Cappy65
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Posts posted by Cappy65
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Go on ebay and give the seller your reg no. I did that for the parts you need and got them for about £9
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Lol. Thanks for your help. I'm going to do it!! But first, the mot fails. Got some seals from europarts for £6 and will do it once it's mot'd and with an engine oil and gearbox oil change ( not the garage ).
Thanks, Ricardo.
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Ricardo, I'll take that advice as I've worked around things using my noddle rather than my paypal a/c on many an occasion before.
How long would it take, roughly, invluding removing cam/s and ancilliaries? Do you use a woodruff key or have you devised an alternative way?
Thanks.
Do I have to take the camshaft off? I assume that I do because it'll be pressing on the valves. The woodruff key is something I've read about stopping the crank moving while working on it with the cam sprocket etc off. Am I talking rubbish?
Thanks for your help, Ricardo.
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Ricardo, I'll take that advice as I've worked around things using my noddle rather than my paypal a/c on many an occasion before.
How long would it take, roughly, including removing cam/s and ancilliaries? Do you use a woodruff key or have you devised an alternative way?
Thanks.
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Okey dokey. Thanks.
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In order to replace the valve stem seals with the cylinder head left on, could you tell me what tool I need to compress the springs?
Also, do I need a specialised stem seal set of pliers or will a standard long nose pair be okay?
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On 01/02/2017 at 15:28, KenONeill said:
What are your failed emissions figures? They may or may not point towards specific work that needs doing.
The garage, when I queried about resolving, said the cat was knackered. I can't remember the figure..
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If I did the stem seals myself, do I have to take the head off? Can I prise the old seals off and push new ones in? I'm a bit confused. I know I'd need a spring compressor but before I consider doing it.
Looks like I'd have to remove it. Just searched on that internet. Bloody big groan ensues.
Thanks, Ricardo et al.
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23 hours ago, RicardoM said:
Oh no... additive for valve seals? Did they invent such BS too? I guess their marketing motto says "Bring new life to your seals. Old crusty worn rubber gets new elasticity. The additive bonds new rubber exactly where it's worn. All that effortless with our nano-particles revolutionary wonder additive."
Took the car for mot. Excessive play in front offside strut top mount, failed emissions testand outer cv boot perished. £480. Sourced the parts myself. They come to 80 pounds.bought a compression tool in that figure as well and will do myself. Also sourced a new cat for 41 in that amount. For the smoke, I'll get some additive for valve seals, replace oil and filter and get it retested. I can't afford 480 - and I'll do it myself as paying someone else is plain lazy when it's just my labour.
At the end of it at least I'll have a sound car and save 400 quid.
I am in a quandary. The additive I mention is a waste of money and won't work; I should know better.
My mot fails ( new cat, front strut topmount, and outer cv gaiter ) I can do for 90 pounds including a spring compression tool, I'm going to do myself, but I don't know if it's worth it as I'll still have worn stem seals, and I'm largely broke.
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1 hour ago, RicardoM said:
Oh no... additive for valve seals? Did they invent such BS too? I guess their marketing motto says "Bring new life to your seals. Old crusty worn rubber gets new elasticity. The additive bonds new rubber exactly where it's worn. All that effortless with our nano-particles revolutionary wonder additive."
Took the car for mot. Excessive play in front offside strut top mount, failed emissions testand outer cv boot perished. £480. Sourced the parts myself. They come to 80 pounds.bought a compression tool in that figure as well and will do myself. Also sourced a new cat for 41 in that amount. For the smoke, I'll get some additive for valve seals, replace oil and filter and get it retested. I can't afford 480 - and I'll do it myself as paying someone else is plain lazy when it's just my labour.
At the end of it at least I'll have a sound car and save 400 quid.
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Took the car for mot. Excessive play in front offside strut top mount, failed emissions test and outer cv boot perished. £480. Sourced the parts myself. They come to 80 pounds.bought a compression tool in that figure as well and will do myself. Also sourced a new cat for 41 in that amount. For the smoke, I'll get some additive for valve seals, replace oil and filter and get it retested. I can't afford 480 - and I'll do it myself as paying someone else is plain lazy when it's just my labour.
At the end of it at least I'll have a sound car and save 400 quid.
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Got a better video of the smoke as I pulled up to the mot place. Thanks for all your advice; you've genuinely been a great help. Steve.
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Just started it up and took a short video. No smoke for 2 minutes then water out of tailpipe and smoke.
Link:
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Is it a job I could do easily enough myself, do you think, Ricardo? I'm no expert but I'll have a go at most things.
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I haven't lost any coolant. The coolant does not show any discernible contamination. The smoke is white, and not thick but more wispy and easily scattered. It smells fairly sweet and thus not unpleasant, so not acrid.
Oil filler cap is a bit cruddy but looks okay to me ( no mayonnaise ).
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Where is the oil vapour recirculation pipework?
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My felicia 1.3 mpi with 75k on the clock has smoke on startup and it continues slightly abated till my journey ends; in short, all the time. Car sometimes misses from cold but fine after a minute or so. When I disengage clutch st lights, say, it feels like it's going to stall but picks up fine most of the time.
The smoke is grey white, but could be bluish for all I know. Any ideas? Is it a scrapper? Faulty injectors maybe or valve stems, rings - or all of that? )
Thank you, folks
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Trailer turn signal? Wow. That's whytgat doesn't work then. My manual doesn't explain them in detail, unless I missed a bit. Thanks, Ricardo.
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I have a little problem with my Felicia dashboard lights. When I press the button for dipped/ driver lights, the headlamps work but the dashboard light doesn't operate. Also, the one above it between the left / right indicator lights doesn't work either. I swapped over good bulbs and they still don't work - although dipped did so for a little while but now itwon't come on. I ordered a pack of 10 bulbs on ebsy before it came on momentarily.
Any ideas what it might be? I'm not an electrician and am somewhat bemused as to how any work as they all seem to just screw into a rigid piece of board that is the rear dash panel.
Bit annoyed becsuse I had the whole dash out to fix a supposedly simple problem and the two top bulbs still don't light up.
Thank you, all.
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My Pacific. Bought it a few months back for my wife. I'm becoming quite attached to it.
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Took the whole unit out. One of the clips was broken, so melted some plastic around the holder to keep in position. Now about to try and fit all back!
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Okay. I'll do that. Ta
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I took the control panel out and detached the whole blower module, leaving the coolant pipes on. I had to fix the control cable as it had come off. Anyway, it seems very fiddly, putting it all back in.
What's the best way? Remove the coolant hoses, take the whole box out, connect all cables and electrics, then slide it back in? I'm not bothered about coolant loss as it's cheap enough to change. I don't see it being easy attaching the front controls and attaching everything in aitu; I think that will be virtually impossible. Thanks for any advice. I'd rather do it the right way than spend hours messing about doing it the wrong way.
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Mine's a pacific special edition. I'll check.
Felicia inner cv joint
in Skoda Favorit, Skoda Felicia, Skoda Fun and Skoda Forman
Posted
Worked on my Felicia, changing the top strut mount and bearing. Unfortunately the inner cv joint is hanging out now. I had to wrestle the coil spring assembly back in before I noticed it while looking under the car.. I'm surprised it popped out. Could I have damaged it? Can I get it back in without taking it all apart again?
Noticed at 9pm and was too tired to carry on.