adokS12

I pulled the belt cover to see the belt and I could see it was broken, yes just sat at the lights and it made a funny noise and cut out. The belt was changed by an independent garage it was changed because the water pump was leaking at 9000 miles!.

I feel a lot better now!.

Hi yet another woe timing belt snapped!, had to get the car brought home with Greenflag, sat in the car at traffic lights and just cut out, tried to start but no go. What will need doing to get it fixed and how much does anyone think it will cost?, car only done 57.000 miles and belt and water pump was changed 3 years ago. 2010 1.6 diesel greenline. Sat here fed up. Thanks.

Ok thank you, if anyone knows if it does need coding and you have vcds and live in the Doncaster area and can help give us a shout. Thanks. If this is not allowed please remove.

Does it really need coding to the car?, I'm sure I have read somewhere where people have changed them and they just work.

Hi Thank you for the reply I have changed the alarm horn for a new one.

Hi Hope everyone is well would this fault code stop my alarm horn working, the alarm horn stopped sounding but it still chirped and now the chirp has stopped changed the horn for a new one and still does not work. Checked the fuse and the wiring appears to be voltage there and other signals if anyone thinks it would stop the alarm horn could you point me in the right direction. There is no warning lights. Octavia mk2 2010 cayc diesel 1.6 greenline. Always something going wrong with it. Thanks. 03020 - Local databus 2: Electrical Fault in Circuit Possible Symptoms Warning lights or messages in Instrument Cluster Feature(s) of vehicle inoperative. Possible Causes Wiring Harness Issue Failed Electronics Possible Solutions Repair Repair Wiring Harness Replace Failed Electronics

Thank you pmdc199 for the info, mine has three bolts as the disc size is 280 mm, i thought it was a special socket for the drive shaft bolt the 24 mill fits ok, ordered a set of triple square spline set, it doesn't look too bad a job i just wanted to make sure i had all the right tools before tackling the job. Cheers.

Hi Hope everyone is well, i have a Mk2 Octavia 2010 CAYC Greenline and i think the front wheel bearing is on it's way out, does anyone know if it's a 3 stud or a 4 stud?, i know i could go and have a look but it's cold out there and i don't fancy rolling about on the floor, Also what is the size of the socket for the bolt holding the drive shaft it's the double spline type and the size for the studs holding the bearing as i will have to buy them. Thank you for your help and stay safe.

Ok well here i am again, hope everyone is well. It seems the car had another fault one i could not figure out. Here's the story, after all the messing about with the car it was doing my ed in, so i took it to a VAG specialist in Sheffield for a diagnosis check. I had the EGR deleted and the DPF done 5 years ago, so after the garage had done the diagnosis they found that exhaust gasses was entering the inlet, apparently the valve on the EGR can come open if not physically blanked off, so the solution was to blank it off they did it not from the EGR but the throttle body where the pipe from the EGR goes to the throttle body. So anyone who has had there EGR deleted make sure it is physically blanked off it may save you a lot of heart ache.

Hi Hope everyone is well, just an update to let you know what was wrong, after fitting a new N75 valve it still did not work, so i did a boost pressure test that was ok then i had the car de-carbonised and that did not work. so out of sheer desperation i got the new MAF changed for another new original MAF and that was it!. As MicMac suggested the NEW one was faulty all that for a faulty new part never mind it's sorted now. Thank you to everyone for your help and stay safe. Steve.

Do you know where the three wires go?, iv'e checked the voltage that was 4.96 volts and what are the three wires i presume that 1 is power 1 is earth and 1 is signal to the ecu which is which, i have tried to find a circuit diagram but not had any luck. There is loads of info about 5 pin MAFs but i have not found any re 3 pin MAFs. Cheers.

