7600ee

Well just thought I'd update everyone on the progress. I got the handbrake cables in with not much hassle, new brake shoe springs (for the ones that went missing), guide pieces/sliders and new locating bolts. All done I put it back in for the MOT (a different garage out of convenience sake) and it failed on a broken spring, headlamp aim, track rod end and front wheel bearing. I wish I'd went back to the original garage but too late now. Having a friend fix it for a small fee £180 inc parts. Anyone think this could have happened within 250 miles of driving or did the original garage miss it / new one milking it? Thanks all for the help for getting the brakes set up, that's the only thing which went smoothly!

Thanks for all the replies / suggestions. I'm not at the car over the weekend but I'm planning on continuing Monday onwards again and try and get it sorted. Will try and get to tps for that spring I snapped and possibly a couple of handbrake cables I had to take the wheel bearings off anyway as one was rough, I couldn't imagine doing the job with them on!

Had an absolute nightmare doing this past couple nights. I had it all together then a handbrake cable decided to pop out if place. I had to take the new shoes off to get it back on and broke a spring doing so (picture underneath is of the spring nearest the camera). Anyway started bleeding the brakes, with the drums off... Now I can't get the bloody ******s on and I've tried pushing the cylinder back in and even when there is room I just can't get the brake shoe to retract if you will. Then a cylinder popped when I was bleeding it and while it looks fine I'm not sure if it's ruined any seals etc or just made a big puddle on the floor... I'm in two minds about the cables, they both move freely but that one popping off (twice) isn't right. I don't think the side that pops off actually compresses, it more just let's the cable inside move. Thanks again

Not sure if I'm honest I just pried them off and stuck them in the bin! One side was covered in brake fluid and had no material left of the shoe. And I think one side of the handbrake did almost nothing on the brake roller test maybe 5% iirc Didn't think about that I'll maybe try get someone to help and do the two person method. Thanks

Ah right I didnt realise the auto adjusted that's good to know. How would I go about adjusting them from the cable if I needed to? No I didn't are they essential/what do they do? Might have to go back to it the back plate looks a bit worse for wear as well. Thanks again

After another failed mot it's been time to sort the back brakes out. My fabia failed on rear brake imbalance, low fluid level, leaking fluid etc etc. The mechanic said it may need brake cables as well. I had previously tightened it at the handbrake and I think one cable was slack still... Anyway I've put the adjuster at the handbrake back to what it was at before as he told me this was not the proper way to adjust it. I bought two new wheel bearings (one was rough) and a new brake shoe kit (trw pre assembled including cylinders). The old shoes came off with some persuasion and the bearings were okay. Ive put the new shoe / cylinder on one side but haven't started the other. I've just thinking about firstly if one of the cables is broken and how I would know before I bolt it back together?And secondly how do I adjust the handbrake at the drum? Any other advice to complete this job? Don't have a pressure bleeder either so will it be okay to gravity bleed them?

Hi I had my timing belt done on Sunday and was advised to have the aux belt + aux belt tensioner done sooner than later (belt is cracked and tensioner has play which is true the mechanic showed me. Got a new belt form tps for £16 last night and put it on but they wanted £140 for the tensioner. Anyone know the part number of the tensioner for me please or a relatively cheap replacement online. Had a look at skoda 7zap but couldn't find part number / decent replacement. My abs light is also on I can't get the codes through my code reader and I've got vagcom but can't access it at the moment. Any other way to find out what's wrong? Quick visual inspection showed a hose behind the abs popped off but that turned out to be the rear washer pipe! Checked the fuse and looks okay to me. Any common issues with sensors etc? Light was off and on for a wee while now is on permanently. Any common failures? Thanks in advance!

I got one from TPS last week for £40 Inc VAT

Jacked the car up today and gave the rest drum a good few whacks with a hammer which loosened all the rust up and cars running smoothly now. I tried moving the car forward and back with pressing the pedal but was still stuck on, was worth a go anyway!

