Racataian

Hello guys, I have been looking for the information on how often the timing belt needs to be changed for the CFFB engine but could not find it. Can anybody tell me where I can find such info? I have replaced the timing belt first time at 115kkm and now I am at 206kkm Thanks!

Update: no DTC is shown on VCDS

Hi, it happened to me several times that after some days spent at cold, the engine is accelerating very slowly and above 3000rpm the whole engine/chassis is vibrating. This happens only until the engine warms up, then it runs smooth, no increased fuel consumption and no DTC. I noticed that I see this effect after 1500rpm, the idle-ing is smooth. I was thinking that maybe an injector is to blame but I checked them a few months back and they were fine. Could the injection pump be to blame? I need to run a diagnostic with VCDS later today...

In the owner manual of 1.8TFSI it is mentioned that up to 1l/1000km oil consumption is considered normal, so with this disclaimer, they get away with it as they did with many other issues in the past(see the first 1.2 TFSI and 1.4 TFSI engine timing failure due to poor design not to mention the Diesel gate). The EGR for the 2.l D it has also a design issue - not many cars go above 150kkm with the original part, some of them fail even bellow 80kkm. I work in automotive industry and I see how VW treats suppliers, how much pressure they impose but only on the costs. This is later translated into poor quality and this poor quality is starting with the design.

I read that the 1.8TSI have a huge oil consumption, even 1l/1000km, keep this in mind

It goes away immediately after I accelerate it a little bit. I noticed that this behavior occurs when, with the engine cold, the idle RPM is at 700. Usually it stays at above 900rpm with the engine cold. Anyway lately I tries to test the injectors with the VCDS and I get for the Cyl 1: -1.2mg/stroke and cyl 3.: +1.2mg/stroke but I don't get the rattle anymore. Are these measured values ok?

it's manual but I imagine the sound would be permanent

Hello, since a few months the engine(CFFB) started to have a bad noise like a rattling, it happens only for the first 5min when the engine is cold. I will make a recording of the sound . I did not see any decrease of power or increased fuel consumption. I checked the injectors and I get -1.0mg/stroke, 0.2mg/stroke, +1.0mg/stroke and 0.2mg/stroke - are these values normal? I see a 2 mg difference between the cyl. no1 and 3. I have now 187kkm and the distribution belt and water pump was replaced at 115kkm - could this be the issue? I plan to replace the motor oil even though I have only 8kkm with it and I use only OEM oil Any other ideas on what could cause this noise?

What are the normal values of the injectors for a CFFB engine? At cold one of the injector got above 2mg/stroke. After the engine is warm they go bellow +/-1mg/stroke At cold I have a bad noise

Hello, I have a 2.0D 140bhp engine on my superb from 2011. Lately I have noticed a bad noise, like a rattling in the engine compartment when the engine is cold. After a few minutes it goes away, when the engine heats up. I though this would be from a bad motor oil(as I had seen such a situation in my previous Opel car) but I always use VW oil&filters and change the oil at 12kkm. I also noticed in one morning that the engine could barely accelerate for the first 1-2 km and I would feel a kind of vibrations in the acceleration( the feeling was that one cylinder was not working) - this happened only once . I have a VCDS and would like to check the injection conditions and the fuel pressure at cold but don't have a clue how. Maybe somebody here knows... Also, any ideas on what else could cause the noise? Is this engine, CFFB, prone to internal failures( like the VW FSI 1.2 L)? BTW the timing belt I replaced at 110kkm(4years ago) and now I have 187kkm I have set an appointment to a repair shop but maybe I can figure out what wrong with it.

If your car consumes 105mA, this means in 10hs the battery is drained of 1.05A. I think the regular battery for this car hold aprox. 75A(maybe less) and you can only use about 25A of them, bellow 50A, your car will no longer start(especially now that is cold outside) and the battery will be damaged. So I estimate that if you let your car sit for aprox. 10 days, you will not be able to crank it, assuming you have now a new battery. The whole car consumption would need to be bellow 20mA from what I know. The fact that your radio is consuming this current means that it can not go into sleep mode so either some internal condition is to blame or the Gateway is keeping it in high power. As internal conditions: have you tried to read the errors from the radio unit, does the VCDS sees the unit correctly? I do not know how the unit looks like on the back but I would disconnect the CAN and see if in stand alone, the current consumption drops. I would let only the power lines to the unit. Could you do a picture with the unit from the back?

Seems to me like a Body control module SW bug quite funny really. Have you tried to do a reset( disconnect the battery for some 30secs? Maybe the SW bug has not been establish in permanent memory and may recover this way. Else I would go to a dealer and ask to reprogram the BCM I don't know the architecture of the system but I don't think broken or shorted wires could do this behavior

Also the EGR will not last more than 150kkm. Mine died at 135kkm. The problem is in the design but VW will not admit it. The whole repair job took half a day and cost aprox 500euros in Romania - the part is very well hidden. Only the original part is recommended to be used as replacement. On my car I have a lot of issues due to poor wire-ing: heated seats & adaptive headlights not working due to a poor fuse contacts. Sometimes I get errors from the airbag seat sensors, various lights working only on full moon days etc. My engine is the 140bhp and I am very happy with it, lots of power and acceleration. Yours should be more fun. Also i am very happy with the noise insulation - very little noise at 140km/h

Hello guys, during my yearly engine air filter filter replacement, I noticed that one seal from the air intake assembly is broken, pictures are attached. I went to a local shop but had no luck in identify-ing it. Apparently I need to buy the whole air filter housing for a simple seal. Maybe somebody here can help me with a part number

Hi, would help me your video, I am especially interested how to took apart the ventilation grill, mine is broken and would like to replace it