Xylynx

Does anyone know the reason why some 1.4 TDI have this cooler and some don't? Was the design changed to allow the system to tolerate higher fuel temperatures?

@NZ100 sorry for the delay in replying. I'm fairly sure the yellow and violet wires form part of the load management system so that the CCM can shut off the seats if the battery voltage drops too low. The connections should be as follows: Violet - Connector XS2 Pin 10 on CCM Yellow - Connector XS2 Pin 3 on CCM Hope this helps!

The two large pins are what actually supply power to the elements but looking at the wiring diagram there is a control module under the seat. On that module there should be a 2 pin connector with wires going to the seat backrest. Unplug this and measure the resistance between the pins. The acceptable values are: The processes of checking the cushion elements differs if he seats are leather or fabric. Leather: To check the element in the cushion you need to unplug the 8-pin connector on the module and measure between PIN 4 and PIN 7 on that connector. The acceptable values for this measurement are: Fabric: To check the element in the cushion you need to unplug the 8-pin connector on the module and measure between PIN 2 on the 2 pin connector and PIN 7 on the 8 pin connector you just unplugged. The acceptable values for this measurement are: Hope this helps

They radio can automatically authenticate with the car as you said. This is so you have to input the radio code every time you take your battery off for example. However, the radios still do have a radio code that is used if the automatic system doesn't work or if you move the radio to another car. So yes, the radio will work in your car, providing you get the code

@Tech1e is right, just checked the wiring diagram and its fuse 63, 15 amp. The below quote is from the test procedure for the seats and is showing the resistance the heating elements should measure. If you have got a picture of the connectors on your seats I should be able to tell you what pins to measure

They seem to be about 30 amps from the few pictures I've found. I'll try and check the wiring diagram when I get home

You should be able to measure the resistance of the elements in the seat with a multi-meter , I'll try and find some pin outs tonight. If I were to guess the seats probably draw between 20 and 50 watts so their resistance should be something between 2 and 10 ohms very roughly, and definitely not open circuit or a dead short.

@Chris Berry My car, as with many Fabia's, has the same issue as yours with rust on the sills, arches and a slight amount forming on the bottom of front doors. The arches and doors are going to be done at a bodyshop but the sills I going to do myself, probably this weekend. They're going to be ground back, have several coats of Bilt Hamber Deox-Gel applied on any rusty areas, then be coated in BH Electrox Zinc coating and finally stone chipped in black. Probably a bit over the top but I'll post some picture when its done!

No worries!

@JWvrs25 I'm fairly sure these are what you mean? 6Y6863459F 47H That should be the middle bit where the lock is. 6Y6864583C 47H That should be the left bit of trim that attaches to it 6Y6864584C 47H That should be the right bit of trim that attaches to it

@Wench For a 2002 RHD Fabia with Halogens the part numbers you need are: Left Headlamp: 6Y2 941 015 H Right Headlamp: 6Y2 941 016 H

If we're thinking of the same part the holes should rectangular and there should be three of them, one in the centre and one at each side of the subframe that the undertray screws into. The part you need is this which is available from eBay for £0.99: N 10327102

What year is your car and do you need the halogen headlamps or Xenon? Thanks

I've recently fitter cruise control to my 2006 1.4 TDI Fabia. It took about a day and a half in total but that was because I removed the entire dash as it makes the whole process a lot easier. I also spent quite a while cleaning the dash and adding some additional wiring for a radio, so if you didn't do that you can get the whole job done easily in a day. The textual part of the instructions is here (This is only English but there is Czech and German too): http://vwgolfr32.co.uk/fabiaccs.pdf The translation is terrible but it gives you a rough idea and also explains the VCDS coding fairly well too. Also those instructions only talk about the T11a connector, which as you mentioned, is absent on newer cars (including mine). If that is case with your car you need to use the T11b connector as shown in that diagram you posted. As for my experience with fitting it, taking the dash out is no where near as bad as it sounds and makes the job far easier than laying in the footwell trying to push a tiny pin into a connector that you can't see and can barely reach. The only things to note are: The steering wheel needs a spline bit to remove it, but you don't have to replace the nut unless its been used more than 5 times (unlikely) On my car at-least the bolts that hold the passenger airbag to the dash bar cross-thread VERY easily and it took me about an hour to get them back in correctly When you're fitting the washer/wiper and cruise control stalk back onto the steering column you need to tighten the clamp loosely, fit the clock spring and then just push the wheel onto the spline but don't bolt it on. You then have to measure from the front of the clock spring to the back of the wheel and adjust the position of the stalks until the distance is approx. 2.5 mm. I assume you could have the distance set at whatever felt best but that's the value recommended in the service book. Hope that helps and if you have more questions I'll try and help the best I can. I'll also try and get some pictures of the process to help you out.

Have you tried starting the car? Some of the those lights should go off when the engine is running

The module is located above the clutch pedal. If you take the lower dash off on the drivers side and look up you'll be able to see the bottom of the module (with the two plastic clips you can see on that picture). I had the dash of my car yesterday to fit cruise control and from what I can tell convivence controller is just held in with clips. With where it's mounted it looks almost impossible to get to those bolts if they were there, even with the entire dash off. I think the best idea is probably just to remove the lower dash and see how much you can move the module / clip it back in.

@JWvrs25 surely this would only be an issue with a can that vents to atmosphere? Most cans are designed as a sealed system that goes in line with PCV tube and just remove the oil vapour while still allowing the turbo to pull a vacuum through the can.

To my understanding the main reason for a turbo blanket is to protect parts around the turbo from excessive heat and to maybe increase the performance of the turbo by a tiny, tiny, amount due to keeping more energy in the exhaust gas. However, on a standard vrs engine everything is designed to take the heat generated anyway and the performance difference would most likely be unnoticeable. I also think getting one that would fit could be challenge as the turbo is fairly small and the space around it is very limited.

Thanks for all the feedback as always! @JWvrs25 yeah I've heard of this being an issue because darkside now sell the MANN ProVent catch can that uses a paper element filter and has a built in pressure relief system. I'm going to have a look into it and do more research but the Mishimoto can has been ruled out because it omits and pressure regulation and the filter looks very restrictive. If I do decide to get one it'll probably be the eBay one that has the numerous tubes to condense the oil as I can't imagine that this will affect the pressure as it seems very free flowing. I'll let everyone know the results.

I know everyone's got their own opinion on whether they're worth it but I was just wondering if anyone had any feedback on the different designs if catch can that are available. Aside from the eBay special there seems to be two main types, the Mishimoto style, with a bronze filter. And this eBay style which seems to consists of vertical tubes that allow the oil vapour to condense. Does anyone have any information on which of these designs work the best? Thanks

Thanks for all the responses! I've bought two new sachs top mounts and bearing which I should be fitting this weekend. I'll let you know the results.

@KenONeill There is actually two variable weight settings for the steering controller and I've tried them both before and they're just really heavy all the time. And nahh the steering feel is more like very light in the centre and then weighting up to constant level as you turn the wheel

Thanks for all the replies, very helpful as always! @KenONeill I've had VCDS plugged in and their are no fault codes, the steering controller is coded for GTI/RS weight setting however I can't really see how this would change anything. I've had a good luck and the spring seems intact and I'm going to check if its seized tonight. @sepulchraveThe bolts are tight and yeah I've found this out the hard way. The rear mounts I had from them where the correct part but the tolerance were terrible, one fit perfectly and the other was wobbly. Won't be buying again @rum4moYeah that was my thinking, it's had the original cap for 120,000 miles and now its lost 2 in the space of about 5000. Can anyone recommend a good brand for the top mounts. I've heard meyle bearings with sachs mounts is a good option? Also is their any benefit or difference between the standard and vrs/sport variant of the mount? Thank again

I have a Fabia 1 TDI with 140,000 mile on it. It recently went through a MOT with no advisories and it had its console bushes done at around 60,000 by Skoda. I've tried to describe the different things that are happening below. Recently I've noticed that the steering seems vague and just doesn't feel quite right. Its hard to explain but sometimes it feels as if the front wheels snap slightly left or right while going in a straight line, even though the wheel doesn't move. Going around gentle, fairly fast corners also just feels "wrong" and like what you input on the wheel doesn't really translate to what actually happens. There's no clunking or excessive play when moving the wheel with the engine off and the no discernible play in the wheel itself when the car is up on a jack. Another more odd feeling is that coming up to junctions when braking it sometimes feels as if the passenger side wheel turns slightly or drops and comes under the car? It's hard to explain but that's the best I can do. Its had new suspension top mounts about 20000 miles ago that were from GSF. In the fabia there is a little dust cover that goes over the top of the strut. I noticed it was missing so replaced it, it has since gone missing again and it seems that the strut is coming up an poking it out. When you bounce the car up and down you can see the strut top moves but only by a couple of millimeters, is this acceptable? I know its an economy car and isn't meant to be sporty but it just doesn't seem right. Does anyone have any idea what this could be or am I just being over expecting? Cheers

I had this issue with mine, I've listed a few different approaches form different forums and people. Fix 1 is "official" fix and the others have apparently work for some people and not for others. Fix 1 Put the windows up and take the battery off. After a few minutes reconnect the battery, this resets the controller Hold the window down button until the window reaches the bottom and continue to hold for a couple of seconds. Hold the window up button until the window reaches the top and continue to hold for a couple of second. You need to do this for both the passenger and drivers side window. This re calibrates the regulators and should fix the issue. Fix 2 Put the windows up and take the battery off. After a few minutes reconnect the battery, this resets the controller Put the key in the drivers door and turn to the unlocked position to put the windows down, hold for a few seconds Turn the key the other way to put the windows up, hold for a few seconds. Fix 3 Do fix 1 but as the window is reaching the top place your hand on the glass and apply pressure upwards to "help it". Some people also say the opposite and to apply pressure down to "resist it". I think the logic behind this is that the window regulator sets its force limit based on that initial calibration and if you can increase the force it needs by using your hand, it won't trigger anti- trap during normal use. Generally fix 1 will work but sometimes you might need the others or even combinations. Such as doing Fix 1 then 2 or vica-versa. Hope you get it sorted, Let us know how you get on!