Thanks guys I'll give that a go and I'll update with how I get on. I think they could do with cleaning out but they have rounded screws so I don't really want to if I can get away with it

Thanks for the replies guys I've been away and came back to this today. I have the car working now after a long time left in the driveway. I'll write up what happened incase anyone has the same issue. When looking for clutch cylinders I couldn't find the one i needed. Although I didn't have the O-Ring which sits on the connecting pipe. This caused lots of leaking which was immediately noticeable. I sourced numerous o rings which didn't fit right so I ordered the genuine part online which took over a week to arrive and cost £10. This also didn't solve my issue. I gave tps my registration and ordered a new slave cylinder through them but when I went to pick it up it was the wrong one (looked to be anyway). The guy from tps showed me that the pipe which connects onto the slave cylinder has been superceeded about 6 times which means that my old pipe is not compatible with my new slave cylinder. This was fortunately the issue so £60 later for a new pipe the clutch feels good as new... However because the handbrake has been on for almost 2 months (car was jacked up at front) the rear wheels are seized. I managed to un-seize one wheel by driving up the drive but the other one won't budge. Any tips for solving this? I've previously smacked the drum with a hammer which has worked but any other ways of doing it?

I have replaced the master cylinder now. I managed to get my hands on a Haynes manual which wasn't great but pointed me in the right direction. Very fiddly job but not difficult so to speak. However I also need to replace my slave cylinder (which I have done before). However I rounded off the bleed nipple then snapped it trying to get it out. I ordered a new one from ebay and its the wrong part (nipple hits gear linkage). So I ordered another one and same thing it doesn't fit (pipe and bleed nipple hit of gear box at wrong angle). Can anyone link me to the correct clutch slave cylinder for fabia mk1 1.4tdi 06 plate? Thanks

Car has been off the road since November now. I'm going to break it for parts in the coming weeks. If anyone wants parts please pm me. Main parts will be the lsd, shocks/springs, Hybrid turbo and ti interior (heated seats) If anyone is interested in full car offers are welcome

I recently stated having issues with my skoda fabia mk1 1.4tdi gears. Gears were crunching quite a bit and taking more force to engage. I bled the slave cylinder and it drove fine for a day or two. The pedal still felt good though I ordered a new slave cylinder to see if it was that as I thought this would be more likely than master. I went to replace the slave and I received the wrong part (the bleed nipping is hitting gear linkage). Once out the old slave cylinder looks okay to me and no obvious signs of fluid. Inbetween this I spoke to a mechanic who suspected it to be the master cylinder. He told me it's behind the pedal but didn't go into anymore detail. Can anyone help with the process of replacing it? I pulled out the small panel under steering wheel and I can see the master. Do I need to jack the car up and go in from the engine bay side? Any help would be much appreciated. On a side note I've been looking at buying a mk1 vrs to replace my 1.4tdi. I haven't looked in a while but it seems the prices have went up? Anyone looking at selling soon? Thanks

For sale I have a Alfa Romeo 147 1.9JTD M-JET Turismo 3-door. I have owned the car for 6 months now however I now require a 5 door. I bought the car on 124,000 miles and is now on 130,500 miles. In that time I have performed some work myself however the previous owner had all work carried out by Autolusso Dunstable, with no expense spared. The car has all the receipts to back this up. The car comes with a full MOT and service history, a thick folder of paperwork / receipts in date order, and a fully stamped service book. Two keys are included. There are four previous owners before me. Stock Car • Year – 2006 (registration 04/04/06). • Mileage – 130,500 (rising as used daily). • Colour – Nero Metallico (metallic black); now wrapped in 3M Gloss Black Rose. • Location – Carnoustie, DD7 7LL (will deliver anywhere within reason if travel costs are covered). • Transmission – manual, 6 speed. • Engine – 150bhp, CF3 engine with no swirl flaps. Now pushing >250bhp. • Trim – Turismo (now upgraded to TI spec with heated black Recaro seats). • Options – cruise control, air conditioning. Modifications • Exterior: 3M wrap: On 02/06/16 the car was wrapped in 3M Gloss Black Rose, with the roof and Scudetto in black carbon fibre. This was done by Bristol Blue Customs for £1000 and has 3.5 years of its 5-year warranty remaining. The car was wrapped as the original black paintwork was looking tatty could do with a respray; wrapping was a cheaper option to get a pretty unique looking car. Receipt included. Dent removal: Before wrapping, every single car park ding and dent removed by Dentpusher on 12/04/16 for £240. Receipt included. • Interior: Cruise Control: Retrofitted TI leather seats: In June 2015 the previous owner purchased an excellent condition set of black leather Recaro seats from a TI and fitted himself. These seats are extremely comfortable and still in perfect condition, with no visible wear, including on the driver’s side bolster. The seats cost £300. Since then I purchased a written off 147 Ti to transfer the interior from. This included kick panels, carpet, headliner, sun-visors,under dash, glove box, grab handles, door cards, parcel shelf and all plastic trim pieces. There is no cream interior left. In-Car Entertainment: Pioneer SPH-DA120 head unit with Apple Carplay. Hertz ESK 165L front door component speakers, with mini amps in doors. JL Audio JX400/4D amplifier. Wiring for sub/amp in boot. - Subwoofer in photos is not included Front door sound-deadening. The head unit is so useful for navigation and making/receiving phone calls; while the front speakers can be turned up high and sound crisp and clear without sounding like a boy racer. A sub/amp package can be plug and play to fill in any bass that you’re missing. All professionally fitted with receipts. Cost >£700. • Suspension & Brakes: Shocks – FK ZZAL High Tec front & rear shocks, Jan 2015. Springs – H&R springs, lowered 35mm front and rear, Jan 2015. Brakes – Performance Friction Z-rated pads; fitted by Autolusso, June 2017. • Performance: Autolusso Silicone Upper/Lower Turbo Hoses - Blue, May 2015. Clutch – 3.2 GTA clutch kit, June 2015. Solid flywheel conversion – Autolusso conversion, June 2015. EGR delete & blanking plate – Autolusso, April 2016. Quaife Limited Slip Differential – Autolusso, June 2017. Hybrid Turbo & Remap – Turbo Dynamics Billet GT1756V Hybrid Turbo, June 2017. Decat downpipe – Autolusso, June 2017. M-Tech Short Shift – Ian Studley Cars, November 2017. Prowler exhaust (back box only). Changed the tone of the car, a lot nicer but not much louder. August 2018 • Wheels: 17” “Super Sport” alloys, refurbed in Shadow Chrome (could do with another refurb). Front tyres – Goodyear Eagle F1 ASY3 215/45/R17 – bought June 2018 Rear tyres –Mid end tyres (will find the brand tomorrow) 215/45/R17 – bought June 2018. Maintenance History Here, I will detail and list all maintenance work (including modifications as these usually occurred at the same time) done during my / previous owners ownership, with prices. 13/08/2013: Repair of broken timing belt. 16 rockers, rocker cover gasket, belt + water pump kit, injector seals. Total - £850 at Autolusso. 14/06/2014: MOT & premium service (fuel/air/pollen/oil filter; Valvoline 10w40 Max Life Semi Synth; air-con regas) Replaced front upper wishbones (both) with powerflex. Front droplink. Rear wheel bearing. 2x Nexen tyres. Total - £1348.73 at Autolusso. 22/11/2014: Replaced heater control panel, £114 at Autolusso. 11/06/2015: MOT & premium service (oil changed to Titan synthetic MC 10W-40). Gear linkage bush. Waxoyl under seal treatment + rust inhibitor. Rear wheel bearing. Rear discs & pads. GTA clutch. Solid flywheel conversion. Total - £683.47 at Autolusso. 27/06/2015: Gearbox diff oil seal. C630 nearside diff seal. Offside diff seal. Total - £85.43 at Autolusso. 07/08/2015: Brake light switch - £47.68 at Autolusso. 04/04/2016: EGR delete, blanking plate, remap. Replacement thermostat. Total – £416.15 at Autolusso. 29/06/2016: MOT & premium service. 2x front tyres. Handbrake cables. Total - £623.74. 15/07/2016: Clutch slave cylinder - £125.41 at Autolusso. 17/12/2016: Resolved ABS & VDC warning lights - £132 at Autolusso. 21/06/2017: MOT & premium service. Cambelt + waterpump (118804 miles). Quaife LSD. Hybrid Turbo. Top suspension arm – N/S and O/S. O/S drop link. Total - £3785.29 at Autolusso. 11/09/2017: Lower suspension arm, N/S - £187.02 at Ian Studley Cars. 27/11/2017: Drove into a cat on the M5. New front bumper purchased from Autolusso, re-wrapped by Bristol Blue Customs. New intercooler fitted by Ian Studley Cars - £225.88. 12/07/2018: MOT REPAIRS / PREP Airbag light removed from Dash (this was done after cleaning connectors underneath the front seats). Nearside cv boots replaced before MOT. Put too much grease which spun onto brake pads causing brake imbalance. Cleaned and passed. 30/07/2018: I replaced the AC unit replaced (clutch / bearings had gone on it). Regassed after. (£40 parts only) 15/08/2018: I replaced the rear brake pads with brembo pads (£30 parts only). Installed new Prowler exhaust (backbox only) (£90 part only). 8/09/2018: I replaced all four glow plugs (£30 parts only). Autolusso diagnosed a stuck glow plug however this was successfully removed and four new bosch plugs installed. This removed the warning light from the dash. 20/10/2018: One of the final things I thought to do before selling is fix the dreaded door strap hinges. Because the doors are so heavy in the 3 door they wear the hinges down. I replaced them with the later used ones which don't knock when opened. Bad Bits Paintwork under the wrap isn’t great, so could do with a respray if you ever remove the wrap. Alloys could do with a refurb The car needs to be driven in a certain way to avoid slipping the clutch. Because the car has so much low down torque and it's a petrol clutch the clutch can slip. For the clutch to not slip it needs to be driven like a petrol, so high revs if going fast and not full throttle low down. However it is easy to drive this way and is not an issue for normal driving, only to keep in mind if driving fast. The 2nd gear synchromesh is also broken and so to downshift to 2nd double de-clutching / rev matching is required. The wrap on the bumper was redone when the previous owner hit a cat , the wrap is peeling slightly at one part which I will get fixed if I have time. I have taken all this into account however if I have time I will replace clutch with a stage 2 deisel clutch and gearbox at same time but neither of these issues are major. Here is a album of photos from previous owner: https://imgur.com/a/TORG4 Summary: In conclusion, this is an insanely fast and unique car which has had almost £10,000 spent on it to get it to my desired spec. It looks great, has excellent in car entertainment, handles well, and pushes >250bhp safely due to the LSD. Every major component has been replaced or upgraded in the last 4 years so I don’t foresee any major expenses for the next owner, as long as servicing is kept up to date (I recommend to keep going to Autolusso as they know the car pretty well!). I have always driven the car with mechanical sympathy. Any work I carried out was with the help of a mechanic friend (when needed). My reason for selling: I need a 5 door. I thought a 3 door would be okay however I will be doing liftshares and need more space in the back. I would swap for a skoda fabia vrs Test drives are welcome or I am happy to take anyone out in it. I am also happy to arrange delivery / pickup from airports or train stations. I will deliver anywhere (within reason) if travel costs are covered. I would be interested in swapping for a mk1 fabia vrs, Must have good bodywork and history. £1800 or nearest offer.