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garibaldy

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Posts posted by garibaldy

  1. 2 hours ago, J.R. said:

    You could look in VCDS for the compressor shut down code but I can guarantee you that it will be system pressure too low based on what you have written.

     

    You have a leak which is significant enough to deplete the refrigerant charge in 2 days, go ahead with your plan to get it tested but dont believe them if they say there is no leak and they are going to recharge the system and redeplete your wallet, they either didn't want to spend the 30 minutes a vacuum test takes (yours would only take a couple of minutes) or they just want your money.

     

    With your UV pen check the O ring connections to the compressor and the drier cartridge on the condensor.

     

    Thanks J.R., I have a value of 3 under Compressor Shut-Off in measuring bocks group 02. It changes to 6 if i switch off AC. 

  2. 2 hours ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

     

     

    If you happen to have a UV torch you can have a look round the engine bay in low ambient light levels and maybe see leak sources if any dye has ever been added when topping up.

    I have one you could borrow, probably wouldn't cost too much to post.

     

    O-rings in the high pressure side of the circuit are candidates if there's no obvious condenser damage etc.

     

     

    and thanks for the offer of lending me your UV torch. Very kind, thanks again!

    • Like 1
  3. 10 minutes ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

    Fuse 9 or 11 in the group of blade fuses on the battery fuseholder, 5 Amp. Changed position with build date some time in 2005 or 2006, can't remember exactly. 

    It's one of the supplies to the fan control unit. 

     

    Thanks, I will swap it out. I do have an UV torch so will give that a go.

    • Like 1
  4. I changed the two 5A A/C fuses in the cabin, and the 40A strip / 30A blade fuse for the fan because i don't think I have ever seen or heard it move. This hasn't resolved the issue, but it was quick and easy to try. Now eliminated at least. I guess the engine may never get hot enough to trigger the fan?

     

    I have asked the AC guy for an appointment.

  5. The Air Con in our 1.2 BME has never blown cold except for a couple of days after my son had it regassed by ATS about three years ago but, as I am driving this car more, I would like to attempt to fix it for the summer 🙂. I am planning on getting the system tested for leaks and regassed, and want to eliminate any Fabia specific gremlins beforehand.

     

    So far I have checked the following:

     

    A/C button lights up orange when pressed and fan speeds 1-4 all blow at their speeds.

    VCDS lite found 1 fault code: 00819 - High Pressure Sensor (G65)  07-00 -  Signal to low

    Measuring Blocks 2 shows 0.0% Compressor Load and 0.0 bar Refrigerant Pressure (G65)

     

    What should I check next before calling in an A/C specialist for diagnosis?

     

  6. I had two leaky doors and on both occasions the best way to prevent water ingress was to remove the door carrier, reseal and refit. You might get away without removing the carrier but I didn't.  However the carrier is riveted on later MK1 models like mine which is a pain. The picture links don't work, but there is a video on page 2.

     

    • Like 1
  7. 22 minutes ago, Wino said:

    Checked any fuses?

     Ignition coil feed is #52

    When you say you 'swapped out' coil 2, do you mean moved it to another cylinder, or fitted a new one there?

     

    I haven't checked any fuses, but will check fuse #52.

    Fitted a new coil pack.

  8. 37 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

    How fast is it cranking?

    Does it sound like it it is trying to start or not?

    This is going to be a subjective response :-) but in my opinion it is cranking well (battery was replaced a couple of months ago) but there isn't any signs of the engine starting.

    If I place my foot on the accelerator (not sure what that does these days) there's a hint of it trying to start - but minimal. 

  9. Hi - My son reported a loss of power driving our Fabia 1.2 BME yesterday - top speed was 40mph. I went to investigate and the car started normally but VCDS-lite shows fault "16686 Cylinder 2 Misfire detected", I took the car for a short drive without any problems.

     

    She is on 106k miles and due new spark plugs so I swapped them out. Started the car and the engine was lumpy again as my son had reported, presumably running off 2 cylinders. Reseated the spark plugs but still had a lumpy engine. Swapped out the Ignition Coil on #2 and now the car cranks but will not start. Fitted the original ignition coil on #2 but still the car will crank but not start.

     

    I ran a full scan using VCDS-lite and it showed fault "01314 Engine Control Module" but on Address 03: ABS Brakes. Not sure if that is related or red herring.

     

    What should i be checking next? I can smell fuel, and i hear what i think is the Fuel pump kicking in on first click of the ignition. 

  10. Good feedback gents. Both sets of shoes and cylinders sides should have been replaced when only the NSR was changed just before we bought the car. Shame they didn't. However I couldn't see any reason to change the NSR shoes based on the condition and thickness of material left on the shoes. I am tempted to change the drums though...... 

  11. On 09/11/2020 at 18:54, Daddyfixitsnew1 said:

    NO !!!!       

     

    you have to replace the brake shoes on both sides at the same time.....take pictures with your phone before you dismantle them---so you can see where the return springs attach to.

     

    this will make it easier to build the new ones back up. 

     

    BEFORE you remove the old shoes, pull back the dust covers at each end of wheel cylinders---if there is any brake fluid in there, then the cylinder needs changing  (in fact if 1 cylinder is leaking, then change them both).

     

     

     

     

    The NSR shoes are almost new. I have a receipt for the work done shortly before we bought the car - given that side a clean up though!!

  12. On 06/11/2020 at 14:27, TMB said:

    I used TRW GSK1512

     

    It comes with new wheel cylinders but if you don't want those they might do another kit without them.

     

    676777778.png

     

     

     

    Fitted the OSR brake shoes and cylinder this morning and so much easier to do the job after removing the hub - and yes i bought a new hub knut :-)

    • Like 1
  13. Afternoon - I'm after a favour and hope somebody can help. I have been reading through the threads for replacing brake shoes on the Fabia Mk1, and i just want to make sure that i am ordering the correct kit for our Fabia Mk1 1.2 HTP BME.

     

    I've already ordered the plastic guides p/n 6N0609589, but not sure which pre-assembled kit to order. Can anybody point me to the correct kit? I only need to change the NSR.

     

     

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