eyalasd

We have rough roads with potholes and similar issues, but I am a careful driver. I have driven cars up to 300,000 km and 150,000 km without replacing bushings in other (older) Škoda cars. Yes, VW quality is going down year by year, so this will definitely be my last VAG car. I’m looking at Renault as a replacement. Prior to the Scala, I had a 2017 Mégane dCi. I drove it from around 70,000 km to 140,000 km, and apart from the A/C evaporator, A/C compressor, and fuel filter housing, I had no issues at all. I sold it because the insurance costs jumped by 100%.

Just an update control arm abushings and right and left enigne mounts got replaced to non Chinese brand and the car feels like new...

Vibrations in the cabinet also knock on putting to r. My recommendation to you if you want to replace those put only the original ones.

Sorry, I could not understand what you meant on your PS comment. The clutch pack was worn it was slipping on every gear - vibration on engaging. You meant that the most common failure is the mechtornic unit? Here in Israel the most common is clutch failures, mech are failing above 100km

Thank you nta16, My scan tool is car scaner using an BT OBD connected to my phone. I think, the timing belt intervals you atthaced are not for warm countries? "Have a look on this site at what other model owners report that have the same DSG." What do you mean, which site? Briskoda?

Hi everyone, and Happy New Year! I’m looking for some advice regarding my Skoda Scala 1.0 DSG. This is my sixth VAG car and my third DSG-equipped vehicle since 2008, so I’m quite familiar with the platform. However, this car has been surprisingly unreliable. The HistoryI’ve owned the car for 1.5 years. I bought it at 53,000 km, and it currently has 70,000 km. In that short time, I have already replaced: Water pump. All three engine mounts: Interestingly, the lower mount has been replaced three times. (A Chinese part lasted two days; a Lemförder lasted five months; I eventually installed the third Lemförder myself). Full clutch set. Steering component: Replaced under warranty due to noise. Current ConcernsI am facing a few issues that make me nervous about the car's future: Dashboard Noise: I hear a vacuum-like "leaking valve" noise from behind the dash at idle or when braking to a stop. It’s more noticeable when it’s cold (under 15°C). My mechanic hasn’t been able to pinpoint the source. Transmission Whistle: There is a faint whistle in 4th and 6th gears. My mechanic claims this is a common sound in all dsg cars, which most people don't notice and isn't a cause for concern. Clutch Data: After the clutch replacement, my scanner shows Clutch 1 friction correction at 99.15% and Clutch 2 at -24% (I don't know what it showed before). My mechanic says this generation of DSG doesn't have the sensors to read this data accurately, and if it were really the case, I would have a light on my dash, which I don't, and the gearbox feels very good. The DilemmaThe car is turning 5 years old soon, which means an expensive timing belt service is due. Why I want to keep it: I love the design, the "Simply Clever" space, the fuel economy, and the low insurance costs. Compared to other Skoda Scalas on the market where I live, mine has very low mileage (70k km vs. the typical 200k km). Why I want to sell: I’ve lost confidence in the reliability and have already spent a lot of money on repairs. What do you think? Are these noises and sensor readings normal for the Scala, or does this sound like "lemon car" that I should sell before the timing belt service? Looking forward to your thoughts!

Hi all, looking for someone who had fitted powerflex mounts inserts (any kind) on a regular road used car and survive to tell his feedback. I have fairly new lemofore mounts and they feel soft, when the car downshift on s mode. I wonder if mounts inserts could improve it or they are going to add too much of judders in the cabin. Thanks

Hi all, I tried again starting with clutchscat 45 c, and it easy to do... They sky increase to 69 quickly but it worked.. I wonder if the clutchs are worn out that at plus 80 c they are struggling for grip, while the manufacturer set the clutchs overheating warning for 200 c....

