Haladams

Thanks for the explanation and suggestion to leave alone if not broke! I am fortunate in that my local tyre place has a dedicated bay with a laser (I assume it ls laser) alignment device. I could not find a detailed description using search on the replacement of these bushes - do you have any links please?

False alarm! On inspection, it is the spare wheel! (I always leave the car with my friendly garage around the corner before an MoT. They give it an oil and filter change as well as looking it over for anything that might fail - I guess they might have checked the spare pressure and not secure everything properly) But, as I said, the beam bushes must be all of 26 years old, so maybe a preventative maintenance job. I am happy to support a fellow memeber, so pm me some prices on your bushes. Time is not an issue - end Feb or March is fine.

Thanks! I am pretty sure that it is the bush, but in any case it is 26 years old and can do with a change. Time and space not a problem. Will? I am sure I can work it up! I am fortunate in that I have a two post lift to make it easier. Tell me more on your super-bush, and put me down for two please if as you say, they are the bees knees…

I am beginning to hear a slight thud type noise from the right side rear. Knowing that all the suspension bushings are new, I am worried that it might be the bushing on the rear beam... A few quick questions please from anyone familiar with this part of the car: I presume, like all other bushes, the beam bush can, and does, fail - is it a common issue? Can one still buy bushes for the beam? Is it a laborious/difficult job to replace these bushes (I am guessing yes due to all the components that need removing...)? Can it be done without disconnecting the brakes? As always, comments appreciated.

Totally agree, and would have used some, but the trouble is that like so many things today, switches and relays are encased without any access! Yes, you can open up these ignition switches, but after my last attempt many moons ago with an Audi switch, never again..😂 Anyway - all good. Autodoc were their usual efficient selves, so with new switch fitted, back on the road as if nowt has happened..

Panic over! I spent the evening unseating and reseating each fuse and relay - and giving each relay a sharp knock! All this did not make any difference, but then playing with the switch, I noticed that if I pressed hard on the key and turned the key very slowly, the lights came on and promptly went off again... so, faulty switch!

I am really upset☹️ seven years my little Pick Up has not thrown any wobblies or let me down. Until this morning! Parked up a few days ago but on starting the engine this morning, no warning lights came on when I put the ignition switch to position 2. But, on position 3, the engine turns over very fast (I have a hi gear starter fitted) but it fails to start. Thinking it might be the dreaded ignition switch issue, I pulled it out and it looks fine (indeed it worked fine before), checked voltage on the live feed - 12.9V (obviously a good voltage there as the motor turns over...) manually connected the 12V to the ignition wire and still no ignition lights...checked all fuses are ok. Battery is new two weeks ago and well charged. All the wiring is as the day it left the factory. My only worry is relay R7. I only have a few relays in the panel as the car is a Pick Up and pretty basic, but one of them, R7, is listed in the manual as ignition switch unloader relay (X-relay) - what pray does this relay do, does anyone know? I searched as best I could but could not find anything that resembles this problem. It is pretty clear that 12V is not getting to the box that opens up everything. I am currently looking for a wiring diagram without much joy but will continue. If anyone can pin point this problem, I 'd be very grateful!

I cannot complain. Without much of a wait, they hooked the car up to a box, verified the two (there are two..?)immobiliser modules are good and one key was dodgy. New one copied, 80€ No definitive comment on the duff key, other tham maybe a good idea not to bunch the Verisure magnetic tag to my keys… Happy days😂

I should have mentioned that I taped the Verisure tag near the ignition switch and it did not affect the starting with my good 'spare' key, but a couple of times the normal key I use would not start. I am convinced that the tag next to the key in my pocket is the culprit... The key does not have a battery...I think my original set of keys had a battery but it was for the little flashlight in the key. Since my barrel collapsed, the replacement had two keys different from the flat blade ones before where the locksmith drilled a small hole in the plastic, popped the little chip into the hole and hot melted the surrounding plastic over. Just called my local VW service that also covers Skoda who agrees with you that if it was the central module it would show up more often. They says no problem, they can code a new or an additional transponder key. Apparantly this needs to be done on a VAG1552 machine, which they have.... OK, I guess it will cost me, but honestly, it will be worth it just to have the old girl in perfect shape again. I will quickly ask around if there is a local auto key specialist nearby though.

The Midget was a good solid car - the good old trooper Morris Minor in sport trim! I had one for a while - the only thing I hated was the noise of the starter motor🤣 OK, yesterday I tried several starts with a couple times it would not fire, each time using the one key - the one I used all the time that has the Verisure tag on the key ring. The other, ‘spare’ key fine for at least a dozen starts throughout the day. Now, a question: is it possible that over time the magnetic Verisure tag can upset an immobiliser transponder if continually side by side?

Thanks Nigel Yes, maybe over reacting thinking I may have to ditch the truck! But I have heard of some older cars having to go for the most ridiculous of things and this girl is in such good condition, it will be a pity to lose her! Both keys are quite new, maybe a year or so following the tumblers in the barrel letting go - luckily at home - and I could not find a new lock with the traditional flat blade, so my local key bar removed the transponder chip from each old key and with the deft use of a soldering iron, inserted them into the new keys quite neatly. But I shall heed your advice and maybe alternate their use. Nothing hanging off the key ring other than a brass yale key for a front door. So maybe the start of something. Hopefully only the coil transmitter ring around the ignition lock so I shall hunt for a new one just in case. Started four more times today on the first kick... Edit: I tell a lie!! also on the key ring is a Verisure magnetic disc transponder... I wonder if, despite it never happening before, the immobiliser transmitter decided to latch onto this...?😀

Five years plus and my Felicia Pick Up (diesel) starts first hit come rain and shine, then this morning, for no reason would not start! Went in to get the spare key - starts almost before I turn the key! Drove ten kms, returned home and tried the old key. Starts immediately. Tried again and starts. And again...all good😅 My questions: Is this common? Is it a sign that the immobiliser is on the way out? Is it an immobiliser transmit issue or a chip in the key issue? Can the chip in the key fail even? I will be absolutely gutted if I have to ditch the truck simply because of an immobiliser fault - can one buy a new immobiliser even? Help really appreciated and thanked!

Not an uncommon issue on older cars, esp the 1.9. Do not leave the temp sensor unplugged - you might need it one day... cooling is pretty bomb proof on the 1.9 and may not need intervention, but your call. 1. Have a really good service. Even give the top end an old fashioned de-coke. 2. Make sure your glow plugs are good. Better, fit four new ones. 3. Look on ebay for 'Diesel hot start'. Often associated with Range-Rover or BMW. A simple little black box about a tenner. Install per instructions. 4. Buy and fit a High Torque starter. All worth every penny. Each time you start - hot or cold, wait for the orange light to go out and hit the starter for an instant start. Keep the engine well serviced, with especial attention to the glow plugs and use the best quality fuel that you can. I did this six years ago and never looked back. I hardly hear the engine turn over before it starts.

I'd be happy to try Kayaba this time around - what do most think is best, gas or oil? Mostly the truck will be empty, with maybe one or two full loads per year...

Good morning The Felicia model seems to have now dropped off the Koni catalog, but I am sure others are using the same shock absorbers - notably the Fabia or Favorit maybe? Does any one have records of part numbers from the old days? I badly need two rears for a 1.9D pick up and will take two fronts if I can find any. Alternatively, part numbers of other solid manufacturers - eg Spax? I am fed up with the cheap supply from the likes of Autodoc. Thanks for any help!