RacingGreen

I understand that the DS2500 are very good but I recall they don't have the R90 approval so personally wouldn't go there. I do very few miles so don't get through pads.

Many thanks - I'll either get the mk3 Superb Mintex front or possibly do what I really originally whated to do and be using RacingLine. I've had no issues with YellowStuff on my old 9-5Aero or on our 2010 Tiguan but I'm not sure if want the yellow on my Sleeper grey V6 as I'm going for stealth.

Its nice to get a trusted local place to do this sort of stuff. I will be getting my local trusted workshop to do the rear arms and the rear discs and pads + full bleed in a few weeks after I get the front end all replaced.

Good on you! Maybe get the lower rear spring platform arms changed as well??

Help / clarification please ... I want to get some improved front pads on my 2014 3.6. I was hoping to get Mintex MRM1801 (replacement for the M1144) but they don't do them in this fitment, only their standard material - https://www.brakebook.com/bb/mintex/en_GB/applicationSearch.xhtml Can anybody confirm if the later Mk3 Superb, or any MQB chassis for that matter, had the same or different 340mm calliper setup because the dimensions for the Mk3 pad are identical to the Mk2 but they list a different part number!?

You've done well there @Nackuk - I could hear mine creaking with the rust when I was jacking them up to get the shock bolt torqued at road height. [img] The other thing I would say is just get on and take out the rear arch liner when you are doing any work around this area and have a good jet-wash around, address any obvious corrosion (wire brush, rust-proofing primer and a waft of topcoat) and then spray in something waxy or oily (I'm going to try Lanoguard). [img] [img]

From my recent experience of doing a Tiguan Mk1, a Golf Mk5 and now the Superb Mk2 I would say change everything if you have the back end in bits. Spring Shock Spring rubbers Bump stops Shock top mount ALL bolts Also seriously look at the condition of the rear spring platform arms - My 10y/o 50k miles Mk2 Superb arms are rotten. Unfortunately I cant get the inner bolt out of the arm so it needs to go to the local workshop for the arm replacement, but I will have done the shock and added the spring and rubbers.

I totally get the point, but when doing this job at home, on axle stands there is nothing to tie down to. Slow and steady, keep checking everything and have the front of the car chocked, ideally both front wheels on the car just in case. The problem might come if the front is also on a stand, but the golf was on a stand under the main big front subframe bolt of the rear console bush and there was no worries of it moving.

The golf was just too low to do that or even to get up on the ramps and I didnt have anything to make the ramps entry shallower :-( Even then, It looks a pig of a job to do with the wheel on?? Holding a retaining spanner on one side and also getting the torque wrench in there? Doing that from UNDER the car when you could do it from the outside of the car if you just jack up the spring platform / hub.

Any thoughts about actually (gently) jacking up from the subframe mounting point? If its ok to support it from? NB - on my golf, with Racingline (VWR) springs in it, when I jacked up the lower suspension arm to set the ride height for the final torquing of the bolts the car was raising off the axle stands - I'm expecting the same with the B12 kit when I fit it. So, actually carefully jacking under a sound spring platform arm seems to be ok, but not my first choice!!

If you totally get stuck, try changing the crank position sensor. Notoriously fragile item on any car and will give those symptoms of perfectly fine car just stopping dead when running ok. If it cranks and cranks but doesn't catch then its highly likely. I didn't have any fault codes though (Golf 5 GTi)! Otherwise, check that the low pressure fuel pump under the rear bench is priming when you open the drivers door and you could try some easystart spray in the inlet to determine if the are sparks. I drew a blank with those methods and all the fuses looked ok so I just went for the crank sensor as I got a QH one off ebay for £15 new old stock.

I'm in the middle of this job (write-up to follow later as part of a bigger project) and am struggling to locate suitable axle stand points as if jacking up from the side rail there isn't any space left to put the stand in beside the trolly jack. In the pic above it looks like the axle stand is under the rear subframe, just in from the mounting bolt - is this considered ok? Or any other suggestions? On my Mk5 Golf the car is so short and much stiffer than the Skoda that I can jack the front and the rear wheels come off the ground!!

That rings a bell yes, there is a difference in the shape of the repair bracket.

Just a point to note, if you find the spring you want but it the rear will sit lower then the Audi TT rear top rubber mount is about 7mm thicker. Its a trick used on Golfs etc when lowering to get the rear end back up and stop it looking silly low.

Does anybody have any experience of comparing various aftermarket arms / kits? I need the main lower spring platform arm immediately but will get a full kit as all the others will need replacing over the coming year. My interest is to know if any of the brands use thicker metal or are made 'better'? I have come across one that states its 'modified / heavy duty' but initial enquiries seem to suggest its only the rubbers that are better quality. I will be poly bushing so that is of no consequence. Also, are there any differences in the fitment across the various PQ35/45 platforms? Not all listings seem to be applicable to all versions of the VAG ranges covered but I cannot see it is as simple as being one for 2wd and one for 4wd?

Here is one provider of the repair brackets, for what its worth. I cant remember if it is who I used on my Tiguan (plastic manifold) but they certainly were in consideration. https://x8r.co.uk/common-fault-solutions/volkswagen/inlet-intake-manifold-repair.html

Just bumping this - wondering if anybody has stumbled across anything on the net about this? I've going to be getting a V6 Superb soon and interested if there is anything beyond a full engine swap that would get the bulk of the R36 unmapped power ...

I see that this was discussed many years ago about why the Superb only had 260ps and the R36 and CC had 300ps. The comments suggested it was purely remapping but a look about now and the Skoda only gets mapped to something approaching the VW figures but not to the 320 that can be had on the Passat. This suggests some other differences - I've trawled t'Internet but can only find a passing reference to a different intake manifold on (posdibly) earlier Passat's. Anyone got any thoughts / suggestions on this? Also, is the more recent Porsche 3.6 remotely similar to the Superb / Passat engine?