Thanks, I was reading online and I saw there were several methods suggested, such as reving the engine and keeping the foot on on the break? Or doing the same with the hand break applied and realsing after the reverse is engaged, and there was also the normal way of just let the car doing its thing with the auto hold, which didn't worked as the hill was too steep. And I also saw others complaining on similar experience I had. Therefore I thought it would be good also to ask the great people of briskoda, for their opinion. I am using vgate obd2 connector with car scanner pro, to read the temperature. The temperature outside is around 20-25, which is quite nice ;) Of course there are ways to avoid those situations, but sometimes you don't have a chance to avoid them, so I was wondering if there is a way to approach it better. Eyal

Hi all, Yesterday I was trying to reverse in a stiff hill in my 1.0 tsi dsg scala, clutch center plate temp before starting the reverse was at 73. I engaged reverse removed the foot from the brakes the car did not moved so I gave it a bit of gas and also did not moved. Only after applying the gas at 90% the car started to move but it was feeling like very bad to the car, and was very hard to manage getting it into the parking spot, not sure but I think the clutch was slipping. The clutch temp jumped to 95. I would say that parking at the same spot with a manual 1.0 tsi is also difficult but not as such, and the car doesn't fill like it Is going to fell apart hah... Any good tips on how to manage does in the future?

Hi all, i went to the mechanic abd they basically took many components around the steering wheel, and re assembly it and there is no noise now. They couldn't really narrow down where it came from..

Thank you The sounds comes either on stand or at moving Can you please let me know where are those joints are located and will check?

Thank you, To clarify The clicking noise you can hear from the video is being generated by the steering wheel not by me moving or something :)

Hi all, I am experiencing noises from the steering wheel when turning it, also physically felt as slight resistance in the steering wheel when the noises occur. The noise can be heard in the video. The phenomenon doesn't always occur, it's more frequent since the outside temperature has risen. Sometimes it seems that going over a bump in the road makes it disappear until the next time. I'm not expecting a precise diagnosis, just a direction. Thank you. VID-20250330-WA0049.mp4

I guess that is more difficult, have you tried to look under the car? It was kind of between the cabin the and engine wall in the middle. As of now it is hard for me to take a picture of it as i can't get under the car atm.

Yes it was very dirty! when i purchased the car, the car history showed that the cabin filter wase replaced in April, that was full lie, as the cabin filter was from 2022. lesson learned

Below the car there is extremely small hole, how to find it easily? Turn on the AC on full heat for few mins than change it to full cold, it will drip water and you will see it

Found it,

It is pretty new, i have a new one on the sode, i dont think it is it, but i will check. Do you know where is the drain tube?

Hi, I would like to clean the evaporator as it sometimes smells on fan only, I am interested in the following process, 1. Turning the AC on highest temp for an hour 2. Putting the Car A/C Cleaner AirAid symbiotic Havana Love with the AC inner circulation on 3. Spraying Evaporator cleaner via the AC drain tube, which i can't find? can you please let me know where it is located and how should i access it? Any thoughts comments recommendation is more than welcome!

I will get my adapter in few days,do you under which module it is included for scala?

Found it it is on the gear lever Yes in sport mode there is no coasting I think there is away to cancel coasting in long coding,

Sorry it is the 1.0

HI, up till now i had manual Fabia and then TDI SuperB with DSG 6 Is there a way to make the DSG7 not up shifting gears like crazy? regardless of the speed? once it feels stable speed it up the gear. We are not driving much in the City but, it still very annoying that i am driving in the parking lot at 3rd gear, 20-5kmh, or driving at 5th gear while doing 40 and the motor is struggling to keep up with gear, feels like placing 5th gear in a 5 gear box doing 50, and then you just gives a bit of push it drops to 3rd gear. feels like the car is set up to build speed slowly on the highway to aim for economy. is there a way to control it? other than putting it in manual mode? Maybe setting driving mode? (which I can't find) where is it ? Maybe a remap? Appreciate your responses thank you

Where do you choose driver modes?i found something in the safety tabs but, i didnt felt any difference