gicu

That's interesting. I thought it may be the case. According to mot history, first owner made 80k miles in first 3 years... Well...driver's seat is bit worn. But all passenger ones are like "new". Especially on the back of the car. Literally look brand new.

Purchased with 136000 miles and had almost full DPF. Constant regenerations etc. So I decided to take care of it. DPF out, new oil with ceratec. New glow plugs etc etc. Couple new sensors. If that was me who drive the car before DPF would still be OK. Doing 12 miles one way to my workplace x2. I had previous Superb 2013 and it was totally fine with all DPF etc. Never had any issues, same as you. So yeah. Not very lucky when purchased this one.

My garage advised me to do this so I don't waste money on cleaning it few times £300 plus ultimately replacement £1000+labour on the end.

They checked it right away. Using the fumes analyzer you mentioned. Also there's no smoke coming out when idling or revving but only after some aggressive acceleration while driving. I saw the cars that emit **** load of smoke and they keep passing MOT so there's no reason to be worried at all as I said before... fail threshold is really high and engine needs to be really destroyed to fail it.

Yes. All internals out. Shell is in place.

Indeed. I have disabled start stop permanently anyways.

Alright. Will try that! Thanks a lot.

I already checked these. Won't fail as DPF is present. And the check is only by a "torch". Emissions are still way below the fail threshold.

Yes, I will ask them to fix the ECU map then. This was also suspicious for me. They refuse this as a source of the problem but will force them to look into it as it occurred directly after the process mentioned... Regarding the legality of DPF removal... - Looking at the thousands of electric cars burning worldwide, - how poluttant are battery factories, - disposing perfectly good cars because of silly Ulez, - Regenerating DPF with tons of chemicals once in a while - Producing new and disposing old used DPF... Everything is contributing to false Eco world so I couldn't care less about legality of DPF removal.

I can also add that sometimes I can see the headlights are flickering while driving. I would suspect grounding issue but once heavy load is applied like heated seats, voltage and rpms seem to be stable. Keeps nice and steady 14. 5v constantly. As soon as I switch off electrical load, and engine is hot, it drops to 12.9v and rpms starts to float.

Hello, I'm reaching out for some assistance with a perplexing issue I'm experiencing with my 2016 Skoda Superb 2.0 TDI SE L (engine code CRLB). I've been dealing with engine RPM and voltage fluctuations that have been challenging to diagnose and resolve. **Description of the Problem:** - The problem occurs rather regularly and is characterized by constant up and down fluctuations in engine RPM when engine is hot. - Voltage behavior is also a concern. It briefly shows 14.5V before dropping to 12.9v straight after engine start. - after starting the engine it keeps voltage on lvl. 13.1v but it's steady below 60 degrees - The issue is particularly noticeable once the engine reaches around 60 degrees Celsius. - The fluctuations persist and the voltage continuously varies after the engine reaches this temperature threshold. - engine goes stable (fluctuating a lot less) when additional electrical load is applied. Like heated seats. Voltage jumps to 14.5v and seems to be stable. As soon as electrical load is off, drops to 12.9v and start fluctuating constantly. **Modifications and Recent Maintenance:** - I've replaced the battery, which was a factory-fitted 7-year-old unit. For new Yuasa Start stop EFB battery (coded in). - The alternator and voltage regulator have been replaced (Lukas) - removed the DPF and EGR systems, including an ECU remap. But ECU still seeing oil ash on 68.8grams, differential pressure sensors are not readible anymore **Additional Information:** - There are no parasitic drains on the battery when car is parked. Battery keeps the charge and not going down. - The battery tested as "good as new." - Intermittent fault code U1406 static current too high. - I've installed a brand new oxygen sensor. - All glow plugs have been replaced. - All injectors seem to be functioning well, with most maintaining close to 0mg per stroke. The one on cylinder 2 shows variations around 2mg per stroke when idling but falls to close to 0mg per stroke while driving. I'm hoping the experienced members of this forum can provide some insights or guidance on what might be causing these fluctuations and how to resolve them. Your input is highly appreciated, especially if you've encountered a similar issue or have expertise in diagnosing these kinds of problems. Thank you in advance for your help!

My beauty 2.0 TDI SE L Executive 2016.

Going to garage today to find out what's wrong with the earthing strap to fix it. But I'll leave the extra cable in place just to make sure it's working.

Fixed my charging. Used new, extra 170A cable. One side fixed to frame where a rubber bush for the plastic lid is (see picture) and another end straight to battery. Charging from 13.2v jumped to 14.5v. With full load 14.1v. Brilliant. Love you guys.

Hello! May I know on what cable you purchased and where exactly you bolted this in? Thanks