Musescu_A

Yes, without touching the bearings. But only when I was tightening the pulley it was seizing up.

I had the same issue when I changed my timing chain. You don't need to place a washer there. All you need to do is to put oil on those surfaces as you assemble the engine. Afterwards when you tighten the bolt, the engine should move a bit more freely. Remember not to turn the engine too much without oil in it, though as you might end up seizing it, or if you do, put some oil through the distributor hole in order to get oil on those surfaces.

So if I go dirrectly to pin 13 on the PCB I can give it a square signal and it will make the tacho go?

I've been running on E10 for a year and a half and didn't have any issues after a rebuilt carburetor. That's on a 1.3 carb engine

Can anyone please explain to me how the tachometer on the 1.3 carburetor engine works? I want to run a standalone ECU for the ignition and keep the original tachometer, but I don't know what kind of signal I should give it. I have specialised tools like multimeters and an osciloscope. The only thing I can assume at the moment is that it gets a spike voltage from the primary coil winding once every 1/2 engine rotations.

The rear fog light doesn't light up unless you turn on the low beam or the front fog lamps and the buzzer keeps on going everytime you have the rear fog light button pushed in, therefor you cannot the see the light on the dashboard. So push the rear fog light button again and you should be good.

Alarm doesn't change anything, same happens when I disconnect the radio entirely. I was unable to get a good battery for a test but I think that may be the issue because it's charging too slowly. The charging current at 2000 RPM is around 1.3 A, it dropped a lot since last time I checked it. What I didn't test was the green wire (D+) that goes from the alternator to the dashboard pin but I had to put my dashboard back up because I need to get new plates and I need the car. In the nearest future I will get a new battery and come back here to tell you the results. I'll also try and get my hands on an osciloscope to check the output of the alternator.

I was told it was changed last year. About cleaning, I have no idea how to do it so I think I'll just order a new one.

I know.....he was either lying about the problem or he really was that short minded at the time... I will try tonight. Do you know what would actually happen if i disconnected the alternator fully?

I opened the R7 relay and saw that it was operating normally. My lights and fan get turned off when the engine cranks. Also when I put my ignition on the R7 relay clicks once. The clicking that appears when the dashboard comes alive is from the aftermarket alarm unit. That's why I heard it above the actual fuse box. This thing in the picture below. Problem is that when I disconnect all the connectors from the unit the issue is still there. I still have to rev the engine for the dash to start working. It's all a mess in there with soldered wires, all with different colours from the factory setup (like in the diagram I sent earlier). I hate the hell out of that alarm (I even cut out the siren) but I am not able to remove it because all my locks are messed up because apparently the owner locked the keys inside and tried breaking the locks, eventually ending up breaking all of them (trunk and both doors). I found an old thread that showed the same problems that I have. And in the diagram posted there the lights from the oil, battery and parking brake share the same ground point. And if you look at the first video I posted you can see that the fuel reserve light dims when the parking brake light comes on (P).

Also I found this mind-boggling diagram with what I believe it is, the entire car electrical component. I might have a weak ground where that 8V voltage regulator on the dashboard is.

Same thing happens to me. Dashboard is dead but mine comes back alive when I rev the engine to about 3000 RPM. There's a discussion going on this thread here:

I found this picture around the forums and I realised that I have no cable in 30B. Could that be the issue?

Done, the connector was clean but I still sprayed it down with WD40 and wiped it. Then I sprayed some white grease inside the connector and put it back in. Nothing changed, same simptoms. I took out the R7 relay and tried starting the car without it. The problem persisted.

Yes, that's what I mean. I'm sorry I didn't phrase it correctly. I thought the car has a separated relay that operates when the ignition is turned on to give power to the coil, dashboard lights, wipers, etc. But I've just realised that there's no point in having 2 relays on the same power circuit. I'll measure the resistance between the yellow wire and ground to see if that's the issue. Also, should I take out the ignition block and measure its terminals?