StephenVRS

I have been following this with interest, and quite a bit of frustration as it appears that those of us with older cars may be out of luck. But there may be some hope! I have an early 2014 petrol 220 VRS with perhaps unusually a winter pack and MIB1 Amundsen head unit. Sorry not sure if this was standard for that 1st half of year 2014. I found TMC quite useful, as although I have a Garmin satnav, that predates my purchase of the car, the satnav does not have TMC, and it is so old now live traffic though Garmin’s smartphone link is not supported, and from the reviews I have seen live traffic may have data size and power drain isue on phones anyway. MIB 1 maps updates ended in 2020/2021 so when I noted some posts about older maps having the INRIX data and one from Tell with the settings to adjust “15 is no online traffic, Trafficmaster RDS TMC 14 is no online traffic, ITIS/INRIX RDS TMC “ I thought lets have a look as I have Obdeleven Pro My unit was coded with 15 So I tried setting it to 14. I then turned off the ignition, removed the key, removed the Obdeleven Pro dongle. Turned car back on and then reset the Head unit by pressing the power button for about 10 seconds. Once the satnav got going (takes a minute or two) I waited a couple of extra minutes and when I pressed TRAFFIC button I have TMC back! Given that there are no newer maps for MIB1 This may mean some inaccuracies on the TMC reports, but from what saw all looks as good. I still use the Garmin sat nav which still gets map updates for actual driving, but having TMC back is good as in the past it has saved me from some holdups. The most recent maps file I downloaded was STD1_P94_EU_202022.zip but looking in the zip it is described as SystemName=" ECE 2020/21 " I hope this is of some use to people with MIB1 Amundsen units.

Hi, I have a 2014 Vrs so same light unit, I had issues last year. It was at night I was going slowly due to the heavy rain. I did brake but too late to prevent hitting an extremely badly flooded dip there was what seemed like a hught water fountain on the left hand side fo the car. I think the culvert under the bridge was blocked. I did report it to the council. It was also not helped as I was blinded for a small time by a badly adjusted headlamp on a van which appeared over the top of the dip and also prevented me moving to the apex and slighty toward the other side of the road where I could see road rather than puddle! Shortly afterwards (couple of miles) I got a warning about the left DRL. Sorry cannot recall the message, think it was something about a short. The LED was flickering and the brightness was all over the place bright then dim bright again. Then next day I could see some water drops within the headlamp unit. In the end it required a replacement controller which is under the light unit. It was full of water! The controller has a rubber seal, where it fits into the headlamp unit, but I suspect the force of the water forced its way through that. Why a headlamp unit has an electronic controller on the base is something I don't really understand as any water will naturally end up there. The controller was about 120 pounds plus time to remove and replace bumper. Sorry I can't give overall cost as I got them to do an oil change at the same time. It was a bit ahead of schedule, but seems a good idea while the car was on the ramp. So it is possible that it might be the control unit that is poorly? If so somewhat less costly. Clearly the light is not a "sealed" unit! The receipt described the controller as Genuine Skoda Power Module and a reference number 4G0907697D (can't guantee this is correct) But your issue could be something else! Still it might be worth asking them if it could be the controller?

I have a 2014 2.0 TSI Vrs 220 and I had the "Mit Silikat" bag in my expansion tank. So it is not only diesel vehicles! I recently got my local independent garage (who I have been using for years) to drain the coolant which was still a slight pinkish colour, and the bag had not apparently split, and to replace the expansion tank with a new one without the bag. And refill with G13 coolant. Total cost including all parts was 105 pounds. So even if they have to drain and replace the coolant every couple of years that would still take about 20 years to cost approximately 1000 pounds which appears to be the ball park for a new matrix replacement? Means I will not have this issue of a clogged up matrix. More so as I tend to keep my cars for years. I had a Volvo T4 that I had until I wore it out! so for me a ‘no brainer’ decision to get this done.

Yes if using bluetooth it should be ok, I have recently got an Honor 7S with Andoid 8.1 and on a 2014 VRs with Amundsen (MIB1) and it pairs OK using Bluetooth. hope this helps

This has been covered in this posting 1.4 TSI Startup Noise It covers VRs as well, and I also get it nothing to worry about accoring to the above posting

@ Delberthot The following may be of interest? This was over on the Superb forum, but the Octavia Mk3 and it have some areas that are similar. Basically using VCDS or simialr it is possible to enable the boot open funcion on the keyfob with the engine running. Clearly if you are likely to accidently press the key fob this would not be a good idea!

@ZaphodB As well as auto lights the "engine mode" you select affects AFS at least on my 2014 VRS if you select Eco mode (buttons above gear stick) then at AFS lights don't move. You need to be in Normal for some movement as you go round bends and if you select sport mode they move more. On a 2016 model not sure if you have this option may be in infotainment unit?

Hi, Sorry, I may have caused confusion, I actually have an Octavia not a Superb, although it is the same unblying platform. I don't have a boot unlock button on the centre console, and the boot is locked unless explicity unlocked as I have car set to only unlock the driver side door. (I could change this but don't want to) So when I have realised I need access to the boot after starting the car, ususally after I ahve just backed it out of the garage then the information provided by djduese is a great help. Again sorry for any confusion by posting about Octavia here, but I eanted to thank djduese.

I noticed this posting from djduese. This intrigued me, as I had got used to this type of key remote operation on other cars. If you are like me you start the car then realised you want something out of the boot, or something needs moving/adjusting, but the boot is locked. On my Octavia Vrs (MY14) Mib1 I have to stop the engine take key out and then unlock boot. This bugged me each time I had to do this. A small thing I know but it just does bug me. For me there was a slightly difference sequence, not sure if this is because I have ODBeleven Pro. It is Controller 09 Login 31347 Select Adaptions Then on the list that appears select "Access Control" Then near the top "Funk bei Klemme 15 ein" I set it to active and now the key fob will unlock the boot :-) P.S. Hope it is OK to post to Superb forum even though my car is an Octavia ;-) but I wanted to thank djduese for his post.

Hi, TPMS worked for me, and alerted me before the tyre fully deflated, abd prevented me damaging the wheel. more information in this posting.

I have a MY14 TSi 220 with Amundsen satnav, got the car about a year ago, so suspect someone added it as an option when new? along with heated seats and heated front screen, I have to admit I don't use the built in sat nav, found it very clunky, but use my 4 year old Garmin. P.S. Ordered some of the silicon key covers, they arrive earlier this week. Applied to one of the keys to protect it from wear and tear, seems to be doing a good job, Thanks to Sasha for posting about them :-)

Hi, SNAP! I too noticed this today, think I had seen it before, but it was noticible today. I also have the TSi 220 petrol, suspect combination of rain and ambient temperature and humidity.

My previous car an Octavia Mk 2 1.8Tsi did something similar at about 6 years. Previous owner had car for about 5 years and had done less then 22 000 miles. I had car for a few months. Left care home after visiting Mother. Slightly long time to start engine, but then OK. Stopped at supermarket did shopping came out started car, lots of flashing symbols including steering, but would not start, did not turn over Headlights seemed to work, but difficult to gauge brightness. Called out breakdown company. Diagnosiswas battery cell gone, replacement battery fitted, car started fine, drove round car park to check and cleare steering warning light. then off home. Suspect from your description something similar. hope this helps

I recently acitvated my left rear fog light in my 2014 VRs, the bulb was there, all worked fine. @aki78 I think the OP's car is a 2017 1.5 so I think it is a facelift?

very odd about the mileage and date If I recall I had the same error,, and it was caused by me leaving satnav, dash cam plugged into the 12 volt socket on the center console when the engine was tuned off, and I had left it in for a wee while (again not sure how long), and I may have taken ignition key out.