Agarner

Hi iv recently been having some trouble starting my 1.8t AUQ recently on cold starts so i hooked it up to vcds and ran some checks and tests and the only thing i found is that the knock sensor voltage readings for each cylinder are all different..also at idle the revs bounce between 800 and 840rpm but on the first start of the day it seems like its misfiring really bad but then spring into life after a short moment.. what are your veiws on these readings? I did save the log but i dont seem to be able to upload it. Any info would be highly apriciated. TIA and have a merry christmas!

Update on the leak Changed waterpump amd timing kit over the weekend... total of 6 hours for my first time wasnt to bad i guess. Anyway as i got to the three bolts holding the water pump on, the top 2 was tight but the lower bolt wasnt even finger tight and coolant was leaking out from the bottom. The seal wasnt great either.....Problem solved

Yeah i do use OEM if i need to replace anything usually its just with people saying aftermarket ones are ok and others saying to aviod...the price of an aftermarket one was tempting but i am considering sticking to OEM for this one

I want to buy a waterpump kit for my 2002 1.8t but coming across different makes of waterpumps using different material for the turbine. Hearing mixed reviews about each one makes it hard to choose which one to buy so my question is. What would you guys prefere or advise to use?

Hi.. i found no65 for sale on ebay for £6995 with 85k on the clock. RHD...if i had a spare 7k i would buy it m.ebay.co.uk/itm/2002-SKODA-OCTAVIA-1-8T-VRS-WRC/1729101

No65 is up for sale on ebay right now for £6995 85k on the clock m.ebay.co.uk/itm/2002-SKODA-OCTAVIA-1-8T-VRS-WRC/1729101

I replaced and upgraded my turbo a few months ago i replaced everything apart from the actuator...bad move as that needed replacing to so....after it was put back in the car i didnt want to go through the whole thing again so i replaced it from the top instead... its awkward as hell to be honest if you have patience it is possible...its held ti the turbo by 3 bolts...if i remember rightly they was 10mm but could be wrong... 1 pipe and also its connected to the wastegate by a threaded bar and the nuts are if i remember rightly they was either 7mm or 8mm...firstly i would take the pipe off the top..then undo the wastegate followed by the 3 bolts then it will come out.. then reverse order for fitting....the hardest part is setting the preload while its in place as you dont have much room...what i did was i coloured 1 edge of the nut so i could see and count how many times it was being turnt...the actuator is "MEANT" to be a 5 turn preload... two nuts on the threaded bar so one is used tk adjust the gate and the other acts as a locking nut... feed the threaded bar through the wastegate connection and then push it untill the wastegate shuts (flap will have no resistance) then spin the nut up to the wastegate conection untill it just touches the connection.....then you tighten that nut 5 full turns and then lock it off with the other nut...sorry its a long one but its hard to explain and since getting a new phone im un able to upload any pictures... hope this helps its not a hard job its just awkward and youll find yourself lying across your engine bay lol

Thanks wino i havent really looked into anything yet but i will check them wires and see if i have disturbed them first thing

Hi guys just wondering if anyone can shine some light on a problem thay i have come across.... basically i replaced the heater matrix last week so i striped the full dash down and replaced the matrix. All went back together with no problems all wiring has been reconnected but once everything was back together again i went to start the car and now have an immobiliser fault.. typical dash light flashing and engine cutting out after 2 seconds...i just find it strange because iv never had an immo problem with this car and since it occurred after the dash removal im wondering if i have done something wrong.. the car battery was disconnected for 4 days as i only had time to fit the matrix after work and with the darker days i couldnt get much done each day.. also all carpet and dampers was removed, dried and cleaned before reinstalling.. if it helps my octavia is 2002. AUQ... i have heard of other people having the same issue after the cluster has beem removed in my case, the cluster was removed and disconnected.. any help at all will be highy appreciated and sorry for the lenghty read lol

I was suspecting it was the water pump but its reallt hard to tell yet, im going to strip it down tomorrow on my day off work to get a better look. And i certainly will do a full replacment. It does look like its leaking from the casting itself and the belt is still on the spindle aswell...the car isnt being used at the moment either due to me replacing the matrix last week. Thats when i noticed some leakage and that casting is the only leak i found....so i wont be driving it untill iv resolved this problem, thanks for the replies!! Im going to look into these pumps to see if they come with a new cast

Hi guys! Just hoping someone can name this part for me as i found it leaking coolant out of a small hole.. picture doesnt show a great deal but i was taking pictures at random to find any leaks and found this....if not i will have to try and find a part number or have a flick through the haynes ..thanks for taking the time to read. Any suggestions are welcome...btw this picture was taken down the side of the timing belt... just under the manifold kind of yellow arrow is suspected hole (hard to tell) Orange loop is coolant leaking