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Solved It's bolt at part 15 It touches the cap , part 3 but there is no entry into it. Needs loosening alot. If you drop it into door and retrieve it can't be put through the hole in the door. Needed.about.3.or 4 rotations to get part 3.out

Hatboy Harvey video deals with barrel lock on driver's side front door. I'm a bit stuck on removing the black cap next to door handle , part 3. I got part 2 cosmetic colour trim off. It is stopping me releasing Bowden cable and rest of window regulator carrier There is a bolt 15. Too large a head to remove from through door hole.i.dont.tji k it is connected? Any ideas appreciated. I don't want to use brute force yet

Routed mic behind top of drivers a pillar trim to the right of the sun visor. Cable jack went down A pillar passed fuse box and under steering wheel trim above pedals and found gap to rear of radio

Hello, I'm after some advice. Any alternatives to rivets? Window regulator repair in progress. The metal plate holding window regulator is riveted on to door. There are X10 7mm holes for metal plate/regulator to door attachment and X4 4mm holes for speakers. Rather than riveting are there any other options? I've seen rivnuts. However a size guide said a 5mm hole needs M3 rivnut not seen any smaller sizes like for 4mm diameter hole. I could probably put speaker on new metal plate with access to rear. Otherx10 holes 7mm hole will be blind/1 side access only. Suggestions appreciated. Camera rotate photo broken - I'm not working on upturned car 😂Thanks Ps Edit - reading around, looks like a few fabias suffering this failure. The motor is ok but the cable snapped in my case near top rear pulley.

I Got a spare cd autochanger that came with leather seats but no use in LE

Got a set of depo off eBay and then are very good, but this was for a fabia MK1 vrs (halogen) around £60 per unit

It's fixed. Useful info Abs sensor electrical connector 6E0973702 Front right wheel Connector unlocks when tab clicked up in one motion rather than squeeze. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0CQTLWH7B/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A3O6ITRM6FC8OR&psc=1 Used 18awg pink crimp connector

Taken off thrower, slight score mark present. The abs sensor has a raised black disc facing driveshaft like for a date mark, that has worn down. Abs sensor works with the wired connector. I think my pinning the electrical wires didn't get them 'fully home' Going for the crimp connectors and silicone and cover wires in heat shrink.

Strip connectors - strictly for diagnosis. I bought some crimp tube connectors in case. ABS Light back on after putting wheel back on and tightening wheel nut. I think new abs sensor is catching on the driveshaft dust cover again. I'll remove dust cover/thrower ring this time. There is something wrong here with this pattern part. A few mm too close to wheel bearing/hub. Stripping it down again...soul destroying. Photo B4 assembling with new thrower ring yesterday. All the teeth were clicked in and as flush as they can be.

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Brakes not binding. Wheel bearing is fine (2nd one, 45k 8 years on,). The original abs wiring connector was broken and becoming loose. It got some silicone to glue it together. I've got abs sensor out, wheel bearing magnetic ring looks fine. I've bought a wired abs connector and one without wiring and pinned the connector myself. Got 'electrical fault on circuit' , previous DTC was 'implausible' - some signal but dropping out. I've done this work with battery disconnected and reconnected cleared dtc codes etc I've removed the wiring and tried the wired connector. I used strip connector temp to check it all working, same error reoccurs. Just realised might be polarity dependent....and .....it is. It works when wires + and - reversed. Abs error gone, data received from front right wheel. Fingers x I'm not revisiting in a couple weeks

Should I leave the plastic dust ring out? I've fitted a 2nd one to the same driveshaft, it is in better condition than other one (teeth to click into driveshaft are all point same way, not warped - other wasn't bad though). The abs sensor is set back a few mm from metal ring of wheel bearing so I would expect any contact. I had to change hub previously, the wheel bearing was changed and the abs sensor (inter brand - not the cheapest one, but middle price). Had to take brake disc, carrier, caliper off and brake shield (luckily I changed this previously so bolts not seized). Having to drill out remains of abs sensor and avoid hitting wheel bearing magnetic ring, last one did come out, this is pinched well and truly. Thanks Alistair

I changed the driver's driveshaft due to split in the boot. Bought the plastic abs sensor ring protector. Had no issues for 3 weeks then ABS sensor intermittently erroring. Looks like the abs ring which was inserted correctly has rubbed the abs sensor. There is a black smudge (from abs sensor) on the plastic ring (may have been warped?) The plastic ring popped off after pulling out driveshaft in photo. Of course the old abs sensor is rust pinned in hole in hub. Been there 8 years. What if it happens again? Driveshaft is Borg beck bds1452 and I did other side with no issues 2 years ago. Opinions? Happened to anyone else? I had Traction Control light on twice but it was coming out roundabout or really wet road, but it felt that front right wheel was to blame.

Ok. I found the 6 speed gear oil G052157A2 (2 litres with postage £110) It was last changed 55k miles and 10 years ago. What mileage or time would you consider interval as worthwhile Pete? Thanks

Thanks I don't mind taking bumper off if everything fits. I changed condenser last summer which needed bumper off. I just hate doing a load of work to find it doesn't fit and then put it back together etc. Do you know if the same electrical connector on that adaptor to the horn is used elsewhere on the car. I could buy adaptor for a few £ and check it fits on a more accessible location like a sensor before bumper off job to do horn?