Racataian

Hello guys, I have been looking for the information on how often the timing belt needs to be changed for the CFFB engine but could not find it. Can anybody tell me where I can find such info? I have replaced the timing belt first time at 115kkm and now I am at 206kkm Thanks!

Update: no DTC is shown on VCDS

Hi, it happened to me several times that after some days spent at cold, the engine is accelerating very slowly and above 3000rpm the whole engine/chassis is vibrating. This happens only until the engine warms up, then it runs smooth, no increased fuel consumption and no DTC. I noticed that I see this effect after 1500rpm, the idle-ing is smooth. I was thinking that maybe an injector is to blame but I checked them a few months back and they were fine. Could the injection pump be to blame? I need to run a diagnostic with VCDS later today...

In the owner manual of 1.8TFSI it is mentioned that up to 1l/1000km oil consumption is considered normal, so with this disclaimer, they get away with it as they did with many other issues in the past(see the first 1.2 TFSI and 1.4 TFSI engine timing failure due to poor design not to mention the Diesel gate). The EGR for the 2.l D it has also a design issue - not many cars go above 150kkm with the original part, some of them fail even bellow 80kkm. I work in automotive industry and I see how VW treats suppliers, how much pressure they impose but only on the costs. This is later translated into poor quality and this poor quality is starting with the design.

I read that the 1.8TSI have a huge oil consumption, even 1l/1000km, keep this in mind

It goes away immediately after I accelerate it a little bit. I noticed that this behavior occurs when, with the engine cold, the idle RPM is at 700. Usually it stays at above 900rpm with the engine cold. Anyway lately I tries to test the injectors with the VCDS and I get for the Cyl 1: -1.2mg/stroke and cyl 3.: +1.2mg/stroke but I don't get the rattle anymore. Are these measured values ok?

it's manual but I imagine the sound would be permanent

Hello, since a few months the engine(CFFB) started to have a bad noise like a rattling, it happens only for the first 5min when the engine is cold. I will make a recording of the sound . I did not see any decrease of power or increased fuel consumption. I checked the injectors and I get -1.0mg/stroke, 0.2mg/stroke, +1.0mg/stroke and 0.2mg/stroke - are these values normal? I see a 2 mg difference between the cyl. no1 and 3. I have now 187kkm and the distribution belt and water pump was replaced at 115kkm - could this be the issue? I plan to replace the motor oil even though I have only 8kkm with it and I use only OEM oil Any other ideas on what could cause this noise?

What are the normal values of the injectors for a CFFB engine? At cold one of the injector got above 2mg/stroke. After the engine is warm they go bellow +/-1mg/stroke At cold I have a bad noise

Hello, I have a 2.0D 140bhp engine on my superb from 2011. Lately I have noticed a bad noise, like a rattling in the engine compartment when the engine is cold. After a few minutes it goes away, when the engine heats up. I though this would be from a bad motor oil(as I had seen such a situation in my previous Opel car) but I always use VW oil&filters and change the oil at 12kkm. I also noticed in one morning that the engine could barely accelerate for the first 1-2 km and I would feel a kind of vibrations in the acceleration( the feeling was that one cylinder was not working) - this happened only once . I have a VCDS and would like to check the injection conditions and the fuel pressure at cold but don't have a clue how. Maybe somebody here knows... Also, any ideas on what else could cause the noise? Is this engine, CFFB, prone to internal failures( like the VW FSI 1.2 L)? BTW the timing belt I replaced at 110kkm(4years ago) and now I have 187kkm I have set an appointment to a repair shop but maybe I can figure out what wrong with it.

If your car consumes 105mA, this means in 10hs the battery is drained of 1.05A. I think the regular battery for this car hold aprox. 75A(maybe less) and you can only use about 25A of them, bellow 50A, your car will no longer start(especially now that is cold outside) and the battery will be damaged. So I estimate that if you let your car sit for aprox. 10 days, you will not be able to crank it, assuming you have now a new battery. The whole car consumption would need to be bellow 20mA from what I know. The fact that your radio is consuming this current means that it can not go into sleep mode so either some internal condition is to blame or the Gateway is keeping it in high power. As internal conditions: have you tried to read the errors from the radio unit, does the VCDS sees the unit correctly? I do not know how the unit looks like on the back but I would disconnect the CAN and see if in stand alone, the current consumption drops. I would let only the power lines to the unit. Could you do a picture with the unit from the back?

