matej2212

Oh okay, so I guess it is okay to show 1.5V when the throttle body plug isn't connected. So my problem probably lies somewhere else.

Ok, I'm really fed up with this. Problem came back. It gets better every time I change something, but returns after a few days. I tested the throttle body again with your (Ricardo's) guide, and found out that the voltages between pins 5-6 and 6-7 are around 1.5V, not 5V like you said they should be. I tested all the wiring and it's ok, so I guess I need a new ECU. Now I just want to ask if you are sure that the voltage between pins 5-6 and 6-7 should be 5V? I don't doubt your knowledge, just want to make sure. Since your picture says "Simos 2P engine management" I am adding the picture for magnetti marelli ecu. The throttle body diagram is the same, so I just followed your directions for your picture and then looked for the right pin numbers on my picture (so if you said voltage between 5-6 and 6-7 should be 5V, I checked voltage between 5-4 and 4-8 according to my picture which is for magnetti marelli ecu)

Ok, its definitely an ignition issue. I had an aftermarket distributor cap on the car, now I put on the old original (bosch) distributor cap and the car doesnt hesitate anymore. So I guess the aftermarket cap was somehow crap. But the bosch one still gets dirty after cleaning and driving a couple of minutes. Well I'll try to change the spark plugs and wires because they have never been changed anyway and then leave it. At least until the next problem appears.😅 Thanks!

Also the same symptoms were present the first time the coil was bad (although the car wasnt jerking as much). But it would be strange if the coil only lasted 10.000 kilometres.

Ok, thanks for your effort. Is there a way to test or to rule out the ignition issue first? Because I dont have a fuel pressure gauge and it would be easier to diagnose as much as I can myself, before taking it to a mechanic. I also noticed that the distributor cap contacts become dirty (they have grey/black residue which I have to sand down) after couple minutes of driving, is that normal or does it indicate something?

Here it is. I hope it helps, beacuse it is a little hard to see because I dont have a tachometer. But you can hear and see the car jerking and hesitating.

Checked the wiring again, replaced the number 1 fuel injector but the stuttering remains, the car still stutters when pressing more than 1/3 on gas pedal. What else could be wrong or what else should I check?

Okay, stupid question. Which cylinder is number 1?😅

I already tested the wiring before and I also tested the injector resistance which was 15 ohms, so I thought it is OK. Can the injector still trip a code if its resistance is OK?

No new codes, only the 01249 "fuel injector for cylinder 1 open or short to ground" that was present before.

Tried it but it didn't help. Even reset the throttle body but with no success.

Idling problem fixed! Changed the MAP sensor and the problem didnt come back! But another problem appeared🤦‍♂️the car accelerates fine if I accelerate slowly, but if I floor it at any rpm it starts stuttering or kangarooing. Seems like a problem with fuel or spark. Spark plugs seem fine, i checked resistance of spark plug wires and it is within spec and the coil was replaced couple of thousand kilometres ago (i hope it didnt go bad so soon). What should I check first or what are the most common causes?

Ok, I smoked checked the intake (with a cigarette) and there were no obvious leaks that I could spot. Is it normal then that the sensor is a little bit shiny? When i clean it, it doesnt look shiny, but after one ride it does. I guess that could be just remaining oil droplets which accumulated on the inner side of the intake? I will try to replace the sensor either way and report back.

Thanks, I appreciate your effort because I know I am probably getting on your nerves already, but I really cant find the problem. I will try a smoke test and see if anything stands out. I also checked distributor cap and rotor and they were dirty, I cleaned them, and after one ride they were dirty again (grey marks which were difficult to remove). Can this also cause the stalling when pressing the clutch and rpms going up and down?

I took it to a mechanic which said that MAP sensor is probably "too slow" so the idle goes up and down and the car stalls when pressing the clutch at low revs. I ordered a new sensor but I want to know how can oil be getting on the MAP since i've been running the car with breather hose disconnected and intake hole plugged. I know you said it isn't a problem from looking at my picture, but I just dont want the oil to faul my new MAP.