matej2212

Oh okay, so I guess it is okay to show 1.5V when the throttle body plug isn't connected. So my problem probably lies somewhere else.

Ok, I'm really fed up with this. Problem came back. It gets better every time I change something, but returns after a few days. I tested the throttle body again with your (Ricardo's) guide, and found out that the voltages between pins 5-6 and 6-7 are around 1.5V, not 5V like you said they should be. I tested all the wiring and it's ok, so I guess I need a new ECU. Now I just want to ask if you are sure that the voltage between pins 5-6 and 6-7 should be 5V? I don't doubt your knowledge, just want to make sure. Since your picture says "Simos 2P engine management" I am adding the picture for magnetti marelli ecu. The throttle body diagram is the same, so I just followed your directions for your picture and then looked for the right pin numbers on my picture (so if you said voltage between 5-6 and 6-7 should be 5V, I checked voltage between 5-4 and 4-8 according to my picture which is for magnetti marelli ecu)

Ok, its definitely an ignition issue. I had an aftermarket distributor cap on the car, now I put on the old original (bosch) distributor cap and the car doesnt hesitate anymore. So I guess the aftermarket cap was somehow crap. But the bosch one still gets dirty after cleaning and driving a couple of minutes. Well I'll try to change the spark plugs and wires because they have never been changed anyway and then leave it. At least until the next problem appears.😅 Thanks!

Also the same symptoms were present the first time the coil was bad (although the car wasnt jerking as much). But it would be strange if the coil only lasted 10.000 kilometres.

Ok, thanks for your effort. Is there a way to test or to rule out the ignition issue first? Because I dont have a fuel pressure gauge and it would be easier to diagnose as much as I can myself, before taking it to a mechanic. I also noticed that the distributor cap contacts become dirty (they have grey/black residue which I have to sand down) after couple minutes of driving, is that normal or does it indicate something?

Here it is. I hope it helps, beacuse it is a little hard to see because I dont have a tachometer. But you can hear and see the car jerking and hesitating.

Checked the wiring again, replaced the number 1 fuel injector but the stuttering remains, the car still stutters when pressing more than 1/3 on gas pedal. What else could be wrong or what else should I check?

Okay, stupid question. Which cylinder is number 1?😅

I already tested the wiring before and I also tested the injector resistance which was 15 ohms, so I thought it is OK. Can the injector still trip a code if its resistance is OK?

No new codes, only the 01249 "fuel injector for cylinder 1 open or short to ground" that was present before.

Tried it but it didn't help. Even reset the throttle body but with no success.

Idling problem fixed! Changed the MAP sensor and the problem didnt come back! But another problem appeared🤦‍♂️the car accelerates fine if I accelerate slowly, but if I floor it at any rpm it starts stuttering or kangarooing. Seems like a problem with fuel or spark. Spark plugs seem fine, i checked resistance of spark plug wires and it is within spec and the coil was replaced couple of thousand kilometres ago (i hope it didnt go bad so soon). What should I check first or what are the most common causes?

I have a 1997 felicia 1.6 which idles roughly and almost dies when i press the clutch at lower rpms. I had a 01249 code for fuel injector 1 open or short to ground. My temp gauge wasnt working so I thought that code is because the engine is running rich because of faulty coolant temperature sensor. So i replaced the CTS and now the gauge works and stays in the middle. I also cleared the code and cleaned and reset the throttle body with vag com. The problem with rough idling and stalling came back after around 15 kilometres. I also looked if the computer is receiving the right temperature value from CTS and noticed that in vag com the air intake temp was actually showing the coolant temp and the coolant temp was showing 27 degrees which i think is air intake temp probably (you can see in attached photo that the values are switched). The car was warm and the screenshot was taken while driving so thats why the rpms are on 2000. How is it possible that the values are switched or is that normal? Also when I have the ignition on with engine off, there is a whining noise coming from the throttle body. The gas pedal cable has freeplay so that isnt the problem. Is it posibble that the throttle body is also faulty? The car otherwise runs fine. Sorry for the long post and thanks for the help!