Seems to me like a Body control module SW bug quite funny really. Have you tried to do a reset( disconnect the battery for some 30secs? Maybe the SW bug has not been establish in permanent memory and may recover this way. Else I would go to a dealer and ask to reprogram the BCM I don't know the architecture of the system but I don't think broken or shorted wires could do this behavior

Also the EGR will not last more than 150kkm. Mine died at 135kkm. The problem is in the design but VW will not admit it. The whole repair job took half a day and cost aprox 500euros in Romania - the part is very well hidden. Only the original part is recommended to be used as replacement. On my car I have a lot of issues due to poor wire-ing: heated seats & adaptive headlights not working due to a poor fuse contacts. Sometimes I get errors from the airbag seat sensors, various lights working only on full moon days etc. My engine is the 140bhp and I am very happy with it, lots of power and acceleration. Yours should be more fun. Also i am very happy with the noise insulation - very little noise at 140km/h

Hello guys, during my yearly engine air filter filter replacement, I noticed that one seal from the air intake assembly is broken, pictures are attached. I went to a local shop but had no luck in identify-ing it. Apparently I need to buy the whole air filter housing for a simple seal. Maybe somebody here can help me with a part number

Hi, would help me your video, I am especially interested how to took apart the ventilation grill, mine is broken and would like to replace it

Hello everybody, can anyone recommend roof bars for Superb estate 2011? I have currently some cheap ones and as speeds above 100km/h the noise is very disturbing. A friend has Thule roof bars but he says he also has a lot of noise Thanks!

Yesterday my car made me a nice present: I had a pain in my bag and started the seat heating and surprise-now it works. Seems that time heals everything

Well the whole story is like this: i bought a second hand trailer with the electronic module . I found the installation manual, it said that I should route the CAN cable and power from the back all the way to the fuse box/main ECU near the driver's legs. What I did is made a cable and a connector using mother/father Serial plugs and so whenever I need the trailer I just connect these wires&plugs and the trailer is working.The rest of the time, the wires and trailer electronics is stored near the spare tire. I didn't want to dismantle all the plastic on the left side to bring all the cables permanently to the front. Of course the 2 CAN cables are "twisted" to avoid interference from the car. Now when I use the cable i get some DTCs(MILL off) - saying the trailer module is detected but not installed. If I install it all will be ok until I disconnect it, then some DTC(MIL off) will be raised because it is missing. Any way it is not anoying me too much as I don't carry often a trailer and I don't need to have all the benefits from ESP, ABS, parking sensors etc that come along. So at one moment i had to cut the CAN H/L from the BCM and make a plug - all these with the battery disconnected . All the wires I connected back correctly after that and all is working well except this light module which in the past gave me some warnings but not permanent like now. In the past it used to set the MIL on in cold days until the engine would heat up and I made another crank, then the MIL would go off The battery is in good condition - I replaced it november last year. When I did that, it was the first time the right headlight warning came on so this headlights errors are related to battery diconnections - I begin to fear doing that The battery seems low but I had the KL30 ON for a long time while i was play-ing with the VCDS and the headlight were on. The crancking is spot on though, no problems What i will do is to use some cleaners on the left/right headlights plugs to the power stage or to the main AFS module - maybe I have some oxidation somewhere. Do you know if i can disconnect the J667/J668 without taking appart the fron bumper. Also where is the headlight range control unit J745? Thanks!

