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Gog_32

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  1. I've just had the timing belt replaced on my wife's Citigo ( 2013 model with 36,000 miles ) and asked my local independent garage for the bits that they took off. I had inspected it a few weeks ago and it looked perfect - no gaps between belt and pulley teeth and no fraying, etc. The work was done as the car was 10 years old and local Skoda dealers recommended every 5 years, independent of mileage (which is a bit odd) I knew they were original parts because we bought it at one year old with 16,000 miles (an ex-hire company car) The original belt was in excellent condition - no visible wear on the teeth (tested by pressing the belt onto itself so the teeth engaged with each other) or signs of fraying. splitting, etc. I recall my old faithful VW Passat B2 1.8 litre showed small gaps between pulley and belt teeth - but that was at 175,000 miles and umpteen cambelt changes. The tensioner and idler pulleys were also in fine fettle - not loose, rough or rattly - just smooth with a slight tightness to indicate that the bearings were largely unworn and lubricated. The charge was £454, of which £180 was labour - a lot of money for something I used to do myself, but I suppose that is the cost for peace of mind ?
  2. Thanks for the tip - I'll check it out
  3. Hello All , I'm looking for a guide to carrying out maintenance / repairs to my 2013 Citigo. I already have a copy of the " Maintenance Citigo 2012 ➤ Edition 08.2016" from this site, which is very helpful, but it splits functions into 'checks' (no pun intended) and 'repairs'. For example - it describes how to check brake disc & drum wear but then describes drum removal as a repair and implies it is in a different document. I should be grateful for any helpful suggestions or links to download. Regards.
  4. Wino, thanks for that. Pollen filter is well maintained and clean. Regards, Brian
  5. David, Thanks for the info - I'll bear it in mind, but hope it's not required ! Brian
  6. For anyone interested in this procedure, please see my reply to my other post, dated 16th January
  7. Update - I've now unlocked the mystery and hope the following will help others (if it reads like a Haynes manual it's probably because I've used so many over the years I can't get out of the habit). 1. Unclip gear lever gaiter to expose clip on gear lever shaft. Loosen and remove this with pliers/screwdriver - replace on reassembly with a Jubilee clip or equivalent. Remove gear lever knob - straight pull up. 2. Operate bonnet release lever and remove plastic U-shaped clip from forward edge of lever ( use a mirror and torch to locate) to remove lever. Remove plastic rivet fastener near lever. 3. Unclip door reveal scuff trim by front passenger seat to allow removal of trim near front bottom corner of door pillar (this surrounds the bonnet release lever mounting bracket) 4. The centre console has a large inverted U-shaped moulding around it on the fascia panel which can be removed by unclipping to reveal 2 self-tapping screws securing upper part of centre console. Two other screws can be found near the base of the gear lever. 5 The centre console can then be moved rearwards to reveal 3 screws near its upper edge which secure the righthand side of the glove box assembly. Note: the centre console cannot be completely removed as it is trapped by the gear lever and handbrake lever. 6. Unclip the cover on the extreme lefthand side of the dash panel to reveal 2 screws securing that side of the glove box. 7. Empty the glovebox to reduce weight before removing 3 screws from along its inner upper edge. 8.Remove the above left- and right-hand side screws of the glovebox and it should come away easily. 9. The heater fan motor resistor pack that I needed to access is secured by 2 self-tapping screws to the air ducting between the fan motor and the pollen filter housing and the wiring loom has a 4-wire plug which can be unclipped from it. The faulty heater resistor had a disconnection on the unit bridging the two outer connector pins - may be some sort of thermal fuse/safety cut-out and looks difficult to solder a replacement into circuit, even if I could get one, as the original is welded to the resistors. The Skoda part number for the resistor pack on my 2013 Citigo 1.0 60PS is 1SO959263A, currently priced at £46 ! The same part number appears to be used in VW UPs also. I bought one from a breaker on eBay at a very reasonable £15, incl P/P, so it's fingers crossed it lasts a bit longer than the original. 1SO959263A
  8. I need to remove the glove box and dashboard assembly of a 2013 Citigo to access the heater fan. The fan only runs on the fastest speed (4) so it looks like the motor resistor pack is faulty. The glovebox seems to be part of the dash panel, extending to the lefthand side of the steering column, with no obvious fixings visible. Any guidance would be appreciated. Thanks
  9. I need to remove the glove box and dashboard assembly of a 2013 Citigo to access the heater fan. The fan only runs on the fastest speed (4) so it looks like the motor resistor pack is faulty. The glovebox seems to be part of the dash panel, extending to the lefthand side of the steering column, with no obvious fixings visible. Any guidance would be appreciated. Thanks
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