Hello it's me again hope you are all well. So i thought it was my fault turns out it wasn't (phew) i have still got the fault still the same, i bought a brand spanking new genuine VAG MAF cost me £150 😪 only to fit it and boom there it goes the same , anyway iv'e ordered a new N75 not N95 valve today going to fit that and try that , i had the car scanned with someone who had VCDS oh and by the way i checked the inter cooler pipes to the best of my ability and did not find any splits. Here is the scan can anybody decipher it and knows what's going on. Thank you Steve. Address 01: Engine (J623-CAYC) Labels:. 03L-906-023-CAY.clb Part No SW: 03L 906 023 AG HW: 03L 906 023 AG Component: 1,6l R4 CR td H23 5697 Revision: -------- Serial number: Coding: 00114016032500080000 Shop #: WSC 73430 031 00999 ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM16TDI02103L906023AG 001003 ROD: EV_ECM16TDI02103L906023A_001.rod VCID: 6BDF9A6E8285F9DECE-803E 1 Fault Found: 7329 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) P0101 00 [096] - Implausible Signal Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Mileage: 81057 km Date: 2020.06.29 Time: 09:41:12 Engine speed: 1367.00 /min Normed load value: 0.0 % Vehicle speed: 69 km/h Coolant temperature: 76 °C Intake air temperature: 19 °C Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 14.231 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 38 Environmental conditions-AMP_ENVD: 996.078 hPa Environmental conditions-Battery voltage: 14.2 V Environmental conditions-FRF_RC: 255 Environmental conditions-MAP_MES_ENVD: 1022.87 hPa Environmental conditions-MAF_KGH_MES_ENVD: 32.1252 mg/stroke Environmental conditions-FAC_MAF_CYL_KGH_RATIO_FIL_ENVD: 1.99 Environmental conditions-ANG_SP_BPA_ENVD: 79.6 % Environmental conditions-ANG_SP_EGRV_ENVD: 0.0 % Environmental conditions-ANG_SP_PORT_ENVD: 14.9 % Environmental conditions-ANG_SP_THR_ENVD: 95.7 % Environmental conditions-SF_ENG_STATE: IS Environmental conditions-Ambient temperature: 13.50 °C Readiness: 1000 0000

Ok well i hold my hands up, it was all my fault, it was the air filter i had a k&n filter in the car and last year decided to clean it i bought the proper k&n cleaning kit with the oil dispenser. I must have put too much oil on it (but didn't think i had) but that was six months ago with too much oil on it it got clogged and the MAF did not like it, i changed it for a Bosch paper filter and the car is fine now done a 150 mile round trip today and not a problem. Needless to say i won't be going back to the k&n.

Thanks for the replies i did replace the MAF with a genuine one albeit from a breakers yard it was very clean, i have a friend that owns a car spares shop he got me a Hella MAF and that defiantly did not work the car was un drive-able.

Sorry forgot to mention if i drive the car with the MAF disconnected it drives ok.

Thank you for your suggestions, this morning took off the MAP sensor off to clean it it was oily but not dirty cleaned it went for a run and it's still the same, checked the wiring the car has only done 50.000 miles. So re turbo actuator sticking and the N95 valve what do i do to un stick it and where is the valve?. i have done a search but came up with nothing. The only other thing is if anyone with VCDS in the Doncaster area can do a scan for me as i only have Carista. It came up with a fault with the glow plug light flashing but when i scanned it it showed nothing. it's really frustrating things were a lot simpler 40 years ago when i was a motor mechanic ruddy modern cars lol. Thanks.

Any more thoughts as to the problem i have?, the car finally came up with a fault code P0101 maf circuit i changed the maf but the fault is still there. How it starts is like this if i am doing about 30 mph in 4th gear put the car into 5th gear put my foot down and then the car starts juddering and won't pull with smoke out if the exhaust if i change gear to 2nd let the engine revs go high it suddenly shoots forward and is ok, if i keep the engine revs high it does not do it and please don't say just keep the revs high its the same if i'm in 3rd gear with low engine revs and change to 4th put foot down and starts juddering again and same as before drop a gear or two get high engine revs and it shoots forward and is ok again, but it does not do that all the time. some times it's ok. Thanks.

Hi I have a 1.6 Octavia diesel greenline 2010 , the problem i have is that every so often the car starts to be really hesitant won't accelerate jumping about like a kangaroo with blue smoke out of the exhaust, it does not come up with any faults like engine management lights etc and iv'e scanned it and no faults logged. If i blip the accelerator some times it clears and then it's ok or if i switch the engine off and re start it's ok, then it can go for miles before it does it again. Any ideas i'm hoping it will just go away, (knowing me not much chance of that lol) all the filters have been changed in the last three months inc engine oil etc, it started doing it about four days ago. It's CAYC engine. Thank you. Steve.