Jelibeli

I had a lot of smoke when one of my intercooler pipes disconnected itself a few years ago. When I say a lot, it was like a comedy James Bond smokescreen on anything but the gentlest of throttles. Have a look at the pipes behind / beneath the bumper. It's basically putting loads of fuel in, because it thinks it's getting loads of air, but it's not.

Hi. My car started making a noise from under the bonnet, it sounded like something was trapped in the fans & catching on the blades. Opened the bonnet and the fans aren’t spinning even with the aircon on, but something is buzzing. Fans seem to move ok by hand. Any thoughts? It’s a PDI 140 (BKD).

Hi. Since I got my Octavia several years ago, the rear RH door has never stayed open, always closing by itself. Is there a way to adjust the check strap so it grips a bit tighter and holds itself open?

Thanks. Unfortunately MicMac, my car always comes up as a lower-powered 8v, not a 140PS 16v, which often gives the wrong brake part numbers. Cryonut - Thanks, that sorted me out.

Hi. I need new rear pads, and according to by PR code list, i have 1KF rear discs. It's a pre-fl 2005 Combi 140ps TD PDI (BKD), which I believe means it has 260mm rear discs. Can anyone tell me the part number for the pads I need? I'd prefer a set with the shims & bolts, so getting ones for the correct thickness of disc would be useful, although if you can only give me a number for a pad set, that would do. Thanks.

They use a variable swash-plate compressor that is always running, but when the swash plate is set flat, the compressor just turns and does nothing. When the swash plate is angled, it pumps. This all happens inside the compressor and externally, you see no difference. This gives an idea of how it works:

They don't last long without oil - mine was re-gassed by a friend for free, but he didn't add oil, saying there would be enough left in it. Next day, screeching noise, ancillary belt torn to shreds and dead compressor. You probably had oil.

Kenwood DNX525DAB plays FLAC, and presumably the newer Apple Car-Play compatible successor will too. It's a VAG-specific unit sold & fitted by dealers as an approved option, also available via aftermarket, fits the slightly narrower Octavia 2 aperture, but it will also fit the wider aperture with a gap either side. Not cheap new though, and while I don't know what the successor is like, the 525 is disappointing for the money in term of functionality. However, it sounds awesome and I can clearly tell the difference in my 2005 BKD Ambiente Diesel (with standard speakers) between 320kbit m4a (Nero AAC) and FLAC, even when travelling at motorway speeds.

Hi all, In a few weeks' time, I'll probably need to fit & code a gateway module (battery drain) and a body module (front fogs). I've got the body module, and revision Q modules are on ebay for £30-40, so I'll probably supply both of them myself. Can you guys recommend somewhere or someone reliable & trustworthy to do it?

Stay. Better the devil you know. :devil:

Thanks Mike. For the extra £8, I've gone for the front-fog-compatible switch. I've also ordered the front fogs, and the appropriate CECM (also £18, funnily enough). But I may wire it through a separate fused relay circuit instead. I've got another thread asking the relevant questions for this, so I'll leave this one as it is. Thanks again.

Fair enough. So, next question - this suggests that I would be OK to use high-output +150% lamps in my fog lights, or should I stick with standard output? In my last car, I had nightbreakers everywhere, including the low-mounted fog lights, but I didn't encounter fog quite as bad as I faced the other night.

I found this interesting: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/light_color/light_color.html I also have a pair of 'sports' yellowish-tinted sunglasses that I bought many years ago, and I find I can see better through daylight fog (and very heavy rain / motorway spray) if I wear them.

Hi again. I've finally ordered the front fog lights and the light switch, and I've ordered the high-line version of my CECM (1K0 937 049 N, to replace 1K0 937 049 M). However, I'm thinking of wiring straight from the switch instead (via a relay) and not bothering with the CECM upgrade, as it will involve being fitted by someone who can copy the coding from one to the other. So, here are the inevitable questions: 1. will drawing enough current through the switch to drive a relay cause any issues to either the switch or the modules it is attached to? 2. is the dash warning light wired separately from the unused pin on the switch, or will I need to wire that as well? I've been told that just fitting the fog light capable headlamp switch will make the dash warning light operate when it is pulled, whether front fog lights are fitted or not. 3. Is there a wiring harness available to make either CECM or relay installation easier? I can wire up the relay and so on myself, but a harness to take power to and from the lights themselves (with the correct plugs for the bulbs) would be useful. Thanks.

Hi. I'm in the throws of fitting front fog lights to my Mk2 Pre-FL, and I've been wondering about either All Weather or Selective Yellow (french-style) bulbs. I'm fitting the lights because the last few days have been really foggy, and I've been caught out a couple of times in situations where I just cannot see the edges of the road. I was wondering if anyone has tried selective yellow or all-weather bulbs in their fog lights, and if they have been any better than normal bulbs for visibility? ABD sell selective yellow bulbs, and Halfords still stock their own brand and Bosch all-weather bulbs. As a side note, I have Philips +150% bulbs in my headlamps, would I be able to see better in dense fog with normal output bulbs? Once the fog lights are fitted, I know I will be able to run with just fogs to help this situation (when the weather makes it appropriate of course, not just when I'm wearing my baseball cap backwards).