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Halford

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    Tyneside UK

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    1.2 TSi S 2016

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  1. personally I agree with the above, also I believe that you are required to tell your insurance company of any accident, even if you don't claim through them for the repairs (nb your reg plate is now out for public view), and in doing so your own insurance premium will rise a little even though it was not your fault (but the insurance co still considers you a liability and hence charges you more) its more than just a supermarket scrape to get sorted yourself, and you could be looking at several hundred pounds to fix, will the other party pay this ?
  2. I used this a couple of years ago and it was pretty good, but takes a lot of work to put on properly, first have to thoroughly clean the screen, degreaser and paper towel job, then apply and buff off - lengthy and physical job (if you're getting on). now I have 2 x 1kg silica moisture absorbing bags on the dash that you can dry in the oven/microwave like these Fifth Gear 2 x 1kg Silica Gel Car Dehumidifier, Dry Air, Reusable Moisture Absorber Bag, Automotive Dehumidifier, Keep Windows Fog-Free. Prevents Condensation and Mold, Includes 2 x Anti Slip Mat: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike also remember that the best way to demist is 1. Aircon ON 2. air vents up onto windscreen 3. max heat 4. max air flow 5. keep All windows shut and set to internally recirculate (to suck moisture out of air inside the car and not suck in more moisture from outside) 6. rear screen heat demist on 7. mirror heat demist on 8. try not to breathe too much key criteria for next car = heated windscreen LOL
  3. mine squeaks/creaks on occasion, traced my issue to the chromed dial housing area. fixed by placing thumb on the chrome ring and fingers on the top of the curved instrument housing as shown in your picture and squeeze together, do both sides
  4. if you get a replacement battery with the same Ah and CCA rating you don't even need to recode, but as I suspect you'll get a replacement battery with a slightly higher Ah and CCA than the OEM battery, then a delay in having it recoded to the new battery's spec will do no harm at all, it simply means that the system will have the alternator supply slightly less voltage than is required to charge the battery up to 100% - and in "real life" very rarely is any battery 100% anyway.
  5. took the car down to the auto-electricians today the battery has a resting current drain of 10mA, but routinely surges up to 70 mA then falls back to 10mA, it's as though the system is searching for something (typically occurs when a tracker is fitted) even 70mA is a low reading and nothing to be concerned with, and the problem is simply that the wife's not doing enough journeys to charge the battery as its pretty small at 44Ah / 420A I could maybe modify a battery clamping system thus allowing me to fit a larger capacity battery, otherwise will just have to put it on charge every month to top it up (will probably choose this option). re: 12v socket charger - unlike my yeti, the 12v sockets on the Citygo are not live and would need the key in the ignition switched to the accessory position, even with the yeti I'd have a problem with a cable being nipped by a locked door/boot - so for both cars the best option is to carefully position a cable under the bonnet, best place where the lights are.
  6. Thanks guys, but going along the route of alternator issues is the wrong direction, the alternator works fine and pumps out charge to the NEW battery as mentioned in earlier posts. Here's the latest 29/02 battery fully charged up to 12.99v, with engine running alternator putting out 14.6v 02/03 - 2 days later having been started twice, but not ran, tested at 12.58v 04/03 - 4 days later, tested at 12.41v (now at 75% charge) 05/03 - 2 x 5 mile trips in daylight (only DRLs on) 06/03 6 days later, tested at 12.35v 08/03 8 days later, tested at 12.26v 10/03 10 days later, tested at 12.18v less than 50% charge Have now put on charge again The car goes into the local auto-electric shop on Monday for investigation where they can isolate individual circuits and monitor the current drain thereby pinpointing where the problem lies. will update when more info is available
  7. battery is now fully charged at 12.99v (true reading using quality multi-meter) the dash battery light (alternator) comes on when key switched to accessory mode with the engine not running, and it goes out when the engine is started - so the bulb works OK but anyway, with engine running the alternator putting out 14.6v to the battery. will keep a record of the voltage decline and update this thread in due course.
  8. like the spell checker subbing ginseng for engine LOL will check later when I'm home
  9. thanks guys, the car typically does 3 x 10 mile trips a month, which I appreciate is not sufficient to charge a battery up. the alternator is fine, putting out around 14.4v when the engine is running I even bought myself a good charger (CTek) which should charge it up in 6 to 8 hrs will charge it up to 12.8v again and monitor its discharge regularly to check for a pattern
  10. we have a SKODA CITIGO MK1 999 2016 and I've recently changed the battery for a new Bosch which I fully charged up prior to fitting and it was all good. the car is lucky if it does 30 miles a month (I don't let the wife out much) but after 6 to 8 weeks I'm having to charge the battery up I've searched the forum in case there was something about current drain (only the alarm is active, as the plug in whatsit is removed) but I've drawn a blank, There must be something amiss as surely I shouldn't be having to charge the battery every couple of months - or is that normal and I'm simply a dinosaur harking for the good old days. any help or guidance would be most appreciated.
  11. Halford

    Wheel Size

    great reference site wheel-size.com search by Rim size and it will show you every vehicle that uses the same rim
  12. check out your local VCDs "helper" here usually for a few beer tokens, you can get whatever settings you need sorted (a tenner saw my local chap quite happy) https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?msa=0&mid=1Td73_uUUqscV3nRm5br_o89PmBU&ll=51.64002219462153%2C-1.024121782396378&z=8
  13. Halford

    Torx size?

    get a set of these for very occasional use https://www.amazon.co.uk/TOPEX-35D960-Torx-Key-Set-T10-T50/dp/B00MOD3LD4/ref=sr_1_5?adgrpid=51361642057&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrvSigoGh5AIVh7PtCh3XgADrEAAYASAAEgLLxvD_BwE&hvadid=259049747008&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9046771&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14622423056923056977&hvtargid=kwd-296424663962&hydadcr=170_1786934&keywords=torx+sets&qid=1566838829&s=gateway&sr=8-5 £3.88 delivered
  14. it appears that "skoda" don't actually include OIL changes in the service (or inspection as they call it), and have separate service / oil change events in what looks like a con to get you back into the dealer workshop more often. if you managed to reset your "service" indicator, you should easily manage to reset your "OIL change" indicator not sure how you do it on pre-face lift 1.2 but for my face lift 1.2 it is ........................ Face Lift Yeti Service indicator 1. Turn off ignition, 2. For full service reset turn on hazard lights. Skip this step for oil service only. 3. Press AND HOLD the trip zero “0.0” button (lower right of speedo dial), 4. While keeping 0.0 button pressed, switch IGN to fully ON but DO NOT start engine. 5. Wait till the "reset" message appears on the Maxidot screen, then release the “0.0” button. 6. say yes to "reset" (press the the “0.0” button again) The oil reset is the same just do not turn on hazards at step 2 1. Turn off ignition, 3. Press AND HOLD the trip zero “0.0” button (lower right of speedo dial), 4. While keeping 0.0 button pressed, switch IGN to fully ON but DO NOT start engine. 5. Wait till the "reset" message appears on the Maxidot screen, then release the “0.0” button. 6. say yes to "reset" (press the the “0.0” button again)
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