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JaamesVRS

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    Male
  • Interests
    Track Days, Motorcross, breaking cars
  • Location
    Kent

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  • Model
    106 GTi, Fabia vRS

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  1. Changed my turbo to Gt1749VB and I’ve noticed around 1500rpm especially in 3rd there’s a puff of black smoke, is this due to my pd130 map? As the Pd150 is more laggy than the 130? May of answered my own question but just want to clear it up
  2. Possibly I’ll make sure there’s no further issues first although I’ll be selling the car in June but spoke to the mapper yesterday he said bring it down and wet adjust it to suit with the addition of FMIC too
  3. I’m not planning on keeping the car much longer, I’ve had enough issues with it now to want to burn it. Can’t wait to see the back of it! So not point spending on VCDS when it’s going soon. Just want it reliable as I couldn’t ever bring myself to sell a dodgy car to someone! I’m not that type of person. Yes the issue we had as soon as the bolts were tightened up on the housing the CHRA wouldn’t spin at all, not until the bolts were loosened off, we must of had the CHRA in and out the housing 30 times until we were “happy” with it
  4. Yeah I understand what you mean, I bought the car in june and got it remapped in July, and it ran fine up until January when the first turbo went. I’ll be honest I didn’t clean the TIP out until yesterday, rinsed it out with petrol sealed both ends gave it a shake dumped it out etc, so the issue could possibly be the CHRA not fitting correctly in the original casing? Hence the damage to the impeller. How and where can I get the VCDS logs done to check for Boost etc? Do you know anywhere in kent that will do it? My inlet manifold is all caked up with ****, is it worth cleaning that out (if so how) or just leave it?
  5. Obviously this is all the same actual turbo as original, just the CHRA that was changed, is it possible it’s the VNT causing the issue? Say for example it’s sticking and causing overboost, as all 3 failed in the same core with the same impeller damage, the snapped shaft on the second turbo is that down to over speed?
  6. What is th actual cause of overspin i know Boost leak is a factor however I know for a fact I haven’t got a Boost leak as that’s been pressure (30psi) and smoke tested with no leaks, so what else would be causing it? Is that why my original turbo failed? I’m going to link the photos of all 3 failed turbos the order they are posted in is CHRA Replacement, CHRA Replacement 2 Original
  7. Okay cool before I bought the turbo I asked the company about the VNT etc being set up and they told me it’s all setup on a flow machine to the Factory spec so I’m theory I should be okay?
  8. He’s built a few high spec 2260s PD engines are very popular in Poland apparently. He’s got a sponsor car on the ramps at the minute with 2260 and custom pipework etc loads of bits great project to follow to be honest. However I understand what your saying. In terms of Knowing I have overboost how can I do this? I don’t have a laptop to run VCDS
  9. He’s Polish, owns a garage near here called Boost Factory, built some extremely powerful cars, Audi 8L S3 750bhp, Integra DC5 700bhp out of standard K20 etc! He does know his stuff but it could be language barrier. It never done it on my original turbo, but the VNT Feathering is that an overboost condition? As like I said never happened on my original turbo! Only since changing the CHRA
  10. Unless the values/tolerance to ping the code have been set stupidly high to stop the ecu throwing the car into limp mode? Is there a way to tell the car is overboosting? Any tell tale signs? Someone told me when I’m lifting off the throttle around 3k rpm the flutter sound I’m hearing (like a petrol with a cone filter) is overboost. Although mine has standard air box and OE filter
  11. I’m going back to petrol head in a couple of months! Had enough of this derv life already!! Could the stop screw or actuator rod being set incorrectly cause Overspin? Or is that an ecu controlled variable?
  12. Okay cool that’s reassuring! The other thing I noticed, on light throttle application, say when accelerating up a hill, or just increasing speed from say 30-50 the Boost gauge would climb to 25 psi, if I come off the throttle it would flutter/surge/chatter whTever you want to call it, and that was accompanied by a huge whooooooooooooosh hiss type sound (not Boost leak had the system pressure and smoke tested) like serious amounts of air rushing through the system, now I would expect 25psi on full throttle application, not 1/3 throttle? Is this a symptom of ovwrboost? Could these failures be due to me not getting the stop screw and actuator setup on the new CHRAs? The car never ever threw a code for over Boost or went into limp mode, only time t went into limp mode was when a boost pipe popped off, never had a code for over Boost like you said could of been mapped out.
  13. Also I never got the VNT setup or the actuator, I used a feeler gauge on the CHRA stop screw until it was the same as standard CHRA that come out, granted it’s not the correct way to do it but all I had. This new turbo is fully setup according to the company, all on a special machine
  14. Of course it is, brain fart lol... is this damage from the impeller hitting the housing then? Okay so possibility it’s the turbo being put back together is what caused the failure? Obviously I don’t want my shiny new Garrett unit from Turboactive to fail! I’ve washed all the Boost pipes out with petrol, and filled the FMIC with petrol and dumped it out twice, then shook the intercooler listening for a metallic noise, the oil feed and return I blasted through with can brake cleaner until the cleaner the other end came out completely clear, is that sufficient? Obviously the other times when the turbo failed I have changed the oil filter air filter and oil
  15. My friends Cartridge from the same company also failed, I’ve kept the car off Boost since it’s been fitted haven’t strained the turbo in the slightest. Not hit the limiter, not abused it full throttle or anything. That’s what I don’t understand, we had issues with the CHRA being difficult to spin once the housings were fitted back together, and took the turbo apart again and kept cleaning and sanding down any pitting marks til it spun freely, however there’s a possibility it contacted for .00000001 of a second causing the damage. What causes impeller damage like this? Seeing as my first tirbo failure did do the same thing, possibly faulty VNT and the impeller making contact with the VNT system?
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