Thanks for the hint langers2k, I did have this error in the winter time but not since February - seems that when it is cold outside the link to the power stage of the right headlight is lost/intermittent. I checked the wires on the right ride but all seem very clean and solid, i did dismount the power stage electronics - very complex job- the whole bumper, headlight has to come off- I kept delay-ing this activity What is interesting is that I did not have any AFS problems since winter and after the battery disconnection, it popped up again and lost also the main module coding Regarding the whole scan- I did it - and at this time only the #55 AFS is reporting errors

Hello colleagues, after installing the trailer module on my car 2.0D superb estate(2011). I get a permanent error and MIL on due to the AFS module I had to interrupt the CAN bus in order that I connect the trailer module but during my work, the battery was disconnected. When I put the battery back on I got the bellow errors Seems the Master AFS module is not coded. I have the VCDS tool but no idea how to code this module. Can anyone help here? Address 55: Headlight Range Labels: 5M0-907-357-V2.lbl Part No SW: 5M0 907 357 C HW: 5M0 907 357 C Component: AFS-Steuergeraet 0148 Revision: 00H04000 Serial number: Coding: 1376839 Shop #: WSC 33361 790 00999 VCID: 34672C65571A09E13D-8060 Subsystem 1 - Part No: 7L6 941 329 B Labels: 3D0-941-329.CLB Component: AFS-Lst.-Modul l 0004 Coding: 00000021 Subsystem 2 - Part No: ID-R fehlt Labels: ID-55-02.CLB Component: AFS-Lst.-Modul r .... Coding: 00000255 5 Faults Found: 01042 - Control Module; Not Coded 000 - - - MIL ON Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 11100000 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 67 Time Indication: 0 Freeze Frame: Invalid Invalid Invalid 02656 - Power Output Stage for Left Headlight (J667); Not Coded 000 - - - MIL ON Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 11100000 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 67 Time Indication: 0 02657 - Power Output Stage for Right Headlight (J668); Not Coded 000 - - - MIL ON Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 11100000 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 67 Time Indication: 0 Freeze Frame: Invalid Invalid Invalid 01539 - Headlights Not Adjusted 005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation - MIL ON Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 11100000 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 67 Time Indication: 0 02234 - Right Headlight Power Output Stage (J668) 004 - No Signal/Communication - MIL ON Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 11100100 Fault Priority: 6 Fault Frequency: 16 Reset counter: 68 Mileage: 124595 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2011.11.09 Time: 09:38:51 Freeze Frame: Voltage: 11.79 V Speed: 0.0 km/h ABS 1

When I bought the car I made the oil change in Germany - Liqui Molly 5W40 and the oil temperature never got above 104degrees even at 160km/h in summer. Then I made the second oil change with the same type Liqui Molly from Romania and this Sunday I got 112degrees doing 140 on the highway. The engine works fine and the car is in a good shape. I tent to believe we get a lower quality of product here in the Est, unfortunately.

hi, i own a superb 2.0D 140hp, CR with manual transmission. What is the normal temperature range of the engine oil? the display use to show max. 104degrees on the highway but with the new oil I get 112 degrees on the summer days now Is it the oil or there might be something else? Thanks!

I am not sure for VW or skoda, I have worked several years ago on the software of the battery management electronics for Kia and the electronics is configured with the data of the battery: size, max crank current, type(Gel, AGM) etc this is needed to estimate as accurate as possible the behavior. I imagine that you will have less accuracy if this configuration is not done but you could raise the question to the dealer. The electronics should be on the negative pole of the battery

Battery energy management can not detect the size of the battery so you have to configure it once you put a larger battery

I had a little time and did some measurements: both seat have continuity - driver side is 2.2 Ohms, the passenger seat is 3.2 Ohms - don't know why the difference The switches from climatronic J255 work and not too much, meaning, depending on the intensity of heating I set, I get input on the seat heat controller J774: 11V, 9V or 6V for the driver seat but for the passenger seat I get level 1-10V, level 2- 11V, level 3- 7V - again doesn't make any sense The seat heating controller J774 receives power so the fuse is ok but it does not output any power to the seats I need to check the G60 temperature sensor- I expect to get a value on the Ohm scale, I think it's a thermal resistance. Indirectly I believe these sensors are ok because they are connected to climatronic and the climatronic would not send any command to the seat heat controller if the temperature sensors would be damaged At this point all point to the seat heating controller even though it is new...