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I spent a few days on this and did brakes (clean and lube and paint) and also under wheel arches. P40 isopon worked a treat. I only started this to sort a few rust spots due to stone chips which were superficial. Digging around lead to the discovery of rust. When you see bubbling it is too late. The cavity was sound. I've sprayed s50 bolt hamber wax and used the clear wax stuff under wheel arches. The photos show the epoxy spray 2k after chiselling off old paint and then sanding to leave the factory rust proofing, the paint was lose after a sandpaper rub down. Had stone guard grey and then hycote topcoat diamond silver then clear coat. No adverse reactions. The stone guard spray I didn't rate, seems consistency of a primer. The underbody bungs I replaced with aftermarket. There are several sizes 30mm hole along sill x4 each side, but some near exhaust etc. iñ wheel arch the hole is 40mm, see new bungs in photo.

I've read that primer over rust converted rust is a bad idea, unstable surface , but probably better than not doing anything. Hycote diamond silver is a good match but the power red 50b for my astra was nota match. I went to paint shop. The base primer is coloured and gives depth to colour. I've got epoxy primer and going to seal it tomorrow. Should I rub down rest of sill to metal, I'm thinking not because the rust I found is creeping from direction of wheels towards centre of sill. I've found not rusted metal a little further in. Probably best not to disturb

It is regularly washed. I've had rear bumper off 2 years ago to rust proof hidden areas and wheel arches have been off numerous times. No rust. This rust was hidden under the factory paint and stone chip protection. As the sill protection is bubbly in appearance there was no tell tale signs. Discovered entirely accidentally when prepping sill. I bought a couple of Bolt Hamber products recently - Underbody and the clear stuff. 80 hydrate for chassis voids.

Checked my fabia's sills and there is rust creeping under the paint. I had odd rusty bit that turned out to be stone chip and not deep rust. I discovered thearea just ahead of the rear wheel is susceptible to corrosion. There is a fibre/plastic - tar manufacturer rust protection under paint. I used sharpened wood chisel to remove. The metal flaked. A hole has appeared. The rust has progressed under the sill rather than from above from wheel arch. I've previously used etch primer elsewhere, high build, topcoat, clear coat. Not always that durable. I bought stone guard spray paint to protect against stone chips which is why I was prepping sills. I've rubbed rust down to bare metal except some rust in pits of metal. I was going to use rust converter but read it is not compatible with primer. I'm going to use epoxy p40 isopon and some P38 after curing. I'm using epoxy spray primer 2k. I read I can add putty isopon first then the epoxy primer after curing or vice versa, as long as properly cured. The reason I'm looking at epoxy is that it is fully waterproof and stops rust. Can I add stone guard over epoxy primer then top coat 1k then 1k or 2k clearcoat? If not how would you do it? Is this correct? Thanks Front is not too bad, just behind wing - see image. Both sides of car rear end of sill are affected. The paint there looked fine and no bubbling. Since photo taken I've rubbed down rust.

Just to finish off - the rivnuts are a success. I got 304 bolts metric M3 for speakers and M5 for rest of door. Wife took car out and said there is a noise 😔 😭 (me thinking there is a rivet head in void I didn't scoop out which is dancing around...) Turns out it was the box under passenger seat - I'd left licking wheel nut lose... Relief! Reminded me of this advert VW squeaky earring 1990 https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DeKmf0YjZXqo&ved=2ahUKEwixt9yl2qWWAxWvcfEDHZJwK7cQwqsBegQIHBAB&usg=AOvVaw2Zpw6gChTxzSCHhW06QzL0 A tip - had an issue removing the blank next to door handle to release wire to door handle. There is a bolt accessible in edge of door. I'd loosened it, but it didn't look near enough to blank. It is important and must be slackened off alot of turns 6 to 8. If you lose bolt it drops into void. Hat boy Harvey useful video on YouTube. But no write up on passenger door. Also get 10 to 16mm bolt lengths. Any longer risks hitting glass / not necessary. I used silicone bead around neoprene seal.

Solved It's bolt at part 15 It touches the cap , part 3 but there is no entry into it. Needs loosening alot. If you drop it into door and retrieve it can't be put through the hole in the door. Needed.about.3.or 4 rotations to get part 3.out

Hatboy Harvey video deals with barrel lock on driver's side front door. I'm a bit stuck on removing the black cap next to door handle , part 3. I got part 2 cosmetic colour trim off. It is stopping me releasing Bowden cable and rest of window regulator carrier There is a bolt 15. Too large a head to remove from through door hole.i.dont.tji k it is connected? Any ideas appreciated. I don't want to use brute force yet

Routed mic behind top of drivers a pillar trim to the right of the sun visor. Cable jack went down A pillar passed fuse box and under steering wheel trim above pedals and found gap to rear of radio

Hello, I'm after some advice. Any alternatives to rivets? Window regulator repair in progress. The metal plate holding window regulator is riveted on to door. There are X10 7mm holes for metal plate/regulator to door attachment and X4 4mm holes for speakers. Rather than riveting are there any other options? I've seen rivnuts. However a size guide said a 5mm hole needs M3 rivnut not seen any smaller sizes like for 4mm diameter hole. I could probably put speaker on new metal plate with access to rear. Otherx10 holes 7mm hole will be blind/1 side access only. Suggestions appreciated. Camera rotate photo broken - I'm not working on upturned car 😂Thanks Ps Edit - reading around, looks like a few fabias suffering this failure. The motor is ok but the cable snapped in my case near top rear pulley.

I Got a spare cd autochanger that came with leather seats but no use in LE

Got a set of depo off eBay and then are very good, but this was for a fabia MK1 vrs (halogen) around £60 per unit

It's fixed. Useful info Abs sensor electrical connector 6E0973702 Front right wheel Connector unlocks when tab clicked up in one motion rather than squeeze. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0CQTLWH7B/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A3O6ITRM6FC8OR&psc=1 Used 18awg pink crimp connector

Taken off thrower, slight score mark present. The abs sensor has a raised black disc facing driveshaft like for a date mark, that has worn down. Abs sensor works with the wired connector. I think my pinning the electrical wires didn't get them 'fully home' Going for the crimp connectors and silicone and cover wires in heat shrink.

Strip connectors - strictly for diagnosis. I bought some crimp tube connectors in case. ABS Light back on after putting wheel back on and tightening wheel nut. I think new abs sensor is catching on the driveshaft dust cover again. I'll remove dust cover/thrower ring this time. There is something wrong here with this pattern part. A few mm too close to wheel bearing/hub. Stripping it down again...soul destroying. Photo B4 assembling with new thrower ring yesterday. All the teeth were clicked in and as flush as they can be.

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