Robbijay

These cars/remotes are far too fussy considering it could leave you stranded.

Thanks for that, but when does the warning pop up if it disappears when you push the button? In mine, nothing even happens til I push the button! At the moment when I do that the service warning comes on because it’s due, followed by driver selection??

Of course this could all be avoided if the bloody car did what it was supposed to and actually warned you that the battery was low! My Toyota will flash a yellow key at me for a good few attempts before the battery actually needs changing! I think the difference between the pulse versions is the higher current ones are better for short duration high current demand but won’t last as long overall before starting draining when a demand is placed on them, whereas the lower current one stay at max capacity for a longer overall time but won’t be able to provide as high current if/when needed.

I think I kinda follow that.... I don’t really mind my battery lasting a year. What I do mind is the car NOT TELLING ME WHEN IT SAYS IN THE MANUAL THAT IT SHOULD!! If it just flashes a message up like it should then I’d change the battery or at least ensure I had spares with me.

The round screen?

Just saw this thterad wile ryign to do some research.... about 18months ago i had two fobs for my feb 18 Octavia vRS replaced by skoda as neither worked and putting a new battery in didn't solve anything (I didn;t expect it to as i had no warning on the dash). Fastforward to today and i got the same issue with my third original key. I changed the battery and it didn't work, so I booked it in after assumring them i'd changed the battery. I then remembered that i hd some other branded batteries that i had order and could try. I put one of those Energisers in and it worked again right away, so suspet this was simply the issue with the first 2 as well. on both occasions i had NO warning at all from the car, surely this can't be right? can anyone confirm that they have had the low battery message on anything with a colour screen/MIB2 system?

I’ve had this without realising. Škoda even changed two fobs for me as we thought they were faulty. I only discovered today when it happened to my third original key and the first battery I tried was obviously too old/cheap. Put a brand new energiser in and it works again! annoying that the warning doesn’t work

Hey Guys, So for the first time ever I'm having an issue with this where it just won't update, the HU just sits there wpinning away not doing anything whether I move the MIB2HIGH folder or not. I've got an amundsen MIB2 on a 2018 Octavia vRS. Anyone else had that? My old update is still there so i might just wait til next month.

Back on topic..... I've found the best way to disable S/S is to hardwire a dashcam with parking mode! It never activates until I've driven about 25 miles now! Quite annoying because i liked when i was the second car at a set of lights.

Yeah but it's really easy to get out. The manul in the MySkoda app has instructions on how to do it. you just prize the side cover off the dash (the same angle as the door opens), then theres a hole you can poke your finger in at the bottom of that side to unhook a catch on the bottom and you ligt it up and out (forcefully). Getting it back in is the tricky bit!!

I used a hardwire kit in the Octavia and it’s had no affect I can tell on the DAB. My other cat only has an internal glass mount antenna for dab and I used a wicked chilli adapter from amazon to minimise interference

Confused why you’d want to? The fuse box is behind the glove box.

I now have TSR and hBA! At least it says I do & there are no errors. I haven’t actually driven anywhere yet to see if it works. Thanks for the help guys!!

Y’know, that may be why it didn’t work for A5.... but the post on page one doesn’t mention 09, just module 5F, A5 and 17?

Thanks, Is the code needed for HBA and TSR when you access the A5 module? Been doing IT for years but never tried anything like this before! Will trying at the weekend.

exactly! £45k for a cayman i can tolerate. I'd have a cayman. but it should come with everything that bloody octavia comes with as standard! I don't want much, just CC/carplay and electric seats!

it should be know as "treat them mean and they'll F**k off to hyundai/kia instead!" (Ignore me, I'm still grumpy from looking at the Porsche options last month...)

I'll let you know if i get it working, It seems most of the forum users have! I'd argue its not hidden freebies though. Its VAG holding things back on purpose unless we pay huge sums of money, like blackmail! The car can do it, they just disable it in software unless we pay them!

you should be able to activate that and TSR if you have the high spec camera (which a think all UK cars have, for lane assist, so if'youove got lane assist, you SHOULD be able to turn it on with OBDeleven or VCDS, but I'm having issues!

HI, I'm looking for some help with this. I tried to activate my TSR first, but when i went to the long coding there were no bits/bytes (which i have seen before when i wasn't connected to the car). I tried to enter that security number from above (16:33 something) but it said that code was wrong. At this point I went and reverted the adaptation changes i'd made back as we had to go out and i didn't want to try and drive the car with anything half on/half off! Anyone got any idas why i wasn't seeing the long coding correctly?

thanks for this, what do you mean by a soft reset between each step? use the reset on the app? or switch the ignition off? i dont have 'factory reset' in my lights menu, only the whole csr menu?

Managed to fix it! For anyone who didn't know, the piggyback fuses have to be plugged in the correct way around, especially if you're using an empty slot. If you plug them in the wrong way around you either get no power, or you run through both fuses if you've put another one in!

reviving this to say many thanks! I used it to do the install of a Road Angel Halo pro on our Octavia III hatch. Running wiring in the boot was a bit more fiddly as there were no holes at the top, so i had to run the length of the boot glass to a hole at the bottom and then back up! They seem to have changed the wiring slightly, ALL of my fuses were live even with the ignition off (even for stuff that doesn't work like heated seats/windscreen/AC etc - I tried a lot!). I even tried 38/48 as in the instructions, but although I could detect correct voltage from them (even the swithced one) they didn't work when i plugged the hardwire kit into it, I guess because I don't have them and i could see in the fuse box only on side of the socket was 'live'. @RoyF280 Maybe you could confirm if yours was the same if you're still around here? . So I wired it with the permanent coming off the tow bar connection and the switched running off the 12v socket, in the hope the the battery management sw in the car will kill the 12v supply if the battery runs down and that will switch the camera to park mode (the same as my wifi hotspot in the boot). I've also set the camera to 'high' battery protection (turns off when it dips below 12.4v). It really is one of my bug bears of VAG cars, the fact that it doesn't just kill things properly when you turn the car off! Worst case scenario is either the SD card dies early from constant monitoring or the camera has been switched off by the car when someone hits us parked! At least i now kinda have CCTV in the front of the house when we're home!

All worked fine for me earlier today too. Never had any issues. Thanks @bigade1

Yeah, As far I can see a rear facing one is more important than a front facing one.