Flatjack

Just to add some extra detail as its just occurred to me! When the car isn't moving but revved to 2000+ rpm there isn't any noise.

Hi all, seeking some advice on an noise the emanates from the engine area when the car reaches 2000 rpm from cold. The noise is a squeaking/rattling type sound rather than anything metallic, but not an auxiliary/fan belt type noise - that belt has been replaced very recently. As soon as the engine drops below 2000 rpm the noise goes away, but returns once speed is increased but then stays away once the car is fully warmed up..... Car is a Yeti 4x4 DSG 2.0 TDI 2014. Local driving not a problem, which is where most driving is done with limits at 50mph and hence well under 2000rpm. The timing belt was replaced three years ago (40k miles). Many thanks

I have an issue whereby the plug-in scanner is picking up that the rear left wheel has a moving speed even when the car isn’t moving!! Have changed the ABS sensor and no change in reading and the stability warning message appears every time the engine is started. I am told there is an ABS ring sensor on the hub (?) that may be the fault but can’t seem to find the part. My Yeti is a 2015 model. Any ideas what I do next? many thanks

Thanks everyone for feedback ahead, sorry for slow response. The car was services in April and its done around 3000 miles since. The other issue to note is that it is very very slow getting warm, and can take 30 minutes for the temp gauge to move. Could a faulty DSG Thermostat cause this and the original stuttering issues from cold?

I suspect I don’t have Coil Packs, but the issue I have is quite like an issue I had before but that was on a petrol car! TDI 140 2014

Could anyone suggest approach to investigating my issues? TDI DSG started to hesitate from cold, particularly noticeable up hills, even small inclines. Temp gauge seems slow to warm up too, so suspecting could be thermostat issue? Car once running warm seems better and all ok on the flat!!! Was thinking Coil Packs, dirty EGR and so on too. No warning lights though. Any ideas would be most appreciated. Thank you.

So this is what I am faced with, do I have to remove the plastic cover above to expose the connector? Thanks everyone for such brilliant help, as always. Fantastic.

2.0 Diesel, 4x4 with DSG Thank you

That's what I expected but I can't see anything unless its the socket underneath the accelerator pedal unit itself? Mine is a 2015 model car.

Can anyone tell me where I would connect a Pedal Box to on the Yeti? I have had a look above the accelerator pedal but can't see any obvious connecting cables. I am considering getting one of these - DTUK® PEDAL BOX. Many thanks

Happy to close this issue! Found that the 7-13 adapter was faulty/inconsistent. Replaced with new one and working now. Many thanks to all the suggestions.

I don't know. Its not a Skoda branded tow-bar.

The 7 pin tester plugged into the car works fine, all LEDs light up correctly. However the Bike rack electrics don't. But the same Bike rack on a different car works fine....

Would a LED trailer board and bypass/remove the rack lights suffice?

I have an issue whereby connecting a bike rack the electrics failed to work, specifically lights, indicators didn’t replicate on the rack, with engine and running (or not). I purchased an electrics test tool and that shows that the electrics on the car is working, LED test lights all display ok. So wondering why the hook up electrics wouldn’t have worked on the rack? Is there anything extra required to enable? On my previous cars it was always just “plug and play”. Thank you

Yes unfortunately need to cover a few marks hence clear tape probably wouldn't suffice.

Hi there. Can anyone advise on what would go best with a Yeti in Black Magic (colour coded too). Looking at the RGM range but unsure whether Black or Carbon or whether Chrome would look better! Thank you

Thank you.

My battery seems like it’s on its way out. if I replace the battery will the RNS315 radio ask for a code when the new battery is connected up? many thanks

Many thanks, I will be checking tomorrow!

Thanks. I didn’t realise that was possible, based on facts it looks like that was what happened. Trying to track down the service history is my main priority.

One for 18 months and then the second since (5 years). The detailed HPI mileage report comes up with BVRLA records which does suggest it was owned by a leasing company although unclear why that was continued after the initial 18 months. Didn’t think leasing companies dealt with 2nd user cars unless the lease was purchased by another lease company?

Looking at MOT history it looks like my car has always been MOTd Kwik Fit, but not just one branch a few different ones over the south of England. I am surmising that perhaps some leasing firms provide this FOC for cars that have gone over three years old? Anyone know anymore, just seems curious that it’s Kwik Fit everywhere rather than use a local independent alternative.

Sorry for another newbie question but looking at a car and after running there 2-3 clicking sounds after switching off the engine. it’s a 2.0 TDI 2015. anything to worry about? car drives well etc

Many thanks. I have had a number of VW Group cars, and the water is always 90 but on the Yeti I am looking to buy, it sits just below 90. probably worrying about nothing but thought I should check!