CmdrStarbuck

Hi All, After recently replacing the OEM front speakers with brand-new JVC ones (kudos again to the excellent guide by @Pinkwafer) I would like to add some speakers in the back, but preferably NOT in the rear doors as they are too low down and there is no existing speaker cabling going to them. I considered mounting some smaller speakers in the D-Panel internal trim, but after removing one I discovered that there is only around 2cm clearance there which is no-where near enough room. I could mount speakers on the Rear Shelf but I would have to add some accessible connectors to the cabling for the rare times I need to remove that shelf. Are there any other places that people have seen rear speakers mounted? The vehicle is a 2010 pre-FL Yeti.

Thank you all for your replies. @RickT What rotational movement are you referring to? From what I can see the collar part moves correctly with the gear linkage but does not seem to move any other way. @Carlodiesel & @Austin 7 The double-nut or replacement nut idea seems like a good one, but I am paranoid about removing that nut now just in case the collar slips and I lose the gear alignment again. Also, silly question I know, but how do these Nyloc nuts work? I have never fitted one before so what causes them to lock in place, and how easily can they be removed once locked?

It looks like that but the technical drawings seem to indicate it is a push-clip which doesn't need one. The issue I have is the grey collar bit keeps loosing its alignment due to the nut coming loose. RAC Guy couldn't find anything else wrong.

I had a similar issue on my VW Golf once. Brake Fluid was leaking through the master brake cylinder (? the one the Brake Pedal is connected to), so I had to pump the brake pedal to get any serious braking. Replacing that cylinder fixed the issue so it might be worth examining your one.

Tempting but I would prefer to find out what kept it from coming loose originally. Would I be able to tell if the nut was originally self-locking and now needs to be replaced?

Hi All, I'm having problems with the Gear Selector on my manual-transmission 2010 Yeti. The nut in the centre of the Gear Selector collar (the bit that rotates a bit when you change gear, nut arrowed in attached photo) keeps coming loose, and when it gets too loose the Gear Selector collar slips off the teeth of the gearbox cog underneath, looses its alignment and only allows me to select 2nd, 4th & 6th gears. This has happened twice so far in the last 6 weeks or so. Mr RAC Guy says that he would expect there to be some kind of locking nut stopping this nut from coming loose but there doesn't seem to be one. I don't think anything has fallen off, and what technical diagrams I can find online do not give any explanation if this single nut is supposed to be a locking nut of some kind. Can someone please tell me what is supposed to stop this nut from coming loose and causing this problem? Kind Regards, Alan G

...with the solar charger disconnected and only one dashcam connected.

Voltage measurement with engine running and both dashcams connected = 14.15v

The voltage measurement of 12.31v was after standing overnight. I will be using the car tomorrow so I will take more measurements then with the solar charger disconnected, and with the engine both running and before startup.

Checking with my trusty multimeter gives a battery voltage of 12.31v with the ignition off and one of my two dashcams plugged in. Is that good, bad or indifferent? I have also purchased a well-reviewed plugin solar charger unit to help keep the battery topped up. Any suggestions for a good-but-inexpensive OBD diagnostic kit?

I wouldn't have thought it to be a battery issue as otherwise the light would come up when I'm stationary and with my foot on the brake, which it doesn't.

Hi All, I have a pre-facelift 2010 1.2 Yeti and for several months now I have had a strange problem with the Traction Control system. If the car is stationary for a few minutes without me touching the brakes, throttle etc, there will be a 'ping' noise and the Traction Control Warning Light comes on (yellow car leaving s-shaped skidmarks, NOT the ESP OFF warning light). Turning off the ignition and turning it on again always clears this warning light but it is really annoying as I prefer to use the handbrake when waiting at traffic lights etc, but if I do so there is a chance the warning light will come up. The light never comes up if I keep my foot on the brake when stationary. The local garage directed me to a Skoda main dealer, who found and fixed broken wires in the drivers door wiring loom (a known issue with these cars) and also installed a recommended firmware update, but the problem is still there and does not happen frequently enough for them to do any further troubleshooting on it. Both the main dealer and my local garage cannot find any persistent fault codes. Based on the above I have two questions; 1) Any ideas what could be causing this? 2) Can anyone recommend a good-but-inexpensive OBD diagnostic kit so that when it happens I can plug it in and see what fault codes are active? Thanks in advance for any useful advice. Alan G