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Rob.

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Posts posted by Rob.

    Define "bolt on" upgrades

    in Performance & Tuning Upgrades

    Posted

    I was just having a ponder, and thought I'd open it up to debate.

     

    Statements like "MK1 Fabia vRS can double it's power with some bolt on mods" are true... But it also includes a remap... So is a remap a bolt on? 

     

    I'm not sure it is, as in most cases you can't take it back off that easily... But then.. if you don't keep the OEM parts, neither is a FMIC. Some maps can be taken on and off by the owner with the hand held units can't they.. so maybe they are indeed a bolt on?

     

    Or, does bolt on mean "off the shelf". That just makes its even less clear with maps though..

     

    If this sinks, then fair enough.. but wondered what folk might think about the definition "bolt on".. is a custom exhaust bolt on? It's not "off the shelf"..

    Was just going for a Revo, when.....

    in Skoda Fabia Mk I (1999-2007)

    Posted

    My car had done 90 odd K when the clutch went.

     

    This wasn't brought on by a remap, but it was brought on by a restoration of power as I'd had my turbo bearing changed.

     

    The car was so notably quicker post turbo fix that Shark had to check it was a factory map (it was).

     

    So, I'd say in your case yeah, the chances are pretty high that your clutch won't hold out for long post remap.

    Just purchased a VRS again :) :) What kills these cars?

    in Skoda Fabia Mk I (1999-2007)

    Posted

    When I moved mine on it was because it hit middle age and started to become needy.

     

    The turbo bearing let go, luckily it was just really noisy so I knew and it was a cheap refurb.

     

    This, though, must have restored my power to max as then I noticed the clutch was slipping. back then the wisdom was to do the DMF at the same time, not sure if that's still the case but if it is and you want OEM parts that bill is HUGE!

    Am I still right? Most reliable and common problems.

    in Skoda Fabia Mk I (1999-2007)

    Posted · Edited by Rob.

    In the end............

     

     

    She bought a Mini.

     

    My friend (that had a PD130 while I had mine) was selling his 2001 Cooper and, to be honest, it was mint so to turn down the opportunity would have been silly. 

    It's very much like my 90s 318i on the reliability front... Yes, it'll act up like any old car, but you can depend on it to get you where you're going. 

     

    I am now helping to replace a seized lock on a neighbours MPi though... in awesome retro Gold, ooOOOOOoooOOOooo

    Am I still right? Most reliable and common problems.

    in Skoda Fabia Mk I (1999-2007)

    Posted

    Good to know, I had hoped the BBZ 16v would have been a fix to the rings, so that's good.

    Pd100 doesnt have that torque spike which is why I would hope the clutch would last longer then a pd130's.. as for turbo, again, it'll have an easier job as no sudden woosh as in the vRS... I was so disappointed when my turbo went wheezy at 80k and then the repaired turbo showed up the clutch was slipping.. Ben at Shark honestly thought it was mapped and read out the map to confirm it was stock.. would have loved to have dyno'd it once the clutch was done but I just let it go into trade... that car had been serviced on the nose, with the right parts at the right time and run for over four years on bp ultimate.. which was suspected to be the reason it's power was still up...

    Anyway.. back to SWMBO...

    Leaning towards a PD100 or a 16v then... £2k will buy you a super clean low miler easily.

    Am I still right? Most reliable and common problems.

    in Skoda Fabia Mk I (1999-2007)

    Posted · Edited by Rob.

    Hello!

    I've not been here for a rather long time, but used to be on here almost permanently..

    Anyway, SWMBO needs a car that is small but not to much hard work on the motorway. With only very little nudging from me a mk1 Fabia seems favourite. So, I've rattled the long term memory and this lot fell out, could ya let me know if I'm still correct when it comes to the most reliable model to source and thier motorway manners.

    SDi = the definition of bullet proof. Can cruise at speed but overtaking not that impulsive.

    16v = Early versions had duff piston rings, revised at facelift (05?) for an engine code that didn't eat piston rings?? Not to bad at overtaking, just drop to forth, even sounds ok at whack.

    PD100 = fill me in, all I know is that the EGR probably leaks on most by now? Is the clutch DMF like the vRS? Must be ok on the motorway due to torque?

    PD130 = reliable until around 100k which is when, depending on life turbos and clutches can start to generate big bills.. as my looked after one did (git).

    3pot diesel.. I know nout, not.so fussed.

    3pot petrol.. I know nout, but interested to hear.. how's the reliability and motorway?

    MPi = as reliable as the SDi and a timing chain, but a bit rough at speed so not really a motorway motor.

    What have I missed, oh 2.0L.. can't see her getting insured on a bonafide Mustang slayer.

    As for the platform, they eat bushes (40k a set on average, right?). Was it only early power steering pumps that failed?

    All the doors on all the models are made from colanders.

    What have I missed, what have I got wrong, and what have they all started doing in the last few years?

    Taa, I already killed a kitten

    Forge FMKT19TDi Kit? Anyone used them?

    in Skoda Fabia Mk I (1999-2007)

    Posted · Edited by Rob.

    Cheers,

    Yea I thought they would be the same as the OEM stuff but the angles are all wrong, the ends are solid and really tight fitting which is good but I am sure Ive seen them available on ebay for less than £20 each, then just get some pipes and trim them to how you want.

     

    Honestly surprises me... My car was 100% stock and these were modeled on my OEM pipes?? The set they sent me snapped straight in... Yeah, they were harder to fit then OEM because they have much chunkier ends, but slackening off the clips before fitment gave loads more adjustment... the metal bottom pipe was hardest just because it was now a metal connector into a metal pipe so much less give... 

     

    It's a shame if they've started messing these up... wonder if there's a model year issue?

    Anyone messed about with a BMW M43 engine? (a.k.a late 90's 1.8)

    in General Automotive Chat

    Posted

    M43 in a very late (T plate) e36 tourer...

     

    Runs sweet as a nut once warm, but on cold mornings or damp evenings for the first mile or two as you lift off the accelerator to stop at lights or the like, it drops way down to 400rpm and then almost immediately catches it's self and bounces back up to 900rpm.. No real hunting, a little for a second after perhaps, but not excessive.

     

    Have cleaned out the idle valve, that helped. Also bought a "good" one off ebay but that's worse then my cleaned one.

    No vacuum leaks, in fact many many pipes have been changed.

    Stat recently changed, which in turn proved the temp sender to be good.

    throttle body recently inspected, found to be good.

    DISA valve unit changed for a 100% known good one. (it had started ticking)

    No oil consumption. Very little coolant lost. No signs of HG failure.

     

    Taking the battery off for 30 minutes makes it go away for a week or more.. then it comes back.

    MPG normal.

    New plugs, oil, coolant and filters just gone in... Honestly running sweetly after the first mile or 2.

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