?? Could there be anything else or is it just the slight buckle of the two fronts? Thanks, Tom

Thanks for the advice 👍 I'l try and take the car tomorrow morning to a tyre shop to find out if there is indeed a buckle on any of the alloys because I agree with you it's looking likely. I also did have for a while like a sort of pulsating 'thud this thud when braking hard which I put down to warped discs on front but perhaps it's been buckled alloys all this time. I'l keep you posted Thanks again for the help, much appreciated

I'm guessing the XL's would be better on the back then? And what's your thoughts on alloy wheel reconditioning? Thanks

Yes they are XL. Does that make a difference?

Thanks for replying. What I can't understand is how can it be worse after the tyres are replaced? That part of it makes no sense to me

Hi Guys, I took my car into a garage last year for some work to be done and the mechanic swapped the wheels front to back which I'd never done before and since then then wheels have been shaking. I then took it to a tyre shop for all 4 wheels to be rebalanced, didnt fix it, then I returned, they said I had a buckle in a couple of the alloys which makes no sense because I didn't feel it at all before and the mechanic says there's nothing to be found wrong with the car otherwise. I eventually went back to the tyre shop a couple of times for rebalancing because the tyre shop said the weights keep falling off and VW alloys don't hold weights properly which STILL hasn't fixed the problem which made me think it was tyre related. So I waited until the tyres were worn out and in need of replacement and hoped for the best. Now I have two brand new front tyres on, its 10x worse!!! I know its a long shot but does anyone have any ideas what's wrong? Its due in for a clutch & flywheel on thursday and i'm not a huge fan of the idea of paying the best part of £1,000 for this shaking to continue. Thanks in advance, Tom

Thanks for the help Sep! 👍

Brand new Clutch and DMF is being fitted in the next few weeks. What do we think? It'l be on 170k by the time I would have the map done. Too high mileage, too late? I trust all of your opinions after my HG business a couple years ago and obviously after doing so much work on it getting it up to a decent standard, I wouldn't want to kill it from a remap but would love one if it's safe to do so. Thanks, Tom

That's great news Sep! Do you reckon I'd be good for 170bhp with a standard side mounted intercooler without compromising reliability or would the engine get head swamped? Thanks again, Tom

Hello again guys, Just a quick update. The problem I believe must of been the door bellows as the rubber hose/tube protecting the wires had come away from the main body of the car and was probably leaving the wires exposed to all that frost we had. It's all fixed now though so thanks. I do have a shirt quick question unrelated to this but I don't want to start a while new thread for it. I'm after a remap and darkside reckon I need a fmic for stage 1 because of inlet air temps getting too high. Is this true or false? Absolute requirement or just ideal? Appreciate any input on this please guys. Tom

Oh right okay, thanks for your help Sep!

Is there anything I can do to stop it or do I just need to manage it as best I can until this cold snap passes?

Oh right, what do you reckon it is then Sep?

Does anybody think it's battery related? I was supplied a Yuasa YBX3075 by a garage a couple of years ago in an emergency when my last battery died out of nowhere. Does it matter what battery a car has and if so, is this one strong enough for my car? Thanks, Tom

Hi Guys, Hope everybody is well. I was wondering if anybody had an ideas as to what could be the culprit to this issue. The car randomly starts clicking unlock repeatedly and doesn't stop until either the battery completely dies or I intervene by starting the car and locking the doors from the inside as though to "reset" it. Also this has only started this last couple of weeks with freezing temps Any help is, as always, very much appreciated

Oh right, wasn't aware that was a possibility. How would I go about checking that please? Thanks, Tom