Xylynx

Does anyone know the reason why some 1.4 TDI have this cooler and some don't? Was the design changed to allow the system to tolerate higher fuel temperatures?

@NZ100 sorry for the delay in replying. I'm fairly sure the yellow and violet wires form part of the load management system so that the CCM can shut off the seats if the battery voltage drops too low. The connections should be as follows: Violet - Connector XS2 Pin 10 on CCM Yellow - Connector XS2 Pin 3 on CCM Hope this helps!

The two large pins are what actually supply power to the elements but looking at the wiring diagram there is a control module under the seat. On that module there should be a 2 pin connector with wires going to the seat backrest. Unplug this and measure the resistance between the pins. The acceptable values are: The processes of checking the cushion elements differs if he seats are leather or fabric. Leather: To check the element in the cushion you need to unplug the 8-pin connector on the module and measure between PIN 4 and PIN 7 on that connector. The acceptable values for this measurement are: Fabric: To check the element in the cushion you need to unplug the 8-pin connector on the module and measure between PIN 2 on the 2 pin connector and PIN 7 on the 8 pin connector you just unplugged. The acceptable values for this measurement are: Hope this helps

They radio can automatically authenticate with the car as you said. This is so you have to input the radio code every time you take your battery off for example. However, the radios still do have a radio code that is used if the automatic system doesn't work or if you move the radio to another car. So yes, the radio will work in your car, providing you get the code

@Tech1e is right, just checked the wiring diagram and its fuse 63, 15 amp. The below quote is from the test procedure for the seats and is showing the resistance the heating elements should measure. If you have got a picture of the connectors on your seats I should be able to tell you what pins to measure

They seem to be about 30 amps from the few pictures I've found. I'll try and check the wiring diagram when I get home

You should be able to measure the resistance of the elements in the seat with a multi-meter , I'll try and find some pin outs tonight. If I were to guess the seats probably draw between 20 and 50 watts so their resistance should be something between 2 and 10 ohms very roughly, and definitely not open circuit or a dead short.

@Chris Berry My car, as with many Fabia's, has the same issue as yours with rust on the sills, arches and a slight amount forming on the bottom of front doors. The arches and doors are going to be done at a bodyshop but the sills I going to do myself, probably this weekend. They're going to be ground back, have several coats of Bilt Hamber Deox-Gel applied on any rusty areas, then be coated in BH Electrox Zinc coating and finally stone chipped in black. Probably a bit over the top but I'll post some picture when its done!

No worries!

@JWvrs25 I'm fairly sure these are what you mean? 6Y6863459F 47H That should be the middle bit where the lock is. 6Y6864583C 47H That should be the left bit of trim that attaches to it 6Y6864584C 47H That should be the right bit of trim that attaches to it

@Wench For a 2002 RHD Fabia with Halogens the part numbers you need are: Left Headlamp: 6Y2 941 015 H Right Headlamp: 6Y2 941 016 H

If we're thinking of the same part the holes should rectangular and there should be three of them, one in the centre and one at each side of the subframe that the undertray screws into. The part you need is this which is available from eBay for £0.99: N 10327102

What year is your car and do you need the halogen headlamps or Xenon? Thanks

I've recently fitter cruise control to my 2006 1.4 TDI Fabia. It took about a day and a half in total but that was because I removed the entire dash as it makes the whole process a lot easier. I also spent quite a while cleaning the dash and adding some additional wiring for a radio, so if you didn't do that you can get the whole job done easily in a day. The textual part of the instructions is here (This is only English but there is Czech and German too): http://vwgolfr32.co.uk/fabiaccs.pdf The translation is terrible but it gives you a rough idea and also explains the VCDS coding fairly well too. Also those instructions only talk about the T11a connector, which as you mentioned, is absent on newer cars (including mine). If that is case with your car you need to use the T11b connector as shown in that diagram you posted. As for my experience with fitting it, taking the dash out is no where near as bad as it sounds and makes the job far easier than laying in the footwell trying to push a tiny pin into a connector that you can't see and can barely reach. The only things to note are: The steering wheel needs a spline bit to remove it, but you don't have to replace the nut unless its been used more than 5 times (unlikely) On my car at-least the bolts that hold the passenger airbag to the dash bar cross-thread VERY easily and it took me about an hour to get them back in correctly When you're fitting the washer/wiper and cruise control stalk back onto the steering column you need to tighten the clamp loosely, fit the clock spring and then just push the wheel onto the spline but don't bolt it on. You then have to measure from the front of the clock spring to the back of the wheel and adjust the position of the stalks until the distance is approx. 2.5 mm. I assume you could have the distance set at whatever felt best but that's the value recommended in the service book. Hope that helps and if you have more questions I'll try and help the best I can. I'll also try and get some pictures of the process to help you out.

Have you tried starting the car? Some of the those lights should go off when the engine is running