JaamesVRS

Changed my turbo to Gt1749VB and I’ve noticed around 1500rpm especially in 3rd there’s a puff of black smoke, is this due to my pd130 map? As the Pd150 is more laggy than the 130? May of answered my own question but just want to clear it up

Possibly I’ll make sure there’s no further issues first although I’ll be selling the car in June but spoke to the mapper yesterday he said bring it down and wet adjust it to suit with the addition of FMIC too

I’m not planning on keeping the car much longer, I’ve had enough issues with it now to want to burn it. Can’t wait to see the back of it! So not point spending on VCDS when it’s going soon. Just want it reliable as I couldn’t ever bring myself to sell a dodgy car to someone! I’m not that type of person. Yes the issue we had as soon as the bolts were tightened up on the housing the CHRA wouldn’t spin at all, not until the bolts were loosened off, we must of had the CHRA in and out the housing 30 times until we were “happy” with it

Yeah I understand what you mean, I bought the car in june and got it remapped in July, and it ran fine up until January when the first turbo went. I’ll be honest I didn’t clean the TIP out until yesterday, rinsed it out with petrol sealed both ends gave it a shake dumped it out etc, so the issue could possibly be the CHRA not fitting correctly in the original casing? Hence the damage to the impeller. How and where can I get the VCDS logs done to check for Boost etc? Do you know anywhere in kent that will do it? My inlet manifold is all caked up with ****, is it worth cleaning that out (if so how) or just leave it?

Obviously this is all the same actual turbo as original, just the CHRA that was changed, is it possible it’s the VNT causing the issue? Say for example it’s sticking and causing overboost, as all 3 failed in the same core with the same impeller damage, the snapped shaft on the second turbo is that down to over speed?

What is th actual cause of overspin i know Boost leak is a factor however I know for a fact I haven’t got a Boost leak as that’s been pressure (30psi) and smoke tested with no leaks, so what else would be causing it? Is that why my original turbo failed? I’m going to link the photos of all 3 failed turbos the order they are posted in is CHRA Replacement, CHRA Replacement 2 Original

Okay cool before I bought the turbo I asked the company about the VNT etc being set up and they told me it’s all setup on a flow machine to the Factory spec so I’m theory I should be okay?

He’s built a few high spec 2260s PD engines are very popular in Poland apparently. He’s got a sponsor car on the ramps at the minute with 2260 and custom pipework etc loads of bits great project to follow to be honest. However I understand what your saying. In terms of Knowing I have overboost how can I do this? I don’t have a laptop to run VCDS

He’s Polish, owns a garage near here called Boost Factory, built some extremely powerful cars, Audi 8L S3 750bhp, Integra DC5 700bhp out of standard K20 etc! He does know his stuff but it could be language barrier. It never done it on my original turbo, but the VNT Feathering is that an overboost condition? As like I said never happened on my original turbo! Only since changing the CHRA

Unless the values/tolerance to ping the code have been set stupidly high to stop the ecu throwing the car into limp mode? Is there a way to tell the car is overboosting? Any tell tale signs? Someone told me when I’m lifting off the throttle around 3k rpm the flutter sound I’m hearing (like a petrol with a cone filter) is overboost. Although mine has standard air box and OE filter

I’m going back to petrol head in a couple of months! Had enough of this derv life already!! Could the stop screw or actuator rod being set incorrectly cause Overspin? Or is that an ecu controlled variable?

Okay cool that’s reassuring! The other thing I noticed, on light throttle application, say when accelerating up a hill, or just increasing speed from say 30-50 the Boost gauge would climb to 25 psi, if I come off the throttle it would flutter/surge/chatter whTever you want to call it, and that was accompanied by a huge whooooooooooooosh hiss type sound (not Boost leak had the system pressure and smoke tested) like serious amounts of air rushing through the system, now I would expect 25psi on full throttle application, not 1/3 throttle? Is this a symptom of ovwrboost? Could these failures be due to me not getting the stop screw and actuator setup on the new CHRAs? The car never ever threw a code for over Boost or went into limp mode, only time t went into limp mode was when a boost pipe popped off, never had a code for over Boost like you said could of been mapped out.

Also I never got the VNT setup or the actuator, I used a feeler gauge on the CHRA stop screw until it was the same as standard CHRA that come out, granted it’s not the correct way to do it but all I had. This new turbo is fully setup according to the company, all on a special machine

Of course it is, brain fart lol... is this damage from the impeller hitting the housing then? Okay so possibility it’s the turbo being put back together is what caused the failure? Obviously I don’t want my shiny new Garrett unit from Turboactive to fail! I’ve washed all the Boost pipes out with petrol, and filled the FMIC with petrol and dumped it out twice, then shook the intercooler listening for a metallic noise, the oil feed and return I blasted through with can brake cleaner until the cleaner the other end came out completely clear, is that sufficient? Obviously the other times when the turbo failed I have changed the oil filter air filter and oil

My friends Cartridge from the same company also failed, I’ve kept the car off Boost since it’s been fitted haven’t strained the turbo in the slightest. Not hit the limiter, not abused it full throttle or anything. That’s what I don’t understand, we had issues with the CHRA being difficult to spin once the housings were fitted back together, and took the turbo apart again and kept cleaning and sanding down any pitting marks til it spun freely, however there’s a possibility it contacted for .00000001 of a second causing the damage. What causes impeller damage like this? Seeing as my first tirbo failure did do the same thing, possibly faulty VNT and the impeller making contact with the VNT system?

I’ve dropped the intercooler and hard pipes cleaned them out with petrol, filled intercooler couple of times dumped out, doesn’t sound like anything In there. The oil was changed 500 miles ago, is it necessary to change the oil again? Or will it be okay?

You guessed it...... another turbo, this one was still working .... just! But was going woooooo woooooooo and making very little power. My last CHRA failed at 500ish miles and this one has done the exact same!!! This was the same company sending a CHRA out on warranty. Is this bad CHRA causing the issue? As I’ve ordered a recon Garrett 1749VB which will be here tomorrow and obviously don’t want that to fail!!!! . In terms of the slight damage will I need to remove the FMIC again and flush it out? Or will it be okay as damage is fairly minimal

Took the car for a trip for diesel, popped open the bonnet and recorded it, the noise is much more noticeable in the car than out. But here’s the video anyway, yeah sepul I will take the TIP off and have a look when I get chance, all my tools etc are down the lockup and we’ve had snow this weekend it’s bloody freezing!

Yes mate it’s a similar noise, I reset the trip since the turbo was fitted, only done 173 Miles and making this noise!!! I’ll get a video with the bonnet up shortly and upload that! I’ll make sure the car is warm too as that video I literally run round to the shops the engine temp gauge still showed cold

I didn’t buy a melett in the end but starting to wish that I did, I bought one from a company called NERINGS, they’re a Latvian company who have loads of great reviews and feedback, coupled with YouTube videos of building their turbos balancing them etc seem to be a company who are doing all the right bits. When my first core failed from them they sent out another which arrived next day (after scaring them with bad feedback etc) However my first core made the same noise then went pop when on Boost, I’m worried this one is about to do the same, the hatred I have for this car now is unreal I can’t drive it anywhere without fear of it breaking down. I’m waiting on my tax rebate to come in to get rid and go back to petrol, probably go Astra VXR or something along those lines, the fabia has done nothing but cause me issue.

However when the car was warm the noise was much less pronounced almost couldn’t be heard

Yeah my last turbo a few weeks ago did the same thing from when it was fitted so thought nothing of it, in the end the shaft snapped. This started last night noticed it when leaving the Harvester carpark lol. The original tirbo went end of jan, now the othwr turbo lasted a month, this one has been fitted a week and making the noise, by turbo I means replacement Cartridge. Can’t afford a complete turbo

The video doesn’t do much justice the road noise drowns it out, it’s more noticeable stationary, can hear it when the clutch is dipped and revs drop as changing gear. Can’t wait to get rid now causing me constant issues

Car started making the woooo sound last night, it’s my second new turbo in a month, at low RPM it’s making a slight siren noise, only at low RPM, my last turbo 2 weeks ago made said noise before the shaft breaking a month later but always made the noise since it was fitted, this turbo started making the noise last night, it’s at 1500/2000rpm I would say. I’ve attached a video link, it’s more pronounced in person I guess but not sure if it’s normal or a worry. Like I said it only started last night, for the past week there was no noise after 2000rpm the noise stops completely. Is this normal or impeller damage

Also I have 2 dead cores one good, none of them spin freely the exhaust side is catching on something almost you can hear it rubbing but as soon as any torque applied to bolts that’s it doesn’t spin, the hot side was seized solid when the shaft snapped however no damage to hot side wheel, the hot side housing on the other side looks rather rough :( is this throw away jobby or rescue with a bit of wet and dry?