mdureadi

No, I don't think so. It is not during a DPF regeneration. The temperature can also rise by another one or two bars and then drop again. This happens even when there is no DPF regeneration. No, I don't think so. It is not during a DPF regeneration. The temperature can also rise by another one or two bars and then drop again. This happens even when there is no DPF regeneration.

There are no bubbles in the expansion tank, there are no coolant leaks, and the oil and coolant are not mixing. The water pump is working. However, when checking the diagnostics, we found that the coolant temperature at the radiator outlet is 67°C, while the engine coolant temperature is 98°C. As the engine temperature increases, the temperature continues to rise, and the radiator fan starts running at maximum speed. We purchased a MAHLE thermostat, but it did not work properly, so it was removed and replaced with an OSSCА thermostat. The OSSCA thermostat is currently working.

Vehicle: Skoda Octavia 2012 Engine: 1.6 TDI CAYA I have been experiencing an intermittent engine cooling problem. I replaced the radiator, water pump, and thermostat housing. I first tried a Mahle thermostat, then installed an OSSCA 87°C thermostat. The coolant was properly bled, the cooling fan works, and there is a steady coolant return flow to the expansion tank. There is no coolant loss. During normal driving, the engine temperature usually stays at 90°C on the dashboard. However, after longer drives or sometimes even during short trips, the temperature gauge fluctuates slightly above 90°C and then returns to normal. The radiator fan often runs at high speed and continues for about 30 seconds after the engine is switched off, even after relatively short trips and without using the A/C. VCDS readings while idling show: Engine coolant temperature: 98°C Radiator outlet coolant temperature: 58-67°C The coolant temperature sometimes fluctuates slowly between 95°C and 98°C. I also replaced the radiator outlet temperature sensor, but the problem remained unchanged. At one point, I had fault code P2122, but it appears to have been caused by a loose accelerator pedal connector and is no longer present. My questions are: 1. Is the thermostat opening correctly? 2. Could the G62 coolant temperature sensor or its wiring be causing this issue? 3. Could there still be air trapped in the cooling system? 4. What is the most likely cause based on these symptoms?