seccles81

Yep, cables not secured and were resting on the turbo... On another note, Had an injector failure at the weekend, another free repair!

Seems like some cables hadn't been properly secured post EGR change... and as the engine was doing a regen it was rather hot...

My saga continues... having been to the local supermarket, we pulled up at home with a VERY strong burning smell... currently waiting on a tech from the local main dealers to arrive

With the car in neutral and your foot on the clutch, press and hold the ESP/ASP button for 3 seconds... it will then redline

Had mine done mid July, then did 1700+ miles on a holiday to Scotland, 1000+ was towing a small trailer.. each time we slowed to a stop it was revving at around 1000rpm instead of 750ish. Engine runs lumpy round town, and the other day I got the exhaust and glow plug lights on... Been back to the main dealer and it needs a new EGR valve fitting... which thankfully Skoda are paying 100% of... But the general consensus is DON'T!

Press the unlock button twice, My 11 plate only opens the drivers door with one press of the remote. Another press and the whole lot unlocks. If a door won't open from the inside check the child lock, which is a little black switch on the door frame near the latch.

I had mine done in July, and I also had an Engine Carbon Clean a couple of days previous to it as well. I have just got back from a 1700+ mile trip to Scotland from Ipswich, of which about a 1000 miles were towing a 4x3 trailer... As soon as I started doing town runs whilst away the car started doing the dpf regen, it is still doing it now. It wasn't this bad before the 'fix' and I am wondering whether to have it remapped to try and solve the problem. It runs really lumpy just before the regen starts. I primarily use standard Shell diesel but did use some standard BP while away as that was the best I could find. I have a 2011 1.6tdi.

Tried Scotchlocks but they didn't even cut the insulation! Had a rethink and came up with a solution, but I might have to make soldered connections. I have a test lead for towing electrics and plugging that into the socket and all works as it is supposed to... It doesn't do it all the time, just occasionally, which is even more frustrating...

Hi all, Having changed from a 2003 Mk1 Octavia Estate to a 2011 Mk 2 Octavia Estate one of my first tasks was to fit a towbar, having done so on the previous one. I have used a universal wiring kit with the bypass relay, which is connected correctly as the trailer lights all work properly. In the last week or so I have started getting the bulb failure light on the dashboard, and the left hand indicator repeater on the dash flashes quickly... A quick check outside and the indicators are flashing normally. Sometimes the dash repeater goes back to normal, but the light stays on. Usually turning the ignition off and restarting the car clears the light from the dash. My thoughts are that the bypass relay is faulty, as it clicks with the indicators and also when I brake it clicks on and off. The unit in the previous car didn't do that, though that was a different style of relay. Anyone have any other suggestions? Thanks Simon

I did look at a dedicated wiring loom, but it would have cost more than the towbar and universal electrics did!

I have just fitted a towbar to my 2011 Estate, what a mission to get to everything!! I used a bypass relay which I hope I have connected to the right wires!

Definately is, the whole car feels much better, though I am still getting used to it. I did a 4 hour trip a few weeks back and was slightly disappointed with the mpg, only just scraped into the 50s, where as my old one would have been round the 60mpg mark. The old one even managed 65mpg towing a trailer last year!

Also, does anyone know the colours for the wiring of the rear lights?

Cheers

I have fitting instructions but they just say removed the trim and bumper with no details! It is the removal of the interior trim that I think is going to take the most effort. I'm not using dedicated electrics, but a bypass relay, hence why I need access to the rear light wiring...