wodgey

Made progress and confirmed diagnosis. dead starter. grabbed a couple each male&female spade connectors and tested continuity between Bat+ and starter+, Bat+ and solennoid cables(when key turned) & Bat- to gnd strap starter side. All tested good. bridging 12v to the solenoid pin did nothing. NO life whatsoever, only the fettid smell of death. Oh, the resistance from solenoid pin to ground was all over the place (I'm guiessing there's a capacitor or two in there and wierd resisnce reading isn;t actually strange behaviour, I am just mentioning in case it is somehow relevant) New starter motor is currently 4 stops away, in the back of a prime waggon. I was helping clear out a flat last night and saw on my mates desk, my windscreen wiper arm puller, and took it back as he no longer using it. Came in so handy today, for removing the gear cable assembly. top long bolt removed. I didn;t have my ikkle 2" 1/2" sockeet extender so couldn;t get past the annoying bracket underneath, but that shouldn't cause any struggle once I have it. I saw anpther annoying connector or two down on that side of the gearbox that I hope All things going well, she should ride again tomorrow. my thanks to you both this was a lot easier job when doing on my long-dead vauxhall vivaro 2L. If memory serves, it was easier to get to and an allen key ( although swings and roundabouts, the engine in that died due to nissans timing chain)

Thank you. yes, 13 sounds right, compared to my memory from earlier today where I stared at it for several moments. Pondering if it would be so simple, as to just undo the spindle bolt and pry off the interfering/offending selector lever. I will try that tomorrow. I didn't try today because I wasn;t sure if I needed to do anything extra, with the cablemounting assembly, further back on the gearbox, closer to the firewall.

Nice one! appreciated

AH-ha. Yes, thank you, this is exactly the annoyance that is getting in the way. I've seen the link on this site with downloads for workshop manuals. I need to figure out how to remove linkage assembly which I presume means I need to figure out what gearbox variant I've downloaded the 4 pdf's for gearbox variants 001 (i know this is auto), 002, 02R and 0A8 and need to compare them in the daylight, against what I have under the bonnet

I appreciate the diagram for the locations My question was "how remove without rounding/how get a socket on the bolt in question?" rather than "where/which bolts"

Kinda, yeah. the wire is still in-situ and doesn't quite feel broken inside the insulation (but I am aware it could be broken still). I am unsure where the other end goes to, so haven't checked continuity I removed the connector (accidentally breaking the locking red clip, in the process), dribbled in some isopropyl alcohol and repeatedly re-seated the connector multiple times. I now hear the delightful click from the solenoid but with no cranking (I have not ruled out low battery from being drained by interior lights and window motors, but I don;t hear the starter trying to turn/engage the flywheel) I am working on the assumption that with my luck, it will be the more costly/difficult problem to fix, and wanted to know how other people deal with that top bolt without rounding it.

I'm trying to remove/diagnose a non-cranking issue with my ikkle fabby. I can remove the battery tray and whatnot but am struggling to remove the top bolt. I've removed the gnd and 12v starter cables. The gear linkage attached to the gearbox are in the way stopping me getting a socket down there, and spanners feel like I'm rounding off the bolt 17mm seem to small and yet 18mm want to round off

Hi all. My "small" coolant leak has become much much bigger and I suspect water pump because of how/where the grime is showing. I have looked at a couple youtibe vids and reckon it is something I can tackle myself. Unsure which engine code I have and what pump/belt kit to purchase I have mk1 2007 1.4 16v reg YR07MOU Can anyone point me where to find the engine code, or can it be looked up from my model/reg? thanks in advance

I hunted out a rusty old wood chisel and a few "precision whacks", it came loose. the other side came out fine luckily but the bolt remover did the trick for the other 4. for me they were hex head (regular "bolt" type, not allen key/torx) that were so rusted that an 8mm spanner was too big.

I like the idea of trying to tap with a chisel. I couldn't get purchase using the grippy plumbers wrench thing, but if I can loosen it with a chisel then that could work. The replacement screws I got from Amazon, and I deliberately went for galvanized. Currently wrecking my brain to see if I can remember where my little creme brûlé blowtorch currently lives.

How the fluck do I get to the "top \middle" bolt? I've purchased a removal kit for rusted rounded nuts and bolts, but I'm struggling to remove the final one, because the bearing is in the way. Any tips or tricks would be appreciated

I've just removed it by cutting an inch wide strip of plastic, from a 5 litre oil bottle and sliding in from above. Attack at the gap between the door card and the handle\switch assemble. Took less than 20 seconds on my first attempt. My question is what size of the torx screws likely to be?

HI all. Just got a new (to me) 2004 1.2 HTP. Well maintained and for a great price. I have years worth of detailed invoices, all from the same garage. Less than 76k on the clock with decent feeling clutch When reveiously enquiring about a different fabia, regarding stiffening her up, I was told before to "swap the entire corners from a VRS" - I like this idea for this ikkle car also. I can see my front discs will need doing next time AND the rear corners have drums, so VRS brakes would be lovely. there are several breaking VRS's on that famous auction site but unsure what to ask for and what a good price to pay is. Does asking , "How much for the entire front corners? from the leg down to the hub, including all the discs,calipers,hoses etc?" ??? Would I be better off asking for wishbones also? (mine have a lot of surface rust that I haven;t explored yet) Is it easy to swap drums for discs on the rear? will I need different brake pump/abs unit? is it easy to do, once the new lines are flared and in-situ?

Marvellous thank you. I'll look at this Thursday when I'm off work

This issue mostly disappeared not long after I reported it. it would randomly reappear occasionally but would usually go away again after restRting the engine. Now however it has started to appear again much more frequently (More than half the journeys). I have removed the lower dash and can access the relays there. I have also downloaded the manual you pointed me to but I am not sure what I am looking at. To make matters worse I am colourblind so am unable to see which wire is the brown wire referred to earlier in the thread. What do you guys need from me, to be able to assist further? I can take photos of the relays if that helps

APols for resurecting old thread. I have this error code intermittently (although it has appeared to be increasing in frequency). I want to try the free tests first, namely test restistence/continuity for the cable from the fuel pump relay coil to the Engine ECU. Are there manuals with diagrams avail to download, or dows anyone have pictures/photo's they could upload for reference please? I have seen a video on how to access the relays behind the imstrument panel but that is all I have found so far

Noob question alert! what's a RARB?? I'm guessing "Rear Axle something"

Wow, thanks all. APpreciated. I think to begine with, I will start off with the strruts and rear springs from a VRS, giving me stiffness and better braking. I am in the process of moving to London though and will need to sell my VIvaro before I tackle anything on the Fabby though, but this is awesome info to be getting on woith

Oh but dude, "lock in a chassis twist braces" beleive in you!! Please expand on this. Why not? I remember when I performed the install, watching youtube vids on why they're a good thing, such as distributing the twist/bend forces and other science that I cannot remember. What are your reasons for disliking them? I'm curious is the reason I am asking, not to cause an argument.

Stiffening sounds lovely! I had a torsion strut-brace on a Nissan Almera I used to own and it made a world of difference to cornering. I had wonmdered if there were a similar beaaast availible for my fabby

ah ok. thanks for that. my front corners definitely need new pads (poss disks too) and I suspect I've got a wonky spring or two from the clunk she makes, so I'll have a nose at what's available in the local scrap yards

I've seen in the forums that the Octy MK1 brakes can be fitted to my fabby. I'm wondering if these brakes on fleabay can be made to fit and what extras I would require. I have the standard fabby 16" alloys https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203537123408?hash=item2f63c20850:g:l7wAAOSwt